steering issues.

[cracker]

Better.

Does your pitman arm/rod end bolt touch your tie rod when flexed?

Did you do this?

My suggestion is to unbolt your axle side drag link and let it hang down. Measure that distance it drops and calculate how much your rig will flex down until you hit your limit strap. If the limit strap hits before the rod end bottoms out you should be ok

 

[rockclimber]

Better.

Does your pitman arm/rod end bolt touch your tie rod when flexed?

Did you do this?

No, and No.

The Tie Rod comes up just in between the Track Bar and the Pitman arm. I suppose if I had some more uptravel it may hit, but it won't in its current setup. I only have about 4" of up allowed and the tie-rod is lower than that. it also isn't directly under the pitman arm

the Heim that is at the pitman arm is only staying until the HI angle TRE and tube adapter from Ruffstuff shows up and I have a chance to get it in.

I'm not going to make it out to JV this weekend, too much crap to do so It will be fine street driving until then.


thanks for the help. I am waiting on the High angle TRE before I call it done and mount up a stabilizer.

speaking of that, who makes a good SS anymore?

 

[Lowrange2]

Since you seem to work fairly fast you could make the knuckles double shear fairly easily.

Take a piece of flat bar drill the bolt hole in it. Bend it down to the knuckle and weld it to it. Then brace that up. Make sense?

No exactly what I was looking for but close. http://www.google.com/imgres?q=dana...9&tbnw=119&start=0&ndsp=18&ved=1t:429,r:1,s:0

That would help with the height and leverage at the knuckle.

 

[rockclimber]

You misread it. I said when especially when NOT running high steer.






True high steer set ups generally are closer to being flat when the suspension is normal on flat ground so when they do drop out you will notice you have more usable range. Rockclimber will exceed his usable range of the rod end when he drops out.

My suggestion is to unbolt your axle side drag link and let it hang down. Measure that distance it drops and calculate how much your rig will flex down until you hit your limit strap. If the limit strap hits before the rod end bottoms out you should be ok. I am also not a fan of the size of the bolt that is used to retain the rod end on the pitman arm and that it is single shear. The rod end with the high misalignment spacers stack height can be quite tall and a 1/2" bolt worries me as I have seen them bend that way in the past. The Genright option above is a good solution for that problem.

Yea, I can only droop the passenger side about 4" right now with the current Rod end. hopefully the high angle TRE will give me about 3" or 4" more.

FWIW that is a 5/8" bolt that measures 2" below the pitman arm with the misalignment spacers.

 

[rockclimber]

Since you seem to work fairly fast you could make the knuckles double shear fairly easily.

Take a piece of flat bar drill the bolt hole in it. Bend it down to the knuckle and weld it to it. Then brace that up. Make sense?

No exactly what I was looking for but close.

That would help with the height and leverage at the knuckle.

It went fast because I had help from a good friend of mine who can weld a hell of a lot better than me.

that double sheer setup is a good idea. I may do that. probably use some 3/6" or 1/4" flat bar though.

need to get another 3/4" bit and a 3/4" reamer. broke my bit today and don't have a reamer.

 

[rockclimber]

now I just need to sort out some sway bar links and limit strap mounts...

a project for the weekend I think

EDIT and I still need to remove everything, paint it, drill holes in the bolts for cotter pins, route the ARB line, and my steering wheel is barely off center.

 

[cracker]

I would go without the steering stabilizer. If your agles are good and everythign is fresh and tight they are not needed.

 

[Lowrange2]

Earlier I was refering to the double shear pitman arm. That's how I did it.

Since you're going with the TRE you obviously won't need it.

 

[rockclimber]

I would go without the steering stabilizer. If your agles are good and everythign is fresh and tight they are not needed.

yea, I am still getting a slight vibe from about 50-60. I am going to get my tires balanced, and see what the TRE does to it.

my angles look good, they are still within 1*.

I am going to get under there with a torque wrench and make sure nothing got loose. but I would rather run a SS and not have to worry about a small vibe.

Earlier I was refering to the double shear pitman arm. That's how I did it.

Since you're going with the TRE you obviously won't need it.

aaahhh... well yea, that makes sense now.

 

[rockclimber]

Alright somebody check me on this.

My plan is to run the es2027 TRE at the pitman arm to allow for more droop.

I am going to run my steering stabilizer on the top hole of my ruffstuff panhard bracket, to a tab on the drag link. I just need to reduce the holes from 5/8" to 7/16". Not sure how yet, possibly with some1/4" welded in and drilled out to 7/16"

If that doesn't eliminate my vibrations, and my tie rod roll, I will swap the passenger side rod end on the tie rod for a. 1 ton TRE part number TK234( obviously will need a new tube insert), drill the knuckle out to 7/8", drop in a tapered insert from ruffstuff and put an anti-roll spacer on it from JCR.

Feedback?

Also, has anyone used the JCR sway bar mounts? I want to run my swaybar again, they seem like a pretty good way of doing it.

 

[Lowrange2]

I think your remaining vibration is coming from somewhere else tho. Don't rule out the rest of the suspension. Mine has BRAND NEW steering on the whole thing (All stock on the DD with 3" lift) and still shimmy's a little bit at 50.

I would think that the TREs at the knuckles would eliminate most of the roll but if you're going to do it I'd do it on both sides or else you'll drive in circles all the time.

As far as the sway bar and SS. In my experience, a sway bar eliminates more wobble than a steering stabilizer. I haven't ran a steering stabilizer in a while. I'm still trying to figure out how to get a sway bar back on my trail rig.

The JCR mounts work if you haven't heavily modified the coil buckets. My coil buckets are nothing like the factory and I don't really have a place to make axle mounts for the sway bar links. If you use the JCR mounts I would find a way to support them up towards the top. When I did use them I had them mounted so they were about 4 inches tall (Above the highest weld). The first time I drove thru a ditch with the sway bar on it bent the mounts over on the axle. I wish someone would come up with a 3/8 thick sway bar mount that is intended to weld to the axle tube rather than the coil bucket. My tie rod would also hit them if they were in the stock location. I have to get mine way up high.

 

[cracker]

Alright somebody check me on this.

My plan is to run the es2027 TRE at the pitman arm to allow for more droop.

I am going to run my steering stabilizer on the top hole of my ruffstuff panhard bracket, to a tab on the drag link. I just need to reduce the holes from 5/8" to 7/16". Not sure how yet, possibly with some1/4" welded in and drilled out to 7/16"

If that doesn't eliminate my vibrations, and my tie rod roll, I will swap the passenger side rod end on the tie rod for a. 1 ton TRE part number TK234( obviously will need a new tube insert), drill the knuckle out to 7/8", drop in a tapered insert from ruffstuff and put an anti-roll spacer on it from JCR.

Feedback?

Also, has anyone used the JCR sway bar mounts? I want to run my swaybar again, they seem like a pretty good way of doing it.

I would balance your tires and align the front end before putting on the ss. A ss on masks problems that already exist.

 

[RCman]

Revision II

needs freeway testing, but was good up to 50mph.

much less tierod roll, still a small amount. waiting on the 1 ton TRE to arrive.

probably going to run a stabilizer as well

Until you swap that TRE to the pitman side please put on a safety washer. There is nothing stopping that rod end, if it fails, from falling right off that bolt.

Second, maybe I missed it, but why are you running that setup at all? Why not run the drag link to the pass side arm and then the tie rod separate from it between the two? This totally eliminates the roll issue.

I would balance your tires and align the front end before putting on the ss. A ss on masks problems that already exist.

This, although balancing only lasts until the first trip out.
Forget a steering stabilizer.

 

[MoparManiac]

Until you swap that TRE to the pitman side please put on a safety washer. There is nothing stopping that rod end, if it fails, from falling right off that bolt.

Second, maybe I missed it, but why are you running that setup at all? Why not run the drag link to the pass side arm and then the tie rod separate from it between the two? This totally eliminates the roll issue.

This, although balancing only lasts until the first trip out.
Forget a steering stabilizer.

Agreed on the safety washer.

He'll need to get more length out of the trackbar then. Not much room on the axle side. Frame side could be modified.

Balancing with BBs inside the tires lasts.

 

[rockclimber]

Until you swap that TRE to the pitman side please put on a safety washer. There is nothing stopping that rod end, if it fails, from falling right off that bolt.

there is the misalignment spacer. I swapped the standard one from when the pic was taken to a safety misalignment like the one between it and the pitman arm

Second, maybe I missed it, but why are you running that setup at all? Why not run the drag link to the pass side arm and then the tie rod separate from it between the two? This totally eliminates the roll issue.

that would make my Drag link about 5" longer than my trackbar and totally XXXX the angle. I can't move the axle side any further, and the frame side won't go out that far.

This, although balancing only lasts until the first trip out.
Forget a steering stabilizer.

I will make sure everything is locked down tight again, and get my alignment perfect before I go for the SS.

 

[rockclimber]

I would think that the TREs at the knuckles would eliminate most of the roll but if you're going to do it I'd do it on both sides or else you'll drive in circles all the time.

can you clarify? why?

As far as the sway bar and SS. In my experience, a sway bar eliminates more wobble than a steering stabilizer. I haven't ran a steering stabilizer in a while. I'm still trying to figure out how to get a sway bar back on my trail rig.

The JCR mounts work if you haven't heavily modified the coil buckets. My coil buckets are nothing like the factory and I don't really have a place to make axle mounts for the sway bar links. If you use the JCR mounts I would find a way to support them up towards the top. When I did use them I had them mounted so they were about 4 inches tall (Above the highest weld). The first time I drove thru a ditch with the sway bar on it bent the mounts over on the axle. I wish someone would come up with a 3/8 thick sway bar mount that is intended to weld to the axle tube rather than the coil bucket. My tie rod would also hit them if they were in the stock location. I have to get mine way up high.

my buckets aren't modified, other than being trimmed a little for tie-rod clearance.

3/8" would be nice, and if I had a CNC plasma I'd make some.

 

[rockclimber]

I tightened everything down, adjusted the Toe in a little bit, It is toed in right at 1/8"

I took it out and it was good up to 60mph, until I started slowing down, then the DW came back like crazy.

at this point I'm not sure what to do. I'll wait for the Pitman arm TRE before I do anything else. probably wont get it until friday.

 

[MoparManiac]

What's your caster?

 

[rockclimber]

not sure, probably slightly less than stock, my pinion is rotated up a little, but not much.

I will get an angle finder on it and find out. if It is out of spec I can drop the pinion angle some because I am running warn lockouts so the driveshaft doesn't spin on road anymore.

 

[rockclimber]

caster is right about 7 or 8 degrees, rearward tilt on both sides. that was measured in my driveway, which is pretty flat, but I will get a more accurate measurement with the jeep in the garage tomorrow.

I know stock measurement is 7* I am not sure what it is for my suspension height (+4")

I should also mention that my front end is 3/4" wider than stock because of the Warn hubs.