- Location
- San Juan Ridge, CA
Sorry to hear you won't make it. Hopefully see you at Sierra Fest.
Thanks Eric. No more upgrades this year just wheeling.
Sorry to hear you won't make it. Hopefully see you at Sierra Fest.
I would have to agree with Eric, even though I never daily drove my Cherokee. It was actually more fun in my opinion to drive it totally stock.
Dont get me wrong I like driving it now but mostly now its only to get to the trail, which well isn't that often.
Oh sorry Skipper, I was talking about on the road. Offroading mine never saw anything until after it was on 32s..
Wow that must have been crazy!!!!!
I loved driving my Cherokee on stock tires on road, it had alot of getup and go... Now with the heavy tires and rolling resistance it sucks!!!
Even with 4:88s and 35s
A cv driveshaft hardly moves when flexing. You should use that zj ds if that's what measurements you got. It'd be the best fit. I will check my local pnps we have a ton of zjs. If I find one I'll let you know. I can buy it and ship it to you on your dime. Shipping to you should be about 20-25$.
Pm me your number so I can give you a ring or text if that works for you
Well I was saying if the pinion is pointed up , need to measure the pinion angle as it sits first, an cv shaft is perfect if say your ds angle is 14 and pinion is 11. Just hypothetical. Now say your piñon and t case output shaft where parrakl before, then you would not have had vibes. No matter what setup you run you still may have to shim regardless .
The simple way to check the rear pinion angle is to just look at it. Does it point straight at the transfer case output yoke? Slightly lower is ok, too high not so good and you will need to shim it.
Just to throw this out there, I ran a WJ front shaft in the rear of my rig for about 3 months. The slip yoke on the shaft wore out pretty quickly and was clunking pretty good.
So the big question is this. Why not call Tom Woods in Utah and have them make you a shaft? It won't be cheap but it will solve your issues pretty quickly.
And just to verify.. Where were you measuring from exactly?
I went from the end, closest to the TC of the U-Joint, to the end of the U-Joint closest to the Diff.
I tried to simulate end to end of a DS. I had help holding the tape measure so I could get to the smart end and take a good look.
The measurement was 34.25" so minus 1.5" leaves 32.75".
These are the contenders:
33.000" ZJ 96-98 4.0L 42RE w/NP242 52098707
32.875" ZJ 96 5.2L 44RE w/NP249 52098501
32.870" ZJ 93-95 5.2L 46RH 53008427 *w/o CV
31.250" ZJ 96-98 5.2L 44RE w/NP249 52098379
31.250" ZJ 98 5.9L 46RE w/NP249 52098379
31.250" ZJ 96-97 4.0L 42RE 52098850
The under lined two will fit best but I feel safe with the #52098501.
Honestly Tim. Just take your front shaft and swap it to the rear. Then you'll know if it works or not. Go from there. This hunt your on seems a bit OCD. Most people use front shafts in the rear. That way you only need one trail spare and you have front and rear covered.
I bent my rear shaft in Reno. We went to picknpull and I had my pick of 15 front shafts in the yard that were guaranteed to fit. So I grabbed the two most promising ones and called it good.