Valve Cover and Oil Filter Adapter

[Blaine B.]

The complete adapter oring set is $4.00 from the dealership. GoJeep has the part number on his website. I believe I am going to order that torx bit for $3.50 from Amazon and go to Sears and get a 3/8" breaker bar tomorrow. I have a 1/2" breaker bar but never saw myself needing a 3/8" breaker bar...lol.

 

[dogsled1]

Jeeze that one 3/8" breaker bar at Amazon is like $35.00. I think you can get them at Sears for $10!

I like the idea of using that socket cap set. Do you think Sear's Lisle 1/2" drive T60 bit would fit when used in combination with the 1/2" drive socket cap? Then I wouldn't have to order that 3/8" drive T60 bit online.....

They have a set of the torx bits at autozone for $10 that includes the t60 like the amazon one. I could not find the l-wrenches that are mentioned here. My 1/2" t60 bit by itself will not fit in the space, much less with a breaker bar inserted. It does look like this would be easier to do (better angle) from underneath.

 

[Blaine B.]

I'll go to AutoZone right now. I thought I looked. I think I only looked at their individual bits though, in which I bought a T60 and seperated the bit from the chrome socket.

And yes I know the 1/2" T60 is huge, I was rather suprised.

 

[dogsled1]

the one's here were hanging in the tool aisle, OEM brand direct from China to the American consumer. I plan to pick up one of those from sets from Autozone tomorrow, I can post the part number if you want.

 

[Blaine B.]

I just got it, its a 5 piece (T40, T45, T47, T50, T60) "GreatNeck" 3/8" drive black one piece torx bit set for $10.00. Lifetime warranty. At least I can go into any AutoZone and exchange if one breaks instead of sending it back to Amazon online. Still have to acquire a 3/8" breaker bar.

 

[dogsled1]

Still have to acquire a 3/8" breaker bar.

I picked up one of those Sears adapter kits that somebody had linked to here (wrench head for sockets), I'm going to try that with a wrench first. I think they also sell those adapters at Harbor Freight. If that doesn't work, I'll try the breaker bar. Or maybe I'll get lucky and the valve cover gasket I replaced it today was the culprit.

 

[Blaine B.]

Yeah I figure a breaker bar might put more torque on it than having to put the adapter on then getting a wrench and then a pipe...we shall see.

 

[dogsled1]

Yeah I figure a breaker bar might put more torque on it than having to put the adapter on then getting a wrench and then a pipe...we shall see.

I use a wrench and a bigger wrench, boxed end to open end.
I'm hoping that the valve cover cures my problem as it was definitely leaking, but I'm not sure it was the only problem.

 

[Blaine B.]

Hopefully but probably not. Rear main, oil filter adapter, valvecover....I'm sure the valvecover helped though!

 

[SteveT]

I got the two piece 3/8" socket, and drove the center piece out of the chrome socket. Then used 2 Craftsman (i.e. use some quality, not that knock-off junk) combo wrenches, with my "new" bit in the box end side. I laid on my back, with feet towards the rear, with a flat bar between the frame rail and the bit, to hold it tight into the bolt.

Get a dead blow hammer, and with your 3-piece wrench set-up under tension, start some gentle smacking - an extra set of hands is helpful.

Steve

 

[cmb2008]

I just replaced mine in a 95. The local mechanix tried to start the bolt ,was afraid he would break it, so left it to me.

I bought a 1/2" drive torx bit/socket and drove out the torx and then welded the torx into a big nut, center hole about 5/8" then used a big 3' pipe wrench on the nut. Had to unbolt passenger motor mount and then unbolted transmission. Jacked up motor to gain some clearance and better angle. It took everything I had to break away the adapter bolt, even with all that leverage! After it loosened it was a piece of cake.

Good luck

 

[Blaine B.]

Damn. Did you get the motor up to operating temp first or anything right before attempting?

I hope this combination works!

That's a 3/8" drive Craftsman breaker bar from Sears for $14.75 with tax.

 

[cmb2008]

Blaine; I did run it to temp. It was damn stubborn. Actually the guy that refused to "break" it off is a very good mechanic, he has had a couple cherokees plus worked on many others. At the time I was busy at work and felt he would do the best job. He was honest at least. Can't say that I blame him for passing on the job!

Its done and doen't leak. I did put a bit of Neversieze on the threads in case of future problems.

I could not get the breaker bar/socket to fit between the frame and bolt. Jacking it up helped to access the bolt from the top.

 

[Blaine B.]

Yeah if and when I ever get it out I planned to add some anti seize too....although it is more than likely oil on the orings keeping the bolt snug. I doubt there is any seizing there in the block.

 

[Talyn]

Good luck Blaine!

 

[Coastie]

I did mine today, I bought a T60 from AA and ended up punching out the bit from the socket and cutting it down to a little nub. Then I put the nub in a 3/8" socket and used a breaker bar. Worked great.

 

[Blaine B.]

I just attemped mine really quick. It all fits but a prybar (and a second set of hands) would really be essential to keep the bit square in the bolt. I'd also like to find a nicer breaker bar, the one I have is too big for the small 3/8" drive handle.

What a pain. If they only used a normal bolt....

 

[dogsled1]

I changed my valve cover first, that was about 85% of my problem, but I still have a drip; not sure if it is o-ring or rear main.....

 

[Coastie]

The oil filter adapter can look like a rear main IMO, I did my oil filter adapter thinking both were leaking. Nope, just the o-rings.