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Rusty '96 - I'm in love with it!

You can get rivets, air-driven rivet gun and bucking bars (no, I didn't misspell that) from the previously mentioned Aircradt Spruce ans Specialty. It will be a two-person job; one in the truck cabin with the air gun and the other holding the bucking bar against the rivet underneath the truck. It will take doing about 10 rivets to get the hang of it.
 
the confusing thing is, how do you know when to screw into the unibody, or the crossmembers? does taking out sections of the floor sheet metal hurt the structural integrity of the jeep?

i saw a post in a search where someone had riveted/screwed almost the entire floor...
 
bacelaw said:
the confusing thing is, how do you know when to screw into the unibody, or the crossmembers? does taking out sections of the floor sheet metal hurt the structural integrity of the jeep?

i saw a post in a search where someone had riveted/screwed almost the entire floor...

Once you get the mats out and see the holes, believe me, you'll know exactly where the crossmembers are. You'll likely be working your way around various angles and curves in some places. One of the favorite areas for rust is both in front of and behind the box that forms the base for the rear seat. If the rust goes right to the margin, you'll end up having to make L-shaped patches and attach them to the verticals. The main argument for not drilling into crossmembers, etc. is that you'll break more drills and shear more screws. There may be points where you'll find it better to drill a larger hole and put bolts through crossmembers. A few #10 machine screws are pretty handy to have around anyway for areas where it's hard to place a sheet metal screw, or you need to draw pieces together without stripping the hole. You can get them long, then snip them short when you've tightened them. There will probably be a few places where you'll have to leave a lot of overlap to find suitable attachment points. It's also both possible and sometimes necessary to overlap the patches themselves. If you trim the rust neatly and bend the new metal carefully, what starts out looking like an impossible mess will end up pretty neat and tight.

In theory, it probably does affect the torsional rigidity of the unibody to remove hunks of floor, but in practice it doesn't. The tinworm has already done the removing. Holes don't hold much together. Putting pieces back may not put all the strength back but it certainly won't hurt.

edit: I almost forgot, another area where rust can occur is the mounts for the emergency brake cables, which are spot welded to the floor. While you're under there, check for flex there. You can bolt reinforcements in there if need be. You'll be surprised at how much better your handbrake works.
 
Rick Anderson said:
Finally, there are several rust treatments out there to consider. There are lots of knooks and crannies on the underside, some you can't reach. They make a rust neatraulizers, that chemically react with the rust to form a hard salt that will act like paint primer, might want to use that in the knooks and cranies that are tough to get too

Let's take a moment to explore this trail, shall we?

Mine is a '00... so it's not gotten into the rotted-floor syndrome just yet. But on my last couple of ventures underneath, I can see that various edges and welds are beginning to get a bit of crust on them.

What (if anything!) can be done to stop or greatly slow the progression?

I've owned two kinds of cars in my life - old crappy ones that weren't worth putting a lot of effort into... and new ones that didn't need any effort. My Jeep is the first "tweener" I've owned!

Undercoating? A trip to Ziebart? Oil?

Thoughts?

Den
 
I've got experience in Aviation; what we call a "Uni-Body" in cars you'd call a "Semi-Monocoque" structure in airplanes.

The structural strength is a combination of the skin and frame/structural pieces attached to the skin.

You can tell how critical a piece is by it appearance, if its thick and solid, it probably bears a lot of load, if its thin and flimsy, not so much load. Notice the Floor Pan has many ridges formed in it, for no apparent reason, there is a reason, those ridges make the sheet metal more ridigit, they place them in area where there is more flex and load on the floor that make it flex more.

Yes, cutting out sections of the floor will make the floor weaker, BUT Remember 2 Things:
*Your cutting out rotted out sections of the floor with holes in it already, your not weaking the floor anymore than it already is, by cutting back the rust hole a little bigger so that you get all the rust out and get a even edge.
*The floor pan is already fairly low load/stress part of the frame, with the bigger, thicker, heavier pieces taking much more of the load. Its more of a matter of the stress being spread throughout the floor.


So patching already existing holes the floor, shouldn't weaken it any further, depending on how good of a job you do will determine how much of the original strength is returned.

Remember, the entire unibody is put together with SPOT WELDS, not full length seam welds. Spot Welds act a lot like rivets, 2 pieces of metal are attached at many connections an inch or half inch apart along the seams. So pop rivets and sheet metal screws placed 1/2" to an inch apart all along the seem of the patch, with the patch well fitting and rivets/screws done properly, should be very strong and distribute the load thru the floor pretty close to how it was done originally. (Yes, spots welds are much stronger than pop rivets, I'm just making the point that if your worried that pop rivets will allow to much bending and flexing, you need to remember that spot welds are suppossed to allow some bending and flexing as well.)

As far as not cutting or drilling the heavier structural pieces, I think its good advice for several reasons, as well as those mentioned above;

*Making mistakes with the lower load floor pan, won't be as expensive or risk weakening the structure as much as making mistakes with the bigger, heavier more critical structural pieces.

*Avoid making additional paths for moisture to work its way between metal pieces, and start rust and rot again. Drilling lots of holes in those places can give a path for moisture to work its way in there and rust.

*Avoiding unintended consequences, if the floor pan is rotted, then just repair the floorpan, don't fix things that AIN'T Broke, like the bigger structural pieces. Start drilling and cutting up structural pieces thinking your strengthing the floor, the unitended consequences might be that you've weakened the overall structure, by making the low load structure stronger than it needs to be, but weakened the high load pieces by drilling lots of holes in them.

NOT Drilling crossmemebers is a general GUIDELINE there are exceptions and use common sense. If you got a large patch right over crossmember, the crossmember and floor need to be attached to transfer the load and support each other in distributing the load. So you've got to get that big section of the floor attached to the crossmember, drill some small holes and rivet/screw the patch section to the crossmember, its probably best to tac-weld them together, but if you've only got pop-rivets and screws available then you have to make due.

Make sure to get SEAM SEALER and put that in overlap of sheet metal or metal pieces, so that it can seal out the water and prevent new rot and rust.

I'm not an expert, and I know there are lots of poeple on this board with more experience than I in doing this sort of thing, so take their advice over mine, I'm imparting common sense and what I know from basic engineering, I think the experts would agree with my points.
 
DenLip said:
Let's take a moment to explore this trail, shall we?

Mine is a '00... so it's not gotten into the rotted-floor syndrome just yet. But on my last couple of ventures underneath, I can see that various edges and welds are beginning to get a bit of crust on them.

What (if anything!) can be done to stop or greatly slow the progression?

I've owned two kinds of cars in my life - old crappy ones that weren't worth putting a lot of effort into... and new ones that didn't need any effort. My Jeep is the first "tweener" I've owned!

Undercoating? A trip to Ziebart? Oil?

Thoughts?
WATER is the closest thing to an UNIVERSAL Solvent man has found. Thats your enemy.

Actually its oxygen that causes rust, and metal will rust exposed to just air, BUT, water is 1 part Oxygen and 2 parts hydrogen, so water is much more effective at creating that galvanitic electrical reaction and providing the oxygen for the rusting.

It impossible to keep water off the bottom of the car, but you want the car to dry off as soon as possible and not have places for the water to get trapped and spend days in some nook or crannie that lets it start the rot.

The paint does a pretty good job of keeping the water off the metal, but dirt and chemicals (especially salt for de-icing roads) breaks down the paint.

So keep the underside clean is the most important preventative step. Everytime I wash my cars, I spray the hose all up under the body to flush away the big dirt and chemicals, once a year, usually summer, I take the time and discomfort of getting soaking wet by washing the underside of the car thoroughly. I've had three cars that came with no undercoating what so ever, just the factory paint on the underside, and just the occassional fresh water rinse and yearly cleaning of the underside prevented any rust what-so-ever for 11 years or more on all three. (I lived just outside the Salt Road Belt, MD, NC, CA, PA is barely in it).

Repairing the floor pan is always easier the earlier you do it. Just remember to keep bare metal coated and water out of the nooks and crannies.

Sounds like you need to clean the bottom of your XJ. Then use a wire brush to brush away the crust on the edges of the sheet metal. Get something to coat any exposed metal, lots of people will moan when you say your using Rustoleum paint on a car, but its a lot better than doing nothing at all and its cheap and pretty darn tough. Spend the $10 on 2 small cans of Rustoleum primer and paint and a brush, with some sand paper and touch up any paint problems underneath.

Finally sealing up the underside, this looks like where the XJ is pretty weak, there is a lot of nooks and crannies on the underside of the XJ that water can get trapped in and spend a long time before it evaporates. I'm considering sealing up all those nooks and crannies on the underside of my XJ after I finish the floor pan patching, get some seam sealer and running it all along the edges of the crossmembers and frame rails, work it in, like putty with my finger, to seal water out of those areas. It looks all the rust I have on my USED XJ, started from those nooks and crannies that held water in there and it didn't evaporate right away like the rest of the floor.

If you've got rust already, you have to get rid of it. The reason they call RUST CANCER, is because it acts just like cancer, it continues to grow until it consumes the host, even if you get rid of it, if you leave behind just a tiny bit, that only slows it down and it starts to grow again.

If the rust is bad, you have to cut it out, all of it, cut back to good metal, then repair the hole with patch metal.

If its just surface rust, you have remove it all;
*Grind it down, all the way to fresh metal underneath.
*Brush it off with a wire brush and sandpaper.
*Dissolve it with Naval Jelly.

There is Rust Neutralizer , which chemically reacts with the rust. It doesn't work as well as totally removing the rust, the rust can and often does start again, but it may put off the continuing rusting for years. Obvsiously knock off as much rust as possible then use this stuff, then paint an seal it, to keep the moisture out.

Undercoating, Ziebarts and Bar & Chain Oil, help keep a well protected underside even better protected. Remember, these things don't last and either wash away or let water in underneath them and the rust starts. You have to redo these every year or couple of years as well.

My USED XJ underside looked fine, dirty, but all the undercoating looked fine. When I started to tap around with a claw hammer, I had chunks of undercoating falling away with the rusty metal. So my floor either rusted from the cabin side out (very possible considering how poorly the prevous owner cared for the vehicle) or moisture got past the undercoating and it hid the rust as it rotted out the big holes in the floor pan. You still have to keep undercoating clean and moisture free.
 
I'm slowly becoming a rust expert - thanks for all the good advice everyone - i pulled back the cargo area carpet today - Ahhh!

I will post pictures on kodak.com and link to them in a few minutes - actually not as bad as I was picturing, and by the looks of the "frame" supports, those look great, nearly rust-free.

Father took a look, and said, "just screw some tin over those holes." No thanks pop, i'll at least try to repair it somewhere in between a band-aid and a complete restoration!

HERE'S THE LINK TO THE FLOOR PICTURES - what do you think??? is it doable??

http://www.kodakgallery.com/BrowsePhotos.jsp?&collid=88347545808.50177545808.1143666262050&page=1&sort_order=0&albumsperpage=12&navfolderid=0&ownerid=0

doesnt seem all that bad - but even where there is no surface rust on top, to tap it sounds a bit light, like above the gas tank must be rusted on the surface...

QUESTION: how difficult is removal of the gas tank?
 
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Can't see the pics, you need to log-on to view the site.

Gas tank is not that difficult, but like everything on the underside, bolt sieze up from corrosion. I had to heat the strap bolts with a torch to get them to come off without twisting off the bolt. Be very careful with a torch around the tank, make sure its sealed up, everything is well ventilated and no fumes. Or just hacksaw off the strap bolts and get a new set.

Did you ask your father what your suppossed to do when the rust holes grow bigger than the tin you screwed over them??? If I remember my physics correctly, the tin patch will fall out. Take a couple of hours and cut out the rust and clean & treat the metal and seal up the patch correctly.
 
I used stainless pop rivets and self tapping screws on my patches and they have held up very well. Now however due the extent of the rot I have decided to replace the entire floor. You can buy premade/formed floorpans for about $600 delivered, thats the entire front and rear. The pans only cost about $300, the rest is S&H, so I decide to fabricate my own out of 18 ga.
I have welders, bead roller/flanger, compressor and all the other tools to do the job correctly.
I figure while the rear pan is out it will be a good time drop the gas tank and sandblast the rails, crossmembers and any other rusted surface. It will be much easier to take care of while the "pan" is out.
If you don't have them...invest in a quality set of ,or at least a few of the size you will be using...drill bits...the job will go much easier if you are not breaking a bit every couple of minutes.
 
sorry about the pics - does anyone know of a site that you can host the pictures easily?

i'm def. going to wire brush, use rust converter, and cut away the rust....the old man has lost it!

i'm also going to use herculiner and do the whole interior floor - so, i'm going to really try to prep. the undercarraige really well too. maybe not quite as much brushing/cutting, but lots of rust converter, and maybe a coat of undercoating too.

i think cleaning up the interior, patching, sealing, and herculiner will really seal things up nicely - then undercoating the bottom should keep me relatively rust-free for the next 3-5 years....rust is my enemy now, i've declared war, going to coat the underneath with chain oil before every winter as well.
 
What about under the seats?

So far yours is worse than mine, I have a couple of 1/4" holes on the rear deck, a little surface rust that can be quickly ground down.

My floorpan is where most of the damage is at.

*A small hole, 2" square just above the frame rail on each side of the rear passenger seat footwell.

*A 8"X4" hole just above the frame rail in drivers footwell.

*A huge 16"X10" hole on the front passenger footwell, it climbs up the transmission tunnel about an inch or two. Its started to rust under the rail for the front seat, I may have air chisel that rail out, to fix the hole and then weld the rail back in.

The base of the seats, where the rear seat bolts are (for the front seat) has a lot of rot, 3 or 4 holes on each side from 12"X6" to 2"X2".

You might want to poke around the floorpan under the seats, its usually worse than the rear deck.
 
yeah - i know i'll have huge holes under passenger seat and above muffler....that's for another day.

i"m starting with the cargo area and working forward with the prep work/patches.

have you taken any pictures? when do you plan on restoring?
 
I'd prefer not to use the word Restoring, I'm fixing up my XJ. I hope to RESTORE my '69 Charger one day. Restoring is a far more extensive process.

I've got some pictures, I'll post them, maybe tonight, I have to go on a business trip tomorrow, so it may not be until next week.

I've got the entire interior removed save the dash, headliner and plastic trim around the headliner/upper pillars. I found $3 in change and bills, an ear ring, broken glass and an assortment of nick-nacks.

I've only just finished cleaning out all the years of dirt out of the vehicle from the prevous owner. I was surprised to find that the carpets are a silver gray, not the Muddy Brown when I bought it, Muddy water flowed out of those carpets for an hour under the hose in the driverway.

I had to wash the car several times to get all the dirt and grime off the paint. I washed the roof and rear hatch 4 times with a bug removal sponge
and a 1 part Simple Green 3 parts soap and water mixture to finally get all the grime off the paint. Each time I did it, rinsed it and let it dry I still found grime somewhere on the roof or hatch.

There was literally 1/2" thick mud and crud accumulated in the front of every door jamb (How many times do you open a door before you decide you should clean that crap out?) There was a 2" compost pile over the lip of the rear hatch, from the gulley all the way up to the top of the lip with the rear deck, you couldn't open the rear lift gate without rotted leaves and compost falling onto the deck and bumper.

I'm amazed the paint did NOT peel away on this vehicle, its in good shape, considering, a few touch ups here and there and polish it should look fine. I've polished and waxed one rear quarter panel, the paint looks fine there now and it is smooth again. The rest of the vehicle, the paint is a little dull, but rough to the touch, and if you look close you can still see the top layer is a very light grimey oxidized surface.

The engine compartment, forget it, the guy never once tried to clean it, totally coated in mud and dust on every component. I found an old rag in there, an inch of leaves in the air filter box. When the guy told me that the brake light had been on for the last 50k miles, I opened the brake fluid reservour and found it totally empty, it even had mud in it, the guy looked surprised the brake reservour was empty, tells you something, huh?
 
thats a riot - sounds like a real xj lover.

im going to post pictures here as i go with repairing the floor pan, kind of a :

"poor man's guide to something in between a rust band-aid and a total restoration"
 
Dont get discouraged by what you see under the carpet! Mine was an absolute mess. I thought I was going to be patching some holes, but by the time I had cut away all the rust I was down to frame rails/crossmembers and the odd bit of good floor. The only part of the floor that was OK was the trans. hump. I welded in a whole new floor from the firewall to the hatch. I prolly spent about 40-50 hours on the job but it is solid now. It can be done.
 
thanks for the encouragement - after grinding with a wire brush attachment for my drill, and cutting away some of the holes - i can see it's definately doable.

i'd say about 20-30% of my floor is rusted and rotted out, but the good news is the crossmembers and "frame" areas are perfect, no real rot at all...so, my next 20 weekends are filled.

I'm cutting/grinding, spraying rust converter on areas that are impossible to cut or reach, and then patching with 18-20 guage steel. I'm putting roofing tar in between seams and using sheet metal screws.

Then, i'm going to coat the whole jeep floor, top and bottom, with rustoleum primer...

Then, i'm bedlining the interior, and undercoating the bottom....Should wind up being about $200 - rust repair is cheap, just very labor intensive!
 
bacelaw said:
Then, i'm going to coat the whole jeep floor, top and bottom, with rustoleum primer...
Just Primer? How about a Top Coat?

Remember the Rustoleum Rusty Metal Primer is for really rusty metal, if you use it on clean metal, the oils in the coat won't be absorbed by the lack of rust and it will cause the top coat to bubble up.

The Rustoleum Clean Metal Primer is fine for lightly rusted metal, it won't cause the top coat to bubble up.
 
good call on the clean metal primer - didn't even think of that.

and yeah, probably a topcoat on the interior - but for the herculiner to stick, i know it has to be scuffed up, so not sure if a top coat would just be overkill seeing as though it has to get scuffed after anyways.
 
bacelaw said:
i'm def. going to wire brush, use rust converter, and cut away the rust....the old man has lost it!

It's a matter of opinion.

To many folks (hell, even me!)... losing a 10-year-old vehicle to rust is just a part of the gameplan. In his day it was worse... GETTING a car to last ten years before it rusted to pieces was nearly impossible.

And, again, investing many hundreds of dollars, and/or many hours of time, to do the "right" fix on a ten-year-old car simply isn't worth it to many folks.

Den
 
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