Putting the new axels in this weekend

[Skipper51]

Sorry to hear you won't make it. Hopefully see you at Sierra Fest.

Thanks Eric. No more upgrades this year just wheeling.

 

[crazymoose1990]

I would have to agree with Eric, even though I never daily drove my Cherokee. It was actually more fun in my opinion to drive it totally stock.

Dont get me wrong I like driving it now but mostly now its only to get to the trail, which well isn't that often.

 

[Skipper51]

I would have to agree with Eric, even though I never daily drove my Cherokee. It was actually more fun in my opinion to drive it totally stock.

Dont get me wrong I like driving it now but mostly now its only to get to the trail, which well isn't that often.

I understand where you are coming from. It was a real challenge and a lot of fun to navigate the trail when it was stock. I just want to do a little tougher trail thus the build begins.

I have taken to heart input from everyone here and when the 33's are installed I will be moving on to making it look as stock as possible steering away from a lot of body mods. :soapbox:

 

[crazymoose1990]

Oh sorry Skipper, I was talking about on the road. Offroading mine never saw anything until after it was on 32s..

Wow that must have been crazy!!!!!

I loved driving my Cherokee on stock tires on road, it had alot of getup and go... Now with the heavy tires and rolling resistance it sucks!!!

Even with 4:88s and 35s

 

[Skipper51]

Oh sorry Skipper, I was talking about on the road. Offroading mine never saw anything until after it was on 32s..

Wow that must have been crazy!!!!!

I loved driving my Cherokee on stock tires on road, it had alot of getup and go... Now with the heavy tires and rolling resistance it sucks!!!

Even with 4:88s and 35s

In my first 99XJ, totally stock I made it halve way down Slick Rock down to where the river runs over the granite before I met some jeepers that told me to turn around and I almost didn't listen to them because I was having so much fun.
Anyway the reason the fluid was coming out of the radiator is the plastic tank separated from the metal.
What radiator should I go with?

 

[Skipper51]

Looked at two PnP this weekend and did not find the DS that I need.

Looking for a DS 32.75" long from a 96 ZJ part# 52098501 or one from a 93 -- 95 ZJ Part# 53008427

I'll keep looking at PnP but anyone have any other ideas?

 

[Skipper51]

Did not find a front ZJ front drive shaft in Sacramento this last weekend.

The ZJ93 - 95 front drive shafts only have a single-cardan joint at both ends.

Question: Does this matter? or do I need a double-cardan joint at the TC?

The distance from the TC to the differential is 34.25". Are there other options that would work?

The next ZJ front drive shaft that is longer is 33" and the next one that is shorter is 31.25". Will any of these work?

Rugged Ridge says it has a CV Rear Driveshaft that will work with 2-Inch to 6-Inch lift. How can they say that or am I trying to be to exact?

 

[831_xj]

A cv driveshaft hardly moves when flexing. You should use that zj ds if that's what measurements you got. It'd be the best fit. I will check my local pnps we have a ton of zjs. If I find one I'll let you know. I can buy it and ship it to you on your dime. Shipping to you should be about 20-25$.
Pm me your number so I can give you a ring or text if that works for you

 

[Skipper51]

A cv driveshaft hardly moves when flexing. You should use that zj ds if that's what measurements you got. It'd be the best fit. I will check my local pnps we have a ton of zjs. If I find one I'll let you know. I can buy it and ship it to you on your dime. Shipping to you should be about 20-25$.
Pm me your number so I can give you a ring or text if that works for you

Blondjon was saying that because of my differential angle that I will need a double carian so that leaves only the 96 ZJ part# 52098501 that will fit my rig the best.
If we don't find one this weekend I will just run a XJ front DS in the rear so lets keep in touch.

 

[blondejoncherokee]

Well I was saying if the pinion is pointed up , need to measure the pinion angle as it sits first, an cv shaft is perfect if say your ds angle is 14 and pinion is 11. Just hypothetical. Now say your piñon and t case output shaft where parrakl before, then you would not have had vibes. No matter what setup you run you still may have to shim regardless .

 

[Bryan C.]

The simple way to check the rear pinion angle is to just look at it. Does it point straight at the transfer case output yoke? Slightly lower is ok, too high not so good and you will need to shim it.

Just to throw this out there, I ran a WJ front shaft in the rear of my rig for about 3 months. The slip yoke on the shaft wore out pretty quickly and was clunking pretty good.

So the big question is this. Why not call Tom Woods in Utah and have them make you a shaft? It won't be cheap but it will solve your issues pretty quickly.

 

[831_xj]

And just to verify.. Where were you measuring from exactly?

 

[Skipper51]

Well I was saying if the pinion is pointed up , need to measure the pinion angle as it sits first, an cv shaft is perfect if say your ds angle is 14 and pinion is 11. Just hypothetical. Now say your piñon and t case output shaft where parrakl before, then you would not have had vibes. No matter what setup you run you still may have to shim regardless .

Thanks Jon for the clarification. I think I am a little gun shy right now and want as few glitches as possible so having a double carrion takes the chance out of the equation.

I will post up a picture with the driveshaft angle. I think the angle is OK but I don't have a angle finder so I don't know what the angle is.

 

[Skipper51]

The simple way to check the rear pinion angle is to just look at it. Does it point straight at the transfer case output yoke? Slightly lower is ok, too high not so good and you will need to shim it.

Just to throw this out there, I ran a WJ front shaft in the rear of my rig for about 3 months. The slip yoke on the shaft wore out pretty quickly and was clunking pretty good.

So the big question is this. Why not call Tom Woods in Utah and have them make you a shaft? It won't be cheap but it will solve your issues pretty quickly.

To tell the truth, I chose to get a front ZJ drive shaft because I am trying to recover financially from this new additions, so keeping it simple for now to buy a little time. I do like the idea of ordering one from Mr. Woods in the future though.

 

[Skipper51]

And just to verify.. Where were you measuring from exactly?

I went from the end, closest to the TC of the U-Joint, to the end of the U-Joint closest to the Diff.
I tried to simulate end to end of a DS. I had help holding the tape measure so I could get to the smart end and take a good look.
The measurement was 34.25" so minus 1.5" leaves 32.75".
These are the contenders:
33.000" ZJ 96-98 4.0L 42RE w/NP242 52098707
32.875" ZJ 96 5.2L 44RE w/NP249 52098501
32.870" ZJ 93-95 5.2L 46RH 53008427 *w/o CV
31.250" ZJ 96-98 5.2L 44RE w/NP249 52098379
31.250" ZJ 98 5.9L 46RE w/NP249 52098379
31.250" ZJ 96-97 4.0L 42RE 52098850

The under lined two will fit best but I feel safe with the #52098501.

 

[Skipper51]

I did find one like this

and it was a #52098501. Dang! When I first saw it I though I won the lottery looking at the number on the DS and the numbers on the paper multiple times. I couldn't believe it! Then I saw how it was attached to the front diff.

 

[GordoSmasho]

Honestly Tim. Just take your front shaft and swap it to the rear. Then you'll know if it works or not. Go from there. This hunt your on seems a bit OCD. Most people use front shafts in the rear. That way you only need one trail spare and you have front and rear covered.

I bent my rear shaft in Reno. We went to picknpull and I had my pick of 15 front shafts in the yard that were guaranteed to fit. So I grabbed the two most promising ones and called it good.

 

[831_xj]

I went from the end, closest to the TC of the U-Joint, to the end of the U-Joint closest to the Diff.
I tried to simulate end to end of a DS. I had help holding the tape measure so I could get to the smart end and take a good look.
The measurement was 34.25" so minus 1.5" leaves 32.75".
These are the contenders:
33.000" ZJ 96-98 4.0L 42RE w/NP242 52098707
32.875" ZJ 96 5.2L 44RE w/NP249 52098501
32.870" ZJ 93-95 5.2L 46RH 53008427 *w/o CV
31.250" ZJ 96-98 5.2L 44RE w/NP249 52098379
31.250" ZJ 98 5.9L 46RE w/NP249 52098379
31.250" ZJ 96-97 4.0L 42RE 52098850

The under lined two will fit best but I feel safe with the #52098501.

Ya I had a feeling you were measuring wrong. That's not correct. You should measure center of where the ujoint would be in the yoke to center. Not farthest from farthest. A stock front DS should be PERFECT if thats the case.
I too use stock fronts

 

[Bryan C.]

Honestly Tim. Just take your front shaft and swap it to the rear. Then you'll know if it works or not. Go from there. This hunt your on seems a bit OCD. Most people use front shafts in the rear. That way you only need one trail spare and you have front and rear covered.

I bent my rear shaft in Reno. We went to picknpull and I had my pick of 15 front shafts in the yard that were guaranteed to fit. So I grabbed the two most promising ones and called it good.

Great advice.

 

[Skipper51]

Thanks guys!
Yeah, after talking with Patrick we figured that a stock XJ front DS will work for me as a rear DS.
This does make sit o much easier to find and carrying only one trail spare for the front and the back is great.
Gordon what do you mean OCD? JK