These are being sent to me ( not physically to me as I'm deployed but to my house
)
Thank You Brown Dog Offroad. I will never have to worry about motor mounts and engine brackets again!
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Team MAD build
- Thread starter sallys xj
- Start date
POSJ
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Minot ND, Unfortunately
POSJ
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Minot ND, Unfortunately
lol, really Matt?
Hope you like the MT/R's you're welcome for the heads up on the rear 1/4's. Good luck out there.
Went ahead and created a new facebook page for our team and our car. I made the page to try and get as much esposure for our sponsors. So if you want head over and "LIKE" our page. Ill still update the thread with build info but the FB page will get more details.
www.facebook.com/teammadxj
www.facebook.com/teammadxj
GrimmJeeper
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Gardena, CA
done :thumbup:
GrimmJeeper
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Gardena, CA
nice choice, those are some killer looking wheels
Thanks man i cant wait to get home and start with the build, having these parts pile up is awesome but they will look better under the jeep rather then around it.
GrimmJeeper
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Gardena, CA
you should stack everything up around the jeep and take a pic before it all goes on, would make a cool shot to give the sponsors with a thank you note :thumbup:
Yeah that would be cool..would show what 8-10K looks like However the XJ is on the side of the house, tires are at the shop, HP D60 is at Letzroll Offroad with the wheels and PSC ram assist. Brown Dog motor mounts and bracket along with prime 4x4's switches are at the house. So you can say my parts are scattered...But ill try.
Here are some photos of the prime 4x4 winch switch panel. This goes in the change holder on the center console right between the front seats. Makes it real close to either driver or co-driver. This is our Plan B. button in the center is to turn the winch on, toggle switch on the left side is in and out while the switch on the right side is going to be wired to our Hella Super Horns. I wanted the winch buttons close to me and the horn close to my co-driver and this is perfect. Thanks again prime4x4. be sure to check out the goods at www.prime4x4.com
PSC ram assist kit with custom steering and power steering cooler can now be added to the parts pile at Letzroll offroad. Also ordered my 4" Deaver "race" Leaf packs.
Also Ill be home by the end of the weekend and should be dropping the XJ off at Letzroll Offroad to start the phase 1 build. Swap out the front Hp D30 for the HP D60, mount the MTR/K's on the raceline beadlocks, install the Deaver suspension parts and the Bilstein front Bump stops, install the steering and weld up the stiffeners. Phase 2 will be door removal, install tube doors, skin tube doors, window nets, more tube to the cage, glass removal and wieght reduction (removing all the heating and AC parts from inside the engine and under the dash), along with installing the motor mounts and engine brackets and wire the switch panels. Also planning on ordering a Borla header and exhaust. I plan on doing a high temp header wrap to help fight the heat and install the alumn 3 core radiator with a ZJ fan clutch and new fan shroud..then its seat time and pre-running to fix or identify anything before we get to the lake bed.
Also Ill be home by the end of the weekend and should be dropping the XJ off at Letzroll Offroad to start the phase 1 build. Swap out the front Hp D30 for the HP D60, mount the MTR/K's on the raceline beadlocks, install the Deaver suspension parts and the Bilstein front Bump stops, install the steering and weld up the stiffeners. Phase 2 will be door removal, install tube doors, skin tube doors, window nets, more tube to the cage, glass removal and wieght reduction (removing all the heating and AC parts from inside the engine and under the dash), along with installing the motor mounts and engine brackets and wire the switch panels. Also planning on ordering a Borla header and exhaust. I plan on doing a high temp header wrap to help fight the heat and install the alumn 3 core radiator with a ZJ fan clutch and new fan shroud..then its seat time and pre-running to fix or identify anything before we get to the lake bed.
RWKHausSupply
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- yorba linda, Cali
sounds like your on a planned schedule, thats always good.
I dont know if you have the rad yet or not, but you might want to look for a 2row rad that has the thicker tubes. http://www.americaneagleradiator.com/ is where we got ours. Reason being is that you get more air flow thru it at slow speeds (crawling) and at any real speed it gets alot of air thru it. More then a 3 row. A 4.0 (or even our 4.6ish with 10.5:1 and built) doesn't need alot of radiator, it needs a functioning, cooling system. This with a flowcooler pump is great for us. Very seldom do I turn on the elect fan, and just let the mech fan do its job, which keeps it at 190-200 unless a long pull up something or climbing something then the elect fan on, brings it down to 185 and never goes up.
We also swapped from the clifford header (I think this is what blew our motor, long story and not for in your thread of course) to a APN when we got the new long block in. Its been great. Its a coated header and noticed no reduction in feel of the butt HP or speed.
Is 4" of lift in the rear enough for 35" tires? We went straight to 5.5" and a 1.25 shackle and run a 1.25" Ubolt eliminator kit so total of 8" rear lift. It doesnt look that high at all though. But we use every .25" of that to fully cycle a laid back 10" 2.5" shock fully. In the front I had deaver do a custom 7" coil (was not cheap at all, like 650$). And we run the legal daystar bumps in the cans with the foam, these are awesome. You can never feel the car hit the bump at all.
I will not be running this year, and if you care to email, I would be more then happy to give you any pictures, or experience on what we did. Its a fully functioning race car now. Everything we did has been tuned and tested and I could not be more happy with anything on the Jeep. [email protected]
Sounds like your on your way to being in debt like the rest of us
I dont know if you have the rad yet or not, but you might want to look for a 2row rad that has the thicker tubes. http://www.americaneagleradiator.com/ is where we got ours. Reason being is that you get more air flow thru it at slow speeds (crawling) and at any real speed it gets alot of air thru it. More then a 3 row. A 4.0 (or even our 4.6ish with 10.5:1 and built) doesn't need alot of radiator, it needs a functioning, cooling system. This with a flowcooler pump is great for us. Very seldom do I turn on the elect fan, and just let the mech fan do its job, which keeps it at 190-200 unless a long pull up something or climbing something then the elect fan on, brings it down to 185 and never goes up.
We also swapped from the clifford header (I think this is what blew our motor, long story and not for in your thread of course) to a APN when we got the new long block in. Its been great. Its a coated header and noticed no reduction in feel of the butt HP or speed.
Is 4" of lift in the rear enough for 35" tires? We went straight to 5.5" and a 1.25 shackle and run a 1.25" Ubolt eliminator kit so total of 8" rear lift. It doesnt look that high at all though. But we use every .25" of that to fully cycle a laid back 10" 2.5" shock fully. In the front I had deaver do a custom 7" coil (was not cheap at all, like 650$). And we run the legal daystar bumps in the cans with the foam, these are awesome. You can never feel the car hit the bump at all.
I will not be running this year, and if you care to email, I would be more then happy to give you any pictures, or experience on what we did. Its a fully functioning race car now. Everything we did has been tuned and tested and I could not be more happy with anything on the Jeep. [email protected]
Sounds like your on your way to being in debt like the rest of us
Robert,
Thank you for the advice, input and help. You may hear from me if I run in to any issues. As for the suspension the front will have the Deaver 5.5" coil with a 1.75" coil spacer to help compensate for the winch and bumper. I currently have a 6.5" rough country coil that is supper saggy and the 35s clear plenty. As for the rear Deaver 4" leaf pack, extended shackle good for 1.5-2" and H.D. engineering shackle relocation kit. The front will get a pair of Bilstein foam filled bump stops to help slow the upward axel movement. I’ll be calling Joel to work out the shocks. My big hurdle is the fuel system as there are so many cells that I’m not 100% on what to run. Inputs on that would be very helpful.
I have to ask why are you not racing it this year. You built an awesome car why not get her dirty?
As for debt..Yeah something like that right? But all seriousness my deployment has helped offset this build a lot but we still have a ways to go, which I hope to cover with my take off parts I sell. Spending money is all part of racing though and I want to race the Hammers!
Matt
Thank you for the advice, input and help. You may hear from me if I run in to any issues. As for the suspension the front will have the Deaver 5.5" coil with a 1.75" coil spacer to help compensate for the winch and bumper. I currently have a 6.5" rough country coil that is supper saggy and the 35s clear plenty. As for the rear Deaver 4" leaf pack, extended shackle good for 1.5-2" and H.D. engineering shackle relocation kit. The front will get a pair of Bilstein foam filled bump stops to help slow the upward axel movement. I’ll be calling Joel to work out the shocks. My big hurdle is the fuel system as there are so many cells that I’m not 100% on what to run. Inputs on that would be very helpful.
I have to ask why are you not racing it this year. You built an awesome car why not get her dirty?
As for debt..Yeah something like that right? But all seriousness my deployment has helped offset this build a lot but we still have a ways to go, which I hope to cover with my take off parts I sell. Spending money is all part of racing though and I want to race the Hammers!
Matt
