Misfiring, where to buy injectors?

[Talyn]

I would really like to see this problem solved prior to the fan upgrade. While it is a worth while upgrade you should be able to fix it with your stock e-fan. You will be throwing another nut into the mix. Besides, you already have the timer and once it is installed you won't have to do anything to make it work with the ff dynamic fans. Also if you do get them I recommend you get the shrouds and mount them some other way than the nylon thru the radiator zip ties. Do a search on here for ff dynamics.. someone on here posted a good and easy way to not use the clips.

 

[muddeprived]

I would really like to see this problem solved prior to the fan upgrade. While it is a worth while upgrade you should be able to fix it with your stock e-fan. You will be throwing another nut into the mix. Besides, you already have the timer and once it is installed you won't have to do anything to make it work with the ff dynamic fans. Also if you do get them I recommend you get the shrouds and mount them some other way than the nylon thru the radiator zip ties. Do a search on here for ff dynamics.. someone on here posted a good and easy way to not use the clips.

Alright I'll wire up the stock fans and see how that does. If there's little to no improvement then I'll order up the fans.

http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1010466&highlight=dynamics

 

[Talyn]

I had a thought earlier today. Have you tried a seafoam treatment on it? I remember a TSB on cylinder misfires and carbon build up on the valves.

 

[muddeprived]

I had a thought earlier today. Have you tried a seafoam treatment on it? I remember a TSB on cylinder misfires and carbon build up on the valves.

Last time I did it (intake) was last year. I poured a can in the gas tank a few months ago.

 

[MrJCRod]

http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1022169&page=3

post #38. I leave the fan on in town and only turn it off on the highway. The electric fan blows on the injector side of the engine bay and combined with the hood vents I put in I completely got rid of my heat soak problems. I like the idea of the timer but since air flow is constant on the injector side of the engine I have no need for it... that heat soak issue bothered me to no end but now I haven't had one issue. With the way I wired it I have no check engine light on and when I do turn the fan off the computer takes over and still controls it from temerature and a/c pressure.

 

[muddeprived]

http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1022169&page=3

post #38. I leave the fan on in town and only turn it off on the highway. The electric fan blows on the injector side of the engine bay and combined with the hood vents I put in I completely got rid of my heat soak problems. I like the idea of the timer but since air flow is constant on the injector side of the engine I have no need for it... that heat soak issue bothered me to no end but now I haven't had one issue. With the way I wired it I have no check engine light on and when I do turn the fan off the computer takes over and still controls it from temerature and a/c pressure.

So basically you wired up the fan to have a switch and be able to manually turn it on and off? How does this cure your misfire?

 

[muddeprived]

I asked FFD about wiring up their fans with the delay and this is what they said:

Hi Chris,

We suggest you run our set up without. We do not set our systems to cycle the fans when the ignition is off because it really doesn't do anything. Once the engine is shut off, the water pump will not circulate water through the block any more, so having the fan run won't cool the water that is in the engine.

Hope that helps and if you have any other questions let us know.

Thanks!
FFD

Now when he says this, it makes me think wiring up the stock fan with the delay will not help much but I'm gonna give it a try and see.

 

[muddeprived]

Also would it hurt to throw in a 180 or 195 thermostat?

 

[Talyn]

Last time I did it (intake) was last year. I poured a can in the gas tank a few months ago.

I would go ahead and do a sea foam treatment through the intake. Pour it in when hot and running, let it sit 20 minutes the drive it like you stole it.

Also would it hurt to throw in a 180 or 195 thermostat?

Dont do it. No reason.

 

[winterbeater]

What do you mean by 180 or 195? What do you think you have now? 195 is standard and that is needed to run right. Don't deviate from the 195. Bad gas mileage, poor heat, carbon build up, cat converter clog up, cylinder wall wash down, etc.

As for delay timer or no, why do you think we suggest to run the fan after the motor is shut down? It is not to cool the block. It is to cool the fuel rail and injectors and to blow heat from the exhaust header away.

 

[muddeprived]

I would go ahead and do a sea foam treatment through the intake. Pour it in when hot and running, let it sit 20 minutes the drive it like you stole it.

Dont do it. No reason.

Alright I went outside to wire up the timer. it wasn't as bad as I thought it was, but thanks to you and Joe for explaining it crystal clear.

But anyways, I hooked up everything like this:

JP3 begin
JP4 A
JP5 +

+ wired to postive battery terminal
- wired to negative battery terminal
tgr wired to dark green/WT wire
N/O to negative port on timer
Com wired to dark blue with pink tracer


When starting it up, the fan runs right off the bat. it usually doesn't run when i first start it up. When i shut it down, the fan stops but the delay timer led light stays on for whatever time i have it set for which is 60 seconds. So the fan is not staying on when I shut off the jeep and it runs as soon as I start it cold or hot.

Did i do something wrong?

 

[96XJ_4.0]

Someone want to show me where I posted for the OP to "GUT" the cats?!

Cause I can't seem to find it.

Anyways. Whatever...


GOOD LUCK MAN.!

 

[winterbeater]

The fan relay is switched on when it is grounded. This is backwwards from most wireing, but that is how it is set up. So you are somehow grounding the wire from the Jeep fan relay. Do you have a multimeter?

 

[muddeprived]

The fan relay is switched on when it is grounded. This is backwwards from most wireing, but that is how it is set up. So you are somehow grounding the wire from the Jeep fan relay. Do you have a multimeter?

Yeah I have one downstairs. What should I do with it?

 

[winterbeater]

Looking at my 2000 wiring diagram, the dark blue / pink wire is the ground. So without reading this whole epic thread, I suspect that you want to hook up the DB/PK wire to the TGR (trigger), and the COM to a ground.

Then you will need to add the diode when your CE light comes on.

 

[winterbeater]

Yeah I have one downstairs. What should I do with it?

Disconnect the gr/wt and db/pk wires from the timer. Then check the com port on the timer to see if it is grounded. One meter wire on the com port and the other on your battery negative if you can reach it or any other good body ground. That is with the meter set on ohms. If you show continuity to ground, that is why the fan runs all the time with that hookup.

 

[muddeprived]

Looking at my 2000 wiring diagram, the dark blue / pink wire is the ground. So without reading this whole epic thread, I suspect that you want to hook up the DB/PK wire to the TGR (trigger), and the COM to a ground.

Then you will need to add the diode when your CE light comes on.

I have the DB/PK wired to the com and dg/wt (fuel pump) wired to the tgr. This is what I was told to do but is this wrong?

 

[muddeprived]

Looking at my 2000 wiring diagram, the dark blue / pink wire is the ground. So without reading this whole epic thread, I suspect that you want to hook up the DB/PK wire to the TGR (trigger), and the COM to a ground.

Then you will need to add the diode when your CE light comes on.

So the N/O, "-" port, and com are all grounds?

+ to positive battery terminal

- to negative battery terminal

tgr to dark blue / pink wire

com to ground

N/0 wired to negative port on timer

also the JP5 will have to be change to " - " correct?

 

[winterbeater]

I have to go pull this up on my 2 monitor computer. I see that I was wrong about the TGR. That is to start the relay timer. On post #75, you posted where someone had wired one up with detail instructions. Did you hook your up the same way? I'm gonna go multicomputer now, but I'll be right back. Hang on.

 

[MrJCRod]

So basically you wired up the fan to have a switch and be able to manually turn it on and off? How does this cure your misfire?

The heat soak is caused by heat from the exhaust affecting the fuel in the rail and especially the # 3 cyl. At idle or in traffic there is little to no airflow under the hood except from the mechanical fan which is more on the passenger side. With my electrical fan running constant, there is air coming in to the engine compartment forcing the hot air out my hood vents and also cooling the fuel rail. Being that the electric fan is on the driver side along with the exhaust and fuel injectors. It's not about cooling the coolant. It's about moving the hot air out and cooling the rail and injectors with airflow... Same idea as running the fan for a minute after shutting off the engine, it's to clear out the hot air and prevent the fuel from boiling causing vapor lock... I just do it while I'm driving and if I feel it's real hot I'll turn the key back on for about 20 seconds to blow the hot air out. I haven't had to do that yet but with my set up I could if needed...