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MagicNelson's 99XJ Build "Josephine"

MagicNelson

NAXJA Forum User
Location
New Jersey
Since I recently became a member here after a few years of lurking, I figured I'd share my build. It's been 4 years since I bought my XJ and haven't really documented anything except for a few pictures but better late than never, right?

Ok here we go.

Mission statement: I will build this XJ using the best parts* I can afford to maximize both on-road comfort and off-road capability while maintaining an attractive appearance.
*best parts does not necessarily mean most expensive. The term "best parts" is completely dependent on the goals I want those parts to achieve.

Now that my mission statement is set, let's get started. Here is a picture of my XJ on the first day I got her. Note: I refer to my Jeep as "her" the same way a captain would refer to his ship or the way you would talk about a really great dump.

3u5yvypa.jpg


Named after my (recently deceased) great uncle Joe who fought in WWII in a Jeep, I called this XJ "Josephine". I added the "-ine" to the end to make it a she because referring to my Jeep as a dude just sounds a little....well you know. lastara

Specs on Josephine:
1999 XJ 4.0 AW4
HP Dana 30
Chrysler 8.25
118k miles

Things I inherited with this jeep from the previous owner:
2" aluminum lift blocks
Broken 1" coil spacers
Spray painted rims
4 holes in the front of the hood (still have no idea why they are there)
Bald tires
Leaky brake cylinders
Very minimal rust

Since brakes are kinda important, fixing the leaky cylinders was the top priority. It was my first encounter with drum brakes but I did one side at a time and it went smoothly. (About a year later, I did the KJ disc brake conversion and haven't looked back).

Next order of business was the suspension and tires. When deciding on a setup, I thought hard about my goals for Josephine. This is when I came up with my mission statement.
The setup I chose to go with was a 3" kit from Rough Country with full leaf packs and new coils and run a 31" tires on TJ rubicon moab rims. At this time, I was a college student working part time so funds were limited and this setup seemed to meet my mission statement. 3" and 31s seemed to be the cutoff before dropping a lot more $$ into things like SYE, trackbar, control arms, etc.

It took me about 2 full days to install the lift by myself. This was the first time I ever worked on a suspension and I learned a ton along the way. Broke plenty of bolts, used a couple cans of PB Blaster, threw a few hammers in frustration, cursed a lot, had a few bloody knuckles, etc. but it turned out pretty nice.

ydumu5u5.jpg


I had vibes but a T-Case drop fixed that. Not without a fight of course. I broke 1 bolt and couldn't get either stud out so I ended up drilling and tapping 3 out of 4 crossmember bolts. Not fun.

After the lift, my next priority was recovery points front and rear. I added a Reese hitch and Iron Rock Offroad's front tow hook bar.

ysahupaz.jpg


Once the recovery points were covered, I needed to add some armor. I was lucky and found some JCR Stage 2 rock sliders on Craigslist. They just needed a fresh coat of paint and hardware. Not a problem since I worked at a hardware store at the time.

nede5uve.jpg


The guy I got the rock sliders from threw in a Hi lift jack for free because it needed to be rebuilt. So I rebuilt it and mounted it using my spare tire mount.

y6y6aheh.jpg


In search of a ZJ gas tank skid, I made a trip to the local pick n pull and scored one for $10. It took me a few hours to get out because of rusted bolts but it was worth the frustration. I don't think I have a picture of it installed but you guys know what a gas tank skid looks like.

The transfer case skid was the next one on my list. I forget the brand, but I bought one off eBay for like $75 or something. It works great.

Josephine stayed like this for a couple years and served me well. I kept up with routine maintainance and saved my money for school. I drove her 1200 miles west to Springfield, Missouri where I finished my Undergrad in Business & Marketing. During my stay in Springfield, I made a trip to Southern Missouri Offroad Ranch (SMORR) and had a blast. The fisheye picture above is actually from that trip.

I graduated in May 2013 and made my way back to the great NJ. Josephine did great cruising at 75 the whole way. Averaged about 20mpg.
That summer, I did some wheeling and bent my front bumper and passenger side fender. I was able to find a 99xj in the same color blue being parted out on Craigslist. I took a drive and picked up a new fender.

For the bumper, I decided to use it as an excuse to upgrade. I did a lot of researching and wanted to get a winch bumper if I was going through the expense of upgrading. I was lucky to find an ARB Bull Bar for a great price from a member on here who lived local to me. I think his name was John.

geguqanu.jpg


I was still working part time at the hardware store the summer after I graduated (tough job market) so funds were still limited. With this in mind, I took a chance on a $300 Engo 9000lb winch to go with my Bull Bar. I used it all summer with no problems until one of the solenoids quit working. I called up Engo an they immediately shipped out a new one. Great customer service!

I got my first full time job at the end of the summer and have been paying off student loans steadily since. Turns out I just went from a poor college student to a poor not college student so budgeting is still a huge factor in this build.

Josephine has 151k miles on her now and is still running and driving great. The suspension has settled and is broken in nicely. However, the JK shocks I used have been over extended and are in need of replacing and my tires only have about 10k miles left in them. That means, stage 2 of this build is approaching. Stay tuned to find out what's next!
 
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Thanks RCman. Yes, I will be attending NACFest. Looking forward to it!
 
I'm from Columbus. It's about 15 minutes south of Trenton if you aren't familiar with it.
 
Yup the market down there on 206. I'm further north by a good hour.
 
I got the wheels and tires from a guy on JeepForum. He had gathered up 4 brand new spares from TJ Rubicon owners in anticipation for his own XJ project. He decided not to lift his cherokee so I was able to buy them for a good price. I got the 5th rim and tire separately to use as a spare. They currently have about 30% life left in them after 30,000 miles so I will be shopping for tires in the next few weeks. Which is a great reason to start talking about stage 2 of this build! Because buying the same size tires is not allowed.

Here's the plan for stage 2:
- 4.5" total lift with 3 link long arms
- 265/75/16 Duratracs
- Spartan locker in Dana 30
- HD offroad relocation brackets
- JKS boomerang shackles
- JKS ACOS
- IRO Double Sheer Track bar
- IRO hack n tap SYE
- ZJ tie rod swap
- longer shocks
- bump stops

I'm still deciding on a 3 link kit. I need something that is essentially bolt on since I don't have access to a welder or someone who can weld so that limits my options. However, I'm liking the Rock Krawler 3 link kit. I would just have to find someone to weld in the crush sleeve. Everything else looks pretty straight forward. Thoughts?
 
You'll like the Duratracs, I have them on my ZJ in 245/75R16 and they've got a bunch of life left in them with 25-30k on them already. I just helped CTeunuch on here install some HD offroad relo brackets on his XJ, and it seems like a pretty rugged product- easy to install and well thought out.

I know that there's not much love for IRO here, but I've had good luck with their tie rod, and it's a lot beefier than the V8 ZJ one for not much more.
 
I've heard great things about the Duratracs. My buddy had them on his JK and they seemed to work really well for him. They were a lot quieter on the road than my MTRs and had siping.

I've had good luck with IRO. I would have added their tie rod to my order if I didn't already have a V8 ZJ tie rod. I pulled it from the junk yard back in the summer and it has a brand new Moog tie rod end on it ready to go. I'm just waiting til I lift the XJ more so I only need an alignment once.
 
I think the real question you need to ask is "Ultimately where do I want to end up or how much do I want to spend?"

That will drive everything else. For instance I wouldn't spend $200 on ACOS (and I have them) and use any IRO/ZJ products for steering. Beef that up, go OTK, and do that right.
I also wouldn't use a H&T SYE.
That's just two of the many things I see on the list.
 
Oh, and you don't need a 4.5" lift or 6.5" lift (with that ACOS) for effectively 31" tires.
 
I think the real question you need to ask is "Ultimately where do I want to end up or how much do I want to spend?"

That will drive everything else. For instance I wouldn't spend $200 on ACOS (and I have them) and use any IRO/ZJ products for steering. Beef that up, go OTK, and do that right.
I also wouldn't use a H&T SYE.
That's just two of the many things I see on the list.

OTK is a big jump at this stage. I understand the "do it once and do it right" mentality, but if you can't weld, OTK can be a big undertaking if you have to relocate track bar and sway bar mounts. IRO tie rod is a decent alternative and much cheaper. I agree with you on the ACOS- never really saw the point. I doubt many people are out there fine tuning their height on a regular basis.
 
4.5" of lift is a bit much for 32s (I think that's what 265/75/16s come out to).

Spartan locker is a good cheap upgrade for a D30. You won't hurt the D30 on those tires.

HD Offroad relocation brackets are a good idea as well as the boomerang shackles.

Personally I'd skip the ACOS and spend the money on the RE trackbar/brace/bracket combo. Really tightens up the front end.

Also spend the money on a true SYE over the H&T. Nothing wrong with it, and it does work, but the true SYE gets you a stronger rear output (not that you'll break it) which leaves you with less of a worry for WHEN you upgrade to 35s :D

Welcome to the club and don't be shy! Come over and say hey at NACfest!
 
OTK is a big jump at this stage. I understand the "do it once and do it right" mentality, but if you can't weld, OTK can be a big undertaking if you have to relocate track bar and sway bar mounts. IRO tie rod is a decent alternative and much cheaper. I agree with you on the ACOS- never really saw the point. I doubt many people are out there fine tuning their height on a regular basis.

You can just go OTK on the tierod side which is what really hangs down anyway. Just buy a Go-fer-it insert and have someone burn it in. Shouldn't be much effort on their part and doesn't mess with your steering/trackbar angles.

Keep it simple and go out and have fun.
 
RCman, I agree that knowing what I want from the build is paramount. Referring back to my mission statement, I want to maximize both on-road comfort and off-road capability. I realize I can't have the best of both without some sort of compromise so the question really comes down to: What do I want to compromise?
Since this is 90% daily driver and 10% offroad fun, I think on road comfort is more important at this time. When this is no longer my only vehicle, my priorities may change completely.

I have thought about an OTK setup (WJ swap) but again, I don't have the fabrication skills or tools to be able to pull something like that off. Most of the OTK swaps require some sort of relocation of mounts and whatnot. At 4.5" of lift, is OTK really necessary? I realize the stock steering setup will bind eventually but I should still be able to get plenty of articulation with the 3 link and long travel shocks correct?

Also, cost is definitely something I consider when planning a build. This XJ only has 150k on the clock and I plan to have it for at least another 100k. The body is essentially rust free. With that in mind, I look at Stage 2 as a solid investment in ride quality and offroad capability for the years to come.
 
Oh and I wouldn't spend $200 on ACOS. I scored a pair for $80 on Craigslist a few weeks ago :)
 
4.5" of lift is a bit much for 32s (I think that's what 265/75/16s come out to).

Spartan locker is a good cheap upgrade for a D30. You won't hurt the D30 on those tires.

HD Offroad relocation brackets are a good idea as well as the boomerang shackles.

Personally I'd skip the ACOS and spend the money on the RE trackbar/brace/bracket combo. Really tightens up the front end.

Also spend the money on a true SYE over the H&T. Nothing wrong with it, and it does work, but the true SYE gets you a stronger rear output (not that you'll break it) which leaves you with less of a worry for WHEN you upgrade to 35s :D

Welcome to the club and don't be shy! Come over and say hey at NACfest!

I know that 4.5" is a little much for 32s but after the relocation brackets and longer shackles, that's pretty much the minimum amount of lift I could get. I didnt want to get the "no-lift" brackets because I eventually want to be at 4.5" anyway even with larger tires. I would do 33s but I'm still on stock gears and wouldn't be able to regear til Stage 3 (no telling when that would happen). And my final reasoning is that I like my fender flares :D

Thanks for the welcome! Hopefully this will all be completed before NACFest!
 
I know that 4.5" is a little much for 32s but after the relocation brackets and longer shackles, that's pretty much the minimum amount of lift I could get. I didnt want to get the "no-lift" brackets because I eventually want to be at 4.5" anyway even with larger tires. I would do 33s but I'm still on stock gears and wouldn't be able to regear til Stage 3 (no telling when that would happen). And my final reasoning is that I like my fender flares :D

Thanks for the welcome! Hopefully this will all be completed before NACFest!

I know everybody has a different idea of what looks good, and to each their own. You will find many recommendations on here as to what fits and what hits.

For reference, I have a 2" lift with 31s. I can snap a picture if you want.

For 32s, and having read your list of items, I would go with a 3" lift. If you need more, you have the ACOS and lift shackles. This also serves to keep you from being on the line of needing new control arms and a few other items that are recommended for 4.5" and above. Will also keep you closer to the daily driver that you have now, and stated you wanted to keep it near.

Of course, this is what I would do and just my suggestion to you. Your build sounds great so far.
 
Thanks for the suggestion, Trailbst. I already have a 3" lift with 31s so the ACOS would be adding to it along with the lift shackles to net around 4.5". My purpose behind going taller is largely because of ride quality. My current shackle angle is somewhere around 80 degrees, my shocks are shot from being overextended, and I need to replace my control arms anyway. Rather than spending money on good quality short arms, I figured I'd skip that and go straight to long arms. Also, 4.5" seems to be the minimum recommended lift height for most long arm kits.
 
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