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6in Lift, what tires

You guys are really awsome. I have been to tons of forums and this is probly one of the most helpful ones i have been to. THanks alot guys
 
ZachMan said:
4.25 is fine, atleats with trimmed fenders. I don't scub anywhere and I have to u-turn everyday going to work.

CROK plates and JKS steering brace is a strong combo.

Not many people will suggest a drop pitman arm, usually more harm than good.


4.25'' is more than 4''. I said I wouldn't get less than 4''.

Who is it you know that doesn't reccomend a drop pitman arm? The manufacturer of the lift sure as hell recomends it.

That is a very good steering brace setup though.
 
Dirt said:
4.25'' is more than 4''. I said I wouldn't get less than 4''.

Who is it you know that doesn't reccomend a drop pitman arm? The manufacturer of the lift sure as hell recomends it.

That is a very good steering brace setup though.

I am lost, by "less" I thought you meant you wouldn't have a wheel that stuck out less than 4" of backspacing, which 4.25 would mean it sticks out less AND the reason I though that is bacuae 4.25 is the very maximum backspacing you can run with a 12.50 tire and not rub. Alot of people run 4" or 3.75", but I used what I got and it looks great with no fenders.

Who do I know? tons of people, try searching on here. Once you get to the point you need a drop pitman arm most go high steer. I know at 6'' of lift the stock pitman arm is fine. The drop version usually adds to bumpsteer and other thing of that nature.

I'm liking it alot.
 
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Lower # for backspacing equals tire sticking furture out. Basically if you picture the inside edge of the rim to the mounting surface you get back spacing. The closer those sufaces (lower number), the farther out your tire will be. Clear as mud.....hahahhahah

good luck and I went with TNT and RE 5.5, still in peices though......
 
This is probly a stupid question but for some reason i feel the urge to ask( my sargent always said the only stupid question is the one you dont ask). But i was looking at the kid and i noticed it doesnt have shocks in it. Im guessing that i dont need shocks at 5.5" on a RE LA. Just want to make sure while i am priceing everything out. Thanks guys.
 
You need shocks, I ran my XJ for a few miles with out rear shocks on it in order to get it to a friends house who was welding on shock perches for me. I would have to describe it as having the ride of a covered wagon crossing the old west, assuming of course that covered wagons could do 50 mph. Speed bumps where particularly interesting, even though I was barely crawling as I went over them. Got the shocks put on and the ride home was MUCH better.

So yes you will need shocks, I just put RE shocks on when I did my 5.5" lift.
 
I'm in the same boat, bought an 01 (oops) ordered a RE5.5 short arm (6200?) and a set of 33's. It's not here yet so I can't give lift advice, but go through PORC, they were the cheapest around. Got my lift for $1400 shipped including adjustable lowers and PORC brand shocks. RE prices don't include shipping or shocks or the upgrade.
 
Mudcherokee said:

Yeah it is!!! ;)

WhiteKnuckle_Matt.jpg
 
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