Your angles look ok. Do you know what bumpsteer is? Riding on the highway and hitting cracks and holes that make your axle,tires, and steering wheel shake is not bumpsteer so let's not get that confused. Go flex your vehicle on big rocks or dirt mounds. If your steering wheel jerks or steers itself when you are flexing then you have bumpsteer. If you are getting a rough shake, rattle, and steering feedback, it's mostly due to your control arm angles. The road feedback goes straight up into the chassis instead of being absorbed by the springs and shocks. Don't confuse this with death wobble. Death wobble is when your tires starting shaking back and forth and you have to stop or slow down to get them back into control.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vwiv23dLhMY
Are your tires doing that? if not, it's not death wobble.
You should be able to twist both draglink and tie rod up and down because heims allow that movement. You should not, however, have play side to side or clunking. Try to get someone to steer back and forth while you look at each heim and joint for play or clunking. Just put your hand on the bar and you'll feel it if its' there. I never really liked running heims on steering because they eventually develop slop and clunk, causing shakes and stuff.
It would also be wise to check your toe in and do an alignment, even if the tires look striaght and true. a 1/8" toe out looks very much like a 1/8" toe in so it's hard to tell visually if your alignment is in spec.
Last, Expect a crappy bumpy ride with that much lift on short arms. 4.5" is the maximum amount of lift you'd want to run on short arms. Your suspension geometry is off and that throws off alot of other things. Drops brackets as you said you are working on, or long arms would be a very wise upgrade to get things back close to specs and proper working order. It wouldn't hurt to check your bearings too. Running oversized tires can wear down your bearings fast and slop in them will cause alot of bad shakes and shimmies.
