WJ knockles

[RCP Phx]

My TRE had over 1/2" of clearance. 7/8-18 Chevy 1-ton TRE

The teves Calipers cleared just fine but had WAY less clearance than the TREs.

That also depends on the wheel type and backspacing!See post 22 & 23.

 

[Lowrange2]

But that kit usually runs like 900 bucks. Right? What advantages would I have, other than pattern change, that I could use to justify the G.

 

[Lowrange2]

That also depends on the wheel type and backspacing!See post 22 & 23.

Right, For reference I'm using 15x8 with 3.5" backspacing.

 

[cal]

30 spline vs 27 spline, unlocking hubs so your front end isnt spinning on the pavement, high strength CrMo spindles and hubs.

Up until alloy usa released the 30 spline unit bearing setup late 2006, the warn 5x5.5 kit was the only 30 spline outer setup available.

 

[joshv98xj]

If you were to do the WJ knuckle swap, do you have to go OTK, or would it just be kinda dumb not to because you're there doing all the work anyways?

 

[cal]

If you were to do the WJ knuckle swap, do you have to go OTK, or would it just be kinda dumb not to because you're there doing all the work anyways?

It would be just kinda dumb cuz you're going that far anyways.

 

[Lowrange2]

If you were to do the WJ knuckle swap, do you have to go OTK, or would it just be kinda dumb not to because you're there doing all the work anyways?

The main reason I went WJ stuff was so that the Draglink would have a decent angle on it. Therefor the only answer was to go OTK or there wasn't much change. As far as the Tie rod... what you said.

 

[RCP Phx]

If you were to do the WJ knuckle swap, do you have to go OTK, or would it just be kinda dumb not to because you're there doing all the work anyways?

The WJ/Tera knuckles ARE OTK set-ups as far as the draglink is concerned,the tie rod is another issue!

 

[Lowrange2]

30 spline vs 27 spline, unlocking hubs so your front end isnt spinning on the pavement, high strength CrMo spindles and hubs.

Up until alloy usa released the 30 spline unit bearing setup late 2006, the warn 5x5.5 kit was the only 30 spline outer setup available.

WHew I can't swing that kind of money now... I'mm upgrade everything as it breaks...
but I guess I'll have to upgrade stub shafts, hubs and wheels all at once. What did you do for rear patterns?

 

[cal]

WHew I can't swing that kind of money now... I'mm upgrade everything as it breaks...
but I guess I'll have to upgrade stub shafts, hubs and wheels all at once. What did you do for rear patterns?

My rear alloy shafts are dual pattern. I re-drill the drums and move the studs.

You can do an easier front upgrade - 30 spline stubs and unit bearings from Alloy-USA - if you dont have a 30 spline inner setup though is it really worth it?

 

[Lowrange2]

My rear alloy shafts are dual pattern. I re-drill the drums and move the studs.

You can do an easier front upgrade - 30 spline stubs and unit bearings from Alloy-USA - if you dont have a 30 spline inner setup though is it really worth it?

True. Does ARB make a 3 spline for the D30? If so I'll install 30 spline alloys, and an arb and hubkit all at the same time. It'll take 2 years to pile up all the parts but It'll be worth it!

 

[cal]

I have a sleeved and trussed housing with the knuckles rotated for pinion angle.

30 spline ARB, alloy usa 30 spline inner shafts, CTM's, alloy usa 30 spline stubs and alloy usa modified Timken 30 spline unit bearings. If you dont want to drop 4 bills on CTM's, Alloy usa makes their own superjoint, the "x-joint" which is pretty nice.

My pinion gear is about the weakest link in my system, I have no fear of breaking it on 35's.

Did I mention that I'm also running an alloy usa ring and pinion, and alloy usa tube seals? You'd think I'm their little bitch.

 

[Lowrange2]

Sounds pretty tough... So if something was to be the weak link in a setup what would you WANT it to be. THe least exspensive part or would the least expensive part cause more damage?

 

[cal]

The least expensive part is a u-joint. Its the last thing I want to break. U-joints can and often do take out balljoints.

I want my weak link to be the least unbreakable thing on the rig. I can upgrade my shafts, ujoints, housing, r&p is the weak link now. If I bust it, i'll pull the driveshaft, shafts, and run on 2 stubs to get home.

 

[XJSpencer]

I want my weak link to be the least unbreakable thing on the rig. I can upgrade my shafts, ujoints, housing, r&p is the weak link now. If I bust it, i'll pull the driveshaft, shafts, and run on 2 stubs to get home.

It'll be even better with the hubs.

 

[cal]

It'll be even better with the hubs.

I disagree.

I'm replacing 30 spline 4130 Alloy-USA stubs with 30 spline Warn stubs.

IMHO the Alloy-USA stubs are stronger. The hub -may- be stronger than the unit bearing, but I don't feel the unit bearing is a weak link.

 

[XJSpencer]

I disagree.

I'm replacing 30 spline 4130 Alloy-USA stubs with 30 spline Warn stubs.

IMHO the Alloy-USA stubs are stronger. The hub -may- be stronger than the unit bearing, but I don't feel the unit bearing is a weak link.

I meant that it'd be easier to setup to run home if you broke the pinion or ring gear.

 

[Lowrange2]

Just pull the DS and unlock the hubs.


Who just came out with a new hub kit? I can't remember.

 

[cal]

I meant that it'd be easier to setup to run home if you broke the pinion or ring gear.

Oh, yes, I totally agree.

 

[cal]

Just pull the DS and unlock the hubs.


Who just came out with a new hub kit? I can't remember.

Theres a new hub kit?

Warn 5x4.5 27 spline
Warn 5x5.5 30 spline
Milemarker 5x4.5 27 spline

Thats all I'm aware of?

There's also the alloy usa 30 spline unit bearing setup, that may be what you're thinking of?