How to tilt axle back..Help please, the snow is coming.

[rockclimber]

Are you saying I need to remove the springs, disconnect the sway bar and the shocks?

unless you are 100% positive that the arms are adjusted so that there is no pre-load on the bushings, then yes. removing the springs is necessary.

My only issue with this is:
1)I have no jack stands.
2)I really don't have the cash right now to purchase said jack stands. This school year has taken a toll on my savings.
3)If I do get jack stands, I doubt they will be tall enough to reach the frame, and I have nothing to place underneath them to safely get them to that height.
4)I don't have spring compressors. I guess I could rent them, so that would be easy to solve.

doing this job without jackstands is not a good idea, however as long as you have a jack, suitable substitutes are available.

all you really need is to:
1.jack up one side of the front axle so the tire on that side is off the ground,
2.support the frame with a jackstand, stump, etc
3.remove the tire, shock, sway bar and possibly the brake caliper and steering at the drag link.
4.then jack up the other side of the axle, support that side of the frame
5.remove tire, shock, sway bar, etc.
6.drop the axle out as far as it will go, this will allow you to remove the springs without the compressors.
7.then you can jack the axle back up to ride height to set your caster, and adjust your uppers.

Bottom line, I'm ill-equipped. I am in college and due to a lack of space, had to leave the majority of my things behind other than some hand tools.

if you can get your hands on a jack and some stands, thats all you will need to make this happen.

I certainly don't want to destroy the bushing and have to replace it again, but at this point, it looks like I may have to just try to bolt it back up as it is and hope that won't be the case. I only need about just under an inch, so I think it's just a case of fighting that weight as I'm pretty sure the arms were well aligned to begin with. If it does get destroyed quickly, I'll be home and working for the summer in about a month and will be better equipped to go at it then.

if you have to make it last a month, then so be it. but when you get home, come back to this thread and do it the way I told you and you won't have to worry about it.

 

[Bjorn86]

Just an update, used a floor jack and a ratchet strap and got it lined up in no time. Passenger side went quick and smooth.

I measured all arms, all are equally adjusted.
We'll see how it holds up, worst case it wears out quick and I'm out $10. I'm going to hold off on the lowers until I get home and can SAFELY do it.

Thanks for all the help!

 

[rockclimber]

I measured all arms, all are equally adjusted.

this means absolutely nothing. the chance that the factory CA mounts were welded in the exact same place is slim to none. length of the arm does not matter, that is why you measure the rear axle to front axle on both sides to adjust your lowers, and then set your pinion angle/caster with ONE upper, then adjust the other upper until the bolt slides in easy and there is no pre-load on the bushing.

We'll see how it holds up, worst case it wears out quick and I'm out $10. I'm going to hold off on the lowers until I get home and can SAFELY do it.
Thanks for all the help!

good call, hope it works out for you.

 

[BotakBeng]

I've got a couple questions/concerns:
1) I have heard/read that removing both UCA's poses some sort of safety issue with the axle rolling out or something along those lines, potentially falling on me.
2) I am hesitant to start adjusting my arms and messing with the caster, both of which were fine before I started doing this. The worn bushings may have thrown my caster off a bit though. I simply wanted to replace the worn bushings.

Im thinking the reason it is so far off is because of how worn out the old bushings were: the axle side bushing was ripped in the back, letting the axle roll forward on that side, the rear bushing was ripped in the back as well, which seems like it would allow the arm to travel forward and assist in twisting the axle forward. When I disassembled it, this is how it was sitting, now that there are new bushings in both ends, I need to make up for the 1/2" of play in each bushing, probably where my ~1" is coming from (Does this make sense??) :dunno:. I'm assuming that the passenger side is equally worn, and I may be fighting that right now. I plan to change that out as well.

As it is, I wont be working on this today, there is 6" of snow on my driveway so I'm hanging out inside today.

I've always used cable or small chain rachet come alongs to move axles after bushing or spring jobs

Do this ^ or like many mentioned....ratchet strap.

 

[souske]

If you have to do it over again, here is a tip for gettting the bushings out. Take a chisel, and start denting the small end of the metal sleeve, alternating sides, so that it starts to resemble a bottlecap. as the sleeve breaks free from the mount, spray some lube in there, then they will pop right out with a 3lb. sledge.