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I'm a big fan of Rubicon Express. I'd go with the 5.5" lift kit and a fresh set of 33"x10.5" BFG mud terrains. That way you'll have a rig with a good combination of awesome articulation and good sized tires that will stuff nicely.
Yes you need the same gear ratio front and rear.
Yes you WILL need a SYE and rear DS.
Yes you want longarms (I'm at 6" with short arms and it's a lil rough, a long or mid arm setup is in my future!)
Yes you no NOT want a 00-01.
If you go with 4.88s, you will need to swap the rear axle. The D35 is NOT strong enough for 35s, and the Chrysler 8.25 can only go to 4.56s. These are the only rear axles available in the late model XJs. If you can find a D44 from an older XJ (late 80s) it is more or less a direct swap though.
Get a 1999, I had a 2000 and now have a '99. Its the most desirable XJ because the stronger and better angles HP d30 and there are none of the issues with the 4.0L like the 00-01.
I just finished installing the complete TNT LA lift. The only problem I had with it was welding on the U-bolt eliminators. But I just used it as an excuse to upgrade my rear axle at the same time and had a friend from my local club weld them onto a Dana 44 I found of craigs list. Other then that I'm running with 33x10.5 tires and it works great. I've taken it out on the last two weekend and suprised a couple TJ people with how well it works.
I went 4.88 on the new axle and with 33" tires it really works well. My RPMs only run about 2500 at 65 MPH and power is plentiful.
Guys you have been so much help. I think with all this info i will be to choose the right stuff for me. You guys have been so helpful. Thank you all so much. You guys are great
One more thing. Last Question I promise. I was looking threw Cardomain and i saw this bad ass looking 99 XJ. He has the procomp Rock Crawler wheels i think in 15x8. On his site it doesnt say what kind of back spacing he has. So i thought i would ask you guys and see if you knew by looking at them.
I'd guess 4"???
I'm running 3.75" 15X8 Rock Crawlers and have had no problems with balljoints and hubs. I like the wider stance, the wider the more stable. However if you go too far you will run into hub and joint problems.
BTW I'm at 6" with 33X12.50s, no rubbing, but I've trimmed alot.
I did drive this as my DD for about 1.5 years with a 1 hour commute to work, but now it's mostly for the trails.
Well i pretty much am going to go with a RE 5.5 Long Arm
With BFG Mud Terrain 33x12.50x15 (had them on my Jeep J20, Loved them)
Not sure on the rim back spacing yet got to see what people say
Going to get some bushwackers FenderFlares (like in the pic)
ARB Lockers in the Front and Rear.
oh yea and def getting a 99
Hopefully the steering will be fine with 33's
and a hole bunch of other stuff you guys probly dont want to hear
I have been reading post where people have been saying with 33's and a 4.5 in lift you need to trim ALOT!
Well i pretty much am going to go with a RE 5.5 Long Arm
With BFG Mud Terrain 33x12.50x15 (had them on my Jeep J20, Loved them)
Not sure on the rim back spacing yet got to see what people say
Going to get some bushwackers FenderFlares (like in the pic)
ARB Lockers in the Front and Rear.
oh yea and def getting a 99
Hopefully the steering will be fine with 33's
and a hole bunch of other stuff you guys probly dont want to hear
I have been reading post where people have been saying with 33's and a 4.5 in lift you need to trim ALOT!
Huh? you can run 35s with trimming on the 4.5", not sure what alot is. This is mine (RE 4.5", actual 5.5" front/6" rear and 33s) and to tell you the truth after doing my rear my 33s look like 31s.
As for steering I use CROK plates and JKS seering box stiffiner.
Guys thanks for the advice. Keep it coming. Everyday i am writing down more stuff. Its crazy all the info you guys have gaven me. I would say this is the last question i am going to ask but i wont lie i am not sure LOL. Ok i have been reading TONS of old post and i keep seeing AXLE SHIMS over and over. Now shiming your axle is that something you have to do no matter what. For some strang reason i thought if you get a SYE and a custom axle from Tom woods or high angle drive line or somebody that i wouldnt need to shim the rear axle. You guys are all a great help. I am still a newbie so if i say stuff that is incorrect i am sorry. Im still taking everything in. Thanks Alot guys keep up the good work and keep the info coming
Guys thanks for the advice. Keep it coming. Everyday i am writing down more stuff. Its crazy all the info you guys have gaven me. I would say this is the last question i am going to ask but i wont lie i am not sure LOL. Ok i have been reading TONS of old post and i keep seeing AXLE SHIMS over and over. Now shiming your axle is that something you have to do no matter what. For some strang reason i thought if you get a SYE and a custom axle from Tom woods or high angle drive line or somebody that i wouldnt need to shim the rear axle. You guys are all a great help. I am still a newbie so if i say stuff that is incorrect i am sorry. Im still taking everything in. Thanks Alot guys keep up the good work and keep the info coming
You need to shim because of changing the driveshaft style.
Without a CV joint you want the T-case output and the pinion to be paralell.
With a CV you want the driveshaft to point directly at the pinion.
U-joints have a oval pattern when operating at an angle, CVs don't. Without a CV the oval patterns need to "cancel" each other out.
If you don't set the pinion correct with a CV, you will get an oval rotation at the pinion joint only, threrfore causing vibes.
