Engine rebuild guidance

[RCP Phx]

You can't go wrong with Russ, he will set you up with what you want, just tell him your goals and he will guide you with the best!

 

[75SV1]

If he doesn't bring up how he wants you to break in the engine, I suggest you do. I spent 1/2 hour on the phone with him on that subject. Basically, how it did it on my 351W in the late 80's. Also, then read the instructions from the cam maker selected. Russ uses Comp Cams. Basically, it will be the same from any cam maker.

 

[RCP Phx]

Cam break-in is fairly unified between all the manufacturers, the engine break-in can vary a lot and is usually based on the builder, the build, and the components used! What circumstances you have available is also a major factor.

 

[Vitzaa]

Will be pulling the motor this week.

Russ is unfortunately unable to do any building for the next two months so I'm going to have a different shop do the machining.

With the jeep being lifted to the moon, I'm lucky my pops have a bobcat to pull the motor out with. Not sure if a cherry picker would be able to do the job lol.

I'll definitely pick Russ's brain for break in.

Will post some pics when the motor is out

 

[Fred]

I live at 6k feet, so much will not apply. I have a 90 with all stock electrical. The last rebuild made into a 4.1. It has a home ported dual port head, 11-1 compression ratio, stock intake manifold, bored T-body, Mopar 2.5 headers and exhaust, Hesco cam. 4 hole stock injectors, and it runs really well. It really wants to run over 5k. Fun for an overweight beast on 35's.

 

[Vitzaa]

Finally got the motor pulled... man, those two bolts on top of the bellhousing were a pain

 

[Vitzaa]

https://photos.app.goo.gl/8v9sqm93DLPo7Fsn8

 

[Vitzaa]

Can't imbed the image for some reason

 

[Vitzaa]

I live at 6k feet, so much will not apply. I have a 90 with all stock electrical. The last rebuild made into a 4.1. It has a home ported dual port head, 11-1 compression ratio, stock intake manifold, bored T-body, Mopar 2.5 headers and exhaust, Hesco cam. 4 hole stock injectors, and it runs really well. It really wants to run over 5k. Fun for an overweight beast on 35's.

Hey Fred, thanks for the tips... unfortunately I've gotta play nice with the smog police.

Doing a mild stroker. Should do 250hp on 87...

 

[75SV1]

Also, I use halomar sealant on the Front cover, water pump , thermostat gaskets. I've used it since the late 80's. I think it seals better and usually the gaskets peal off, if you need to replace stuff. Russ sells it.

 

[RCP Phx]

FWIW, it's Hylomar!

 

[Vitzaa]

Anyone know if I should upgrade the clutch while I'm in there? It's a a luk with 10k miles on it

 

[Anak]

I would replace the throwout bearing, but I wouldn't bother with the disc/pressure plate unless you know you are abusive of clutches.

P.O. replaced the clutch in mine. Bearing went out after I had put on something like 20K miles (no idea how many miles the P.O. put on it). I replaced the bearing and have put on another 40K miles (or so) and counting.

Assuming you used the bearing that came with the Luk kit, that bearing is a POS with plastic components that last just long enough to ensure the parts are out of warranty. Get a good Timken or SKF bearing.

 

[Vitzaa]

I would replace the throwout bearing, but I wouldn't bother with the disc/pressure plate unless you know you are abusive of clutches.

P.O. replaced the clutch in mine. Bearing went out after I had put on something like 20K miles (no idea how many miles the P.O. put on it). I replaced the bearing and have put on another 40K miles (or so) and counting.

Assuming you used the bearing that came with the Luk kit, that bearing is a POS with plastic components that last just long enough to ensure the parts are out of warranty. Get a good Timken or SKF bearing.

Right on, thank you!

 

[RCP Phx]

The only clutch issues I've witnessed has been due to improper gearing caused by larger tires and factory gearing and rock crawling where you constantly have to use the clutch.