XJI6191
NAXJA Forum User
They have their uses, especially in 3/8" drive, steering box plumbing comes to mind, but not for Torx heads.
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The Infamous Oil Filter Adapter
- Thread starter MadKraken
- Start date
RCP Phx
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Phoenix,Az
I dont recall what size but it holds a t60 perfectly and allows the use of a breaker bar, I've used it many times!!!
RCP Phx
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Phoenix,Az
I should add that it also allows a torque wrench to be used for re-installation.
12mm is what I've found to hold the knocked out torx bits perfectly.
RCP Phx
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Phoenix,Az
I found my t60 bit, it actually fits 14mm a little better than 9/16" but I've got both sets so ........
XJI6191
NAXJA Forum User
Ahhhh, now I see where you're coming from. Too bad the hex on my torx bits is nothing like 12mm - 9 maybe, but anyway, a size I've sever found any wrench fits.
tech1001
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Los Angeles / Santa Clarita
Not to hijack the thread but Has any body turned the filter so it sets straight up so the filter can be filled when you do a oil change ? and does it have any problems doing that ?
RCP Phx
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Phoenix,Az
The internal body of the adapter is "indexed" so you would have to grind the body.
RCP Phx
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Phoenix,Az
BTW, even though I run the pressure up to at least 20psi prior to every start, I also fill the filter prior to installing it. You cant "fill it " but you can "wet it" enough with oil without making a mess putting it on.
Einulfr
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Puyallup, WA
It's like plastic/nitrile compared to a traditional viton o-ring. And the square edging is far too uniform and consistent to have started out as one.
Well, I gave it another shot yesterday from underneath. Unfortunately all that happened was the bolt head got slightly rounded. I decided to order a new one from ebay before attempting anything else. I know it's gonna end up destroyed before I get it out. I think I should been giving it a hard smack not trying to pull against it slowly. I just hope there's enough left of the head to give ti another shot.
Next step if that doesn't work is a pipe wrench. I actually didn't think of that til I found some threads on other forums of guys doing it that way when the head stripped out. It's just a damn shame I didn't think of wedging something behind it before torquing on it like I did. It's not stripped...yet. But it definitely has some gnarling to it. The bit twisted sideways some and got jammed.
The other thing I didn't think too much about at first....all these threads and videos...the guys are typically working on 10 year old or so vehicles at the time and look a LOT cleaner than mine under the hood. Mine is 24 years old and has lived life in the NE rust belt the entire time. Probably about the worst case scenario.
Next step if that doesn't work is a pipe wrench. I actually didn't think of that til I found some threads on other forums of guys doing it that way when the head stripped out. It's just a damn shame I didn't think of wedging something behind it before torquing on it like I did. It's not stripped...yet. But it definitely has some gnarling to it. The bit twisted sideways some and got jammed.
The other thing I didn't think too much about at first....all these threads and videos...the guys are typically working on 10 year old or so vehicles at the time and look a LOT cleaner than mine under the hood. Mine is 24 years old and has lived life in the NE rust belt the entire time. Probably about the worst case scenario.
- Location
- NJ, U.S.A.
Ironically, I just had to deal with this on my '92 (or, rather, my mechanic did).
Getting it apart was an ordeal and it did go back together tight apparently, but he was concerned about the threads on the bolt failing to hold up if we ever have to do the o-rings again (this was, as far as I know, the first time the thing had ever been apart). He recommended I lay in a spare bolt just in case.
The correct part number for my year (53009070, hex head) shows on MoparPartsGiant as discontinued/NLA, but the later Torx version (p/n53020237) is available and claimed to be compatible with 1991-2001.
Anyone ever use the later torx-style bolt on an engine originally equipped with the hex version? Figured I'd ask before I plunk down the $23 to get one of the later ones...
Getting it apart was an ordeal and it did go back together tight apparently, but he was concerned about the threads on the bolt failing to hold up if we ever have to do the o-rings again (this was, as far as I know, the first time the thing had ever been apart). He recommended I lay in a spare bolt just in case.
The correct part number for my year (53009070, hex head) shows on MoparPartsGiant as discontinued/NLA, but the later Torx version (p/n53020237) is available and claimed to be compatible with 1991-2001.
Anyone ever use the later torx-style bolt on an engine originally equipped with the hex version? Figured I'd ask before I plunk down the $23 to get one of the later ones...
Last edited:
Not an answer to your question, but a comment. I actually ordered 53020237 the other day from ebay. Not sure if your number was a typo or not (you had 337 instead of 237). I researched as much as I could for my 99 and found this to be the replacement.
I was going to order off of one of the "mopar xxx" sites until I researched them on resellerratings.com. With shipping, it was going to be right around $30 anyway, so the one on ebay was I think $32. Essentially the same price and I figured I'd have better luck with ebay since it's usually easier to deal with individual sellers. Here is the link if interested:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/166392681197
- Location
- NJ, U.S.A.
Yeah, I think the "0337" was a typo. Thanks for the catch, I've corrected my post.
- Location
- NJ, U.S.A.
Well, ended up ordering the new style from the eBay link gba88 provided. MoparPartsGiant wantrd to tack on $10 more because they had to get it from a "vintage parts seller",then $22 more to ship it. Wasn't gonna pay THAT much.
Thanks again for the link!
Thanks again for the link!
No problem! Mine arrived last week. Unfortunately.....this job has officially kicked my A55... I cannot believe out of all the projects I've done on jeeps over the years (even replacing the exhaust manifold this year), that THIS little part is what did me in.
The bolt is now rounded out, I've spent probably $100 on different bits/tools and a replacement bolt and the original remains seized in place with the infamous drip collecting on the oil filter.
I tried to get a small pipe wrench on the rim of the bolt but holy hell...trying to hit JUST the rim and not mangle the housing...not sure how it can be done. My dad thought we should cut a slot in the edge and hammer with a screwdriver. Since this is a DD and I can't afford for it to be out of commission, it made more sense to just deal with the leak for now than to start cutting and pounding on stuff especially since I have the bolt but NOT an extra housing.
I'm open to any ideas/links/advice that anyone may have who found themselves in a similar situation with this project from hell.
- Location
- In a strange land
Do you have a welder?
I have found welding to be the best solution for stuck bolts. Provide yourself with something that gives a better grip + the benefits of the hot wrench.
If the bolt is rounded off I gather it is the old style (not Torx). I would get a piece of flat stock, probably 5/16" thick x 1" or 1-1/2" wide, drill a hole that will fit over the rounded head and weld that on in a position that will let you crank on it to loosen the bolt. Keep in mind you will need to cut off said piece of steel in order to remove the bolt. First step is to get it loose. Next step is to get it out.
I have found welding to be the best solution for stuck bolts. Provide yourself with something that gives a better grip + the benefits of the hot wrench.
If the bolt is rounded off I gather it is the old style (not Torx). I would get a piece of flat stock, probably 5/16" thick x 1" or 1-1/2" wide, drill a hole that will fit over the rounded head and weld that on in a position that will let you crank on it to loosen the bolt. Keep in mind you will need to cut off said piece of steel in order to remove the bolt. First step is to get it loose. Next step is to get it out.
Sorry for any confusion, it's a 99 and it was the torx... rounded out at this point. I don't weld, but my brother does and I thought of having a large nut welded on it, but didn't know about the safety/ability to weld in that area.
RCP Phx
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Phoenix,Az
Your in a world of hurt at this point, about the only non-distructive way now would be to pull the engine. You might try a good pipe wrench again but since your likely to do damage to the adapter I would have a replacement on hand. They are getting hard to find new so you probably need to go through this again at the junk yard.
