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XJ radiators, a review.

Its a degreaser. Was suggested to help get rid of the build of chemicals id been flushing with and the shop.

No suposebly doesn't bubble.

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
 
NOTNSUV said:
Cascade dish washer soap is another option I hear works.
Click to expand...

I finally have the water running clean. I flushed after the Blue Devil Complete. It came out a bit black one water flush after. I decided to use up the 1 gal of Vinegar I had. It was tinged a bit brown. I needed to pick up an oil filter for the MB 240D. While at the Import Parts Store, I asked about radiator cleaners. One guy there said, "you're going to think this is stupid, but Cascade Dish washing soap". The Dishwashing machine type since it doesn't foam up. Yes, I bought some, and ran it using distilled water. Then I used the Prestone Flush kit to flsuh water through the system. It didn't take much time for the water to run clear. I flushed with distilled water twice. Then filled with Z05.
I used the granular or old type of Cascade. I asked one of my neighbors and he uses the 'pods' type to clean his clothes washer.
So, I'd probably try a bottle of the Prestone to clean the system or Cascade. Then flush it with tap water. Depends where you live. My tap water is at 23, 7 is neutral and 14 is considered hard. Then try either Evaporust or Blue Devil Complete is rusty. Depends on $ and time. The Evaporust cost about $20 and you can run it for 3 days. The Blue Devil Complete cost $10 and don't leave it in more than 4 hours. Then I might hit it again with Cascade. Flush at least once with Distilled water after you get the water to run clear.
 
hamptonxj said:
Anyone have any experience with Radiator Express’ WIDE TUBE, PERFORMANCE 2 row aluminum radiator?
Click to expand...

It's a "cold-case" same as the Summit sells.
 
My motor decided to give out on my in my 2000 Xj so I was able to get my hands on a 2000 Wj 4.0 motor. I bought the brown dogs motor mount conversion kit. I’m using my Xj radiator with motor. Does anyone know what bottom radiator I need to use or where to buy one that I need?
 
I saw that but I did not read the Application Notes paragraph at the bottom.
So with you calling them and getting the right brackets you can put a WJ 4.0 into an XJ?
I am only curious cause if you read what motors will interchange the WJ is on the no list.
But good to know that is not entirely correct.
 
Yeah I bought the 2000 Wj 4.0 without paying any attention. Brown dog is the only people that offer the conversion kit. I called them and they said they put in the customer notes that it’s a Wj motor going into an Xj. The wait because of COVID wasn’t my favorite but I did get them and they are very well made product .
 
stickandrudder said:
Oh and I was having some particles that the magnet on the drain plug was picking up too. When I read Cal’s blockage problems that’s what tipped me off to maybe it was blocked.
Click to expand...

Thanks for sharing your experience. It's good to know where are more of us out there. I'll have to try the spectre radiator to see how it performs.
 
womp womp

overheat.jpg


The $40 wonder from amazon (Spectra) failed to contend against 6 degree climbs in 105 degree heat. Time for something better..


Gonna try out the Cold Case 2 row aluminum XJ radiator, and a stand alone derale trans cooler with 2 5" electric fans not in front of the radiator.

Updates later when parts arrive.
 
cal said:
womp womp

...

The $40 wonder from amazon (Spectra) failed to contend against 6 degree climbs in 105 degree heat. Time for something better..

Gonna try out the Cold Case 2 row aluminum XJ radiator, and a stand alone derale trans cooler with 2 5" electric fans not in front of the radiator.

Updates later when parts arrive.
Click to expand...

What water pump are you using?
 
Just adding to the thread for reading pleasure. :=)

1999
AW4
33 x 10.5
4.56 gearing
ZJ Standard clutch fan. New.
Mishimoto Performance Radiator
19lb caps pressure tested
Aux fan comes on at 217 as it should.
Flushed 1yr ago. Coolant still looks new.
No exhaust manifold leaks.
Mopar 195 thermostat
Nothing blocking airflow to the front of the radiator.
No debris in the radiator or ac condenser fins. Motor is immaculate.
Water pump is 2yr old. Stock Napa. No leaks from weep hole.
50/50 Zerex green

In 100+ weather it started to run warm with AC on. Warm as in 237 via OBDII and validated with temp gun. Warm on any hill or in traffic.

Start thinking, is it running lean, fan issue, head problem...??? you know when you start reading threads to find that one nugget that could solve your issue.

So I said, I'll just flush it thinking it would not help as the coolant looks brand new. I pulled hoses, flushed radiator, back though heater core and then ran 2 gals of distilled water and drained again. I saw no sediment or garbage come out. Was very clean.

Filled with ~60/40 mix of distilled to coolant. I then ran it with the cap off with front uphill for at least 30 minutes till no air bubbles (heater running).

It runs like it should now. Max temp is 213 and quickly cools down. Most often runs at 206-210. Can idle in traffic at 95+ deg with no issues. Doesn't make sense that the flush did anything or letting it idle for so long to get all bubbles out helps as it is open system. I am glad I tried that first before throwing money at parts. Figured I would share for others out there.

Oh, one last thing. The ZJ Standard fan really helps in low speed stuff, AC works amazing. Once summer is over I'll throw the mopar stock one back on as it is still good. It does pull a little power when accelerating but not enough for me to complain about.
 
cal said:
GMB high performance. Pumps water just fine, simply didn't have enough radiator to handle the grade + heat + no humidity + 33's on 4.10's.
Click to expand...

Thanks. I didn't mean to suggest it was a water pump issue. Was just curious what you are running. Are you running this pump on your other XJ(s)?
 
jk_surgeonfish said:
Just adding to the thread for reading pleasure. :=)

...

So I said, I'll just flush it thinking it would not help as the coolant looks brand new. I pulled hoses, flushed radiator, back though heater core and then ran 2 gals of distilled water and drained again. I saw no sediment or garbage come out. Was very clean.

Filled with ~60/40 mix of distilled to coolant. I then ran it with the cap off with front uphill for at least 30 minutes till no air bubbles (heater running).

It runs like it should now. Max temp is 213 and quickly cools down. Most often runs at 206-210. Can idle in traffic at 95+ deg with no issues. Doesn't make sense that the flush did anything or letting it idle for so long to get all bubbles out helps as it is open system. I am glad I tried that first before throwing money at parts. Figured I would share for others out there.

Oh, one last thing. The ZJ Standard fan really helps in low speed stuff, AC works amazing. Once summer is over I'll throw the mopar stock one back on as it is still good. It does pull a little power when accelerating but not enough for me to complain about.
Click to expand...

Interesting info. I did a drain and thorough flush last summer, and temps were very stable. This summer, temps are drifting up higher than last summer. I'm getting ready to replace the radiator and water pump because I want a two-row radiator, but I'm tempted to try burping the coolant system before taking it all apart.
 
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