CraserXJ
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- South Phoenix
Hey all, so this is what it looked like roughly six months ago:
Roofrack perfectly follows the angles of the body
I bought it in september completely stock. its a '91, 4.0 HO, automatic, D30 disco/D35, 126K, and awesome! The first thing i built was the roof rack. I needed to build something but hadn't settled on a plan yet.
I then started lurking forums like a cyber thief. Mainly this one and Jeepforum. So, this is what i did:
'86 waggy D44s front and rear. Fully rebuilt, nothing was reused.
Warn premium hubs.
Electric fan override power switch.
4.56s
SYE
Aussies front and rear.
IRO 6.5 long arm kit.
Tom Woods in the rear.
JKS swaybar quick discos.
315/75/16s (~35")
How she looks today:
I ran out of things to drive on to test the actual flex
So now to the problem. As you all know the front driveline already has the cardan joint. when driving around with the hubs unlocked she drives like a dream. lock the hubs in and the damn thing feels like its going to shake apart (i mean really badly) above 40MPH. I cant really change the pinion angle to point it toward the TC becuase then i get into some bad caster. I already had to adjust the top mount to get more caster so the thing behave with some respectable road manners. I would appreciate some input, opinions, other options etc... The way i see it i have 4 options.
1. take the front out, cut the knuckles off and turn them so that i can point the pinion at the TC. this is by far the least desirable option as this is my DD. It is also arguably the most difficult and would tax my abilities.
2. Lower the TC by the one inch that the IRO crossmemeber facilitates. Also, adjust the caster forward to try and find a happy medium between vibration and handling. I just don't think this will solve the problem. But, i could probably do this in an hour or so just to see.
3. Get a double cardan driveline for the front, meaning two cardan joints. One on the axle and one on the TC. This is my most preferred options, i am hoping someone on here has used a double cardan driveline before and has good things to say about them. ??
4. Suck it up, only use 4 wheel drive below 35MPH and deal with turning the hubs in and out every time i want to go faster. Main problem with this is i dont even have to be in 4 wheel drive, i just have to have the hubs locked and the vibration is terrible.
Any thoughts?
Roofrack perfectly follows the angles of the body
I bought it in september completely stock. its a '91, 4.0 HO, automatic, D30 disco/D35, 126K, and awesome! The first thing i built was the roof rack. I needed to build something but hadn't settled on a plan yet.
I then started lurking forums like a cyber thief. Mainly this one and Jeepforum. So, this is what i did:
'86 waggy D44s front and rear. Fully rebuilt, nothing was reused.
Warn premium hubs.
Electric fan override power switch.
4.56s
SYE
Aussies front and rear.
IRO 6.5 long arm kit.
Tom Woods in the rear.
JKS swaybar quick discos.
315/75/16s (~35")
How she looks today:
I ran out of things to drive on to test the actual flex
So now to the problem. As you all know the front driveline already has the cardan joint. when driving around with the hubs unlocked she drives like a dream. lock the hubs in and the damn thing feels like its going to shake apart (i mean really badly) above 40MPH. I cant really change the pinion angle to point it toward the TC becuase then i get into some bad caster. I already had to adjust the top mount to get more caster so the thing behave with some respectable road manners. I would appreciate some input, opinions, other options etc... The way i see it i have 4 options.
1. take the front out, cut the knuckles off and turn them so that i can point the pinion at the TC. this is by far the least desirable option as this is my DD. It is also arguably the most difficult and would tax my abilities.
2. Lower the TC by the one inch that the IRO crossmemeber facilitates. Also, adjust the caster forward to try and find a happy medium between vibration and handling. I just don't think this will solve the problem. But, i could probably do this in an hour or so just to see.
3. Get a double cardan driveline for the front, meaning two cardan joints. One on the axle and one on the TC. This is my most preferred options, i am hoping someone on here has used a double cardan driveline before and has good things to say about them. ??
4. Suck it up, only use 4 wheel drive below 35MPH and deal with turning the hubs in and out every time i want to go faster. Main problem with this is i dont even have to be in 4 wheel drive, i just have to have the hubs locked and the vibration is terrible.
Any thoughts?
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