Looks like IAC, found this with the google button "Flip the switch on the dash, this connects between vechicle ground and pin A12 of the ECU wiring harness. When the ECU sees the signal switched this way, the ECU increases IAC motor to maintain 1000 rpm, but only IF the transmission is in N or P."
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Extended Idle 97-01 Install
- Thread starter 2000XJSPORT
- Start date
ReverendOD
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Fenton, MO
Wonder if there is anyway to bypass it needing to be in N or P to keep the idle bumped up? I just stripped back the shielding of A12 and grounded it and mine works just fine, wish you could bypass the N/P deal though.
Begster
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Cape Cod/Boston, Mass
As far as I believe, you can't. But why would you need to? The extended idle is for when you aren't in the car, for when police officers need to be sitting for a while, and don't want to keep their foot on the gas. When you are in drive/reverse, you will usually be giving it gas anyways, which would defeat the need for the switch. If you are stopped and in drive, just kick it back to neutral.
Question for those who have done it. I got a factory extended idle switch and installed it. It works about 50% of the time. Usually it always works when I first turn the vehicle on, but if I've been driving for a while, it usually won't turn on.
I took the panel illumination wire and ground (orange and black) from the fog light pigtail, the dark blue power wire is spliced into the cigarette lighter/aux power circuit which is where my FSM says the oringal switch goes. And then I cut back the sheath of gray wire but didn't snip the wire, and just soldered the activation wire directly to that. do people usually just cut the gray #12 pin wire under the hood, and butt connect it to the lead coming from the switch?
Question for those who have done it. I got a factory extended idle switch and installed it. It works about 50% of the time. Usually it always works when I first turn the vehicle on, but if I've been driving for a while, it usually won't turn on.
I took the panel illumination wire and ground (orange and black) from the fog light pigtail, the dark blue power wire is spliced into the cigarette lighter/aux power circuit which is where my FSM says the oringal switch goes. And then I cut back the sheath of gray wire but didn't snip the wire, and just soldered the activation wire directly to that. do people usually just cut the gray #12 pin wire under the hood, and butt connect it to the lead coming from the switch?
ReverendOD
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Fenton, MO
Why not when on the trail or in traffic even in drive have that extra few hundred RPM to aid in cooling and even running the A/C? I understand its not the factory intended purpose. You could bypass the Neutral Safety Switch but then your Cruise wouldent work and I love my cruise control.... lol
Also if this hasnt been noted before the extended Idle will not kick in until you come to a complete stop. I tried bumping it into Neutral and rolling to a stop, as soon as the spedo hit 0 the idle went up.
Also if this hasnt been noted before the extended Idle will not kick in until you come to a complete stop. I tried bumping it into Neutral and rolling to a stop, as soon as the spedo hit 0 the idle went up.
whatevah
It's Yellah!
- Location
- Wilmington, DE
Extra wear on the trans/torque converter is one reason. That extra power has to go somewhere.
ReverendOD
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Fenton, MO
Your AC already raises the idle some another hundred RPM in D is not going to hurt the TQ converter.
Run the EX idle when in gear.
How about braking. The engine would be making more torque in Eidle and the slush converter would be locked up a bit more as you come to a stop. Taking in account how much bitching there is about stopping XJ with big tires. You wouldn't want to add any extra load on the brakes. brake Life expectance would be shorter. Dropping her in gear would raise hell with U joints too.
Ideas for OB1. Switch over to OB2. Yea lots of work for a fast idle.
A post stated that the stick and OB1 or 2.5 ECU don't have the right stuff for Eidle. IF THIS IS TRUE and I am going to try my 5 speed first including simulating the NSS to the ECU. IF this don't work how about installing a ECU from a Slush-O-Matic into the 5 speed. Sticks are installed auto XJ without switching ECUs. Why not switch the boxs.
Sorry you 2.5 no easy work around.
God made a few perfect XJ the rest have SLUSH-O-MATIC
How about braking. The engine would be making more torque in Eidle and the slush converter would be locked up a bit more as you come to a stop. Taking in account how much bitching there is about stopping XJ with big tires. You wouldn't want to add any extra load on the brakes. brake Life expectance would be shorter. Dropping her in gear would raise hell with U joints too.
Ideas for OB1. Switch over to OB2. Yea lots of work for a fast idle.
A post stated that the stick and OB1 or 2.5 ECU don't have the right stuff for Eidle. IF THIS IS TRUE and I am going to try my 5 speed first including simulating the NSS to the ECU. IF this don't work how about installing a ECU from a Slush-O-Matic into the 5 speed. Sticks are installed auto XJ without switching ECUs. Why not switch the boxs.
Sorry you 2.5 no easy work around.
God made a few perfect XJ the rest have SLUSH-O-MATIC
ReverendOD
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Fenton, MO
We have an old farm truck that has always run 1000+ idle and in 135,000 miles no transmission or u joint issues. Go Figure. I dont think the force were talking about here isnt as much as you think it is. I guess I should turn my A/C off when i come to a stop or drop it into gear then?
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whatevah
It's Yellah!
- Location
- Wilmington, DE
If your AC doesn't work at idle, you've got other issues. Before my evaporator died, I had no problems letting it idle with the AC on max for extended lengths of time.
I say go for it! Truth is, I've suspected for a long time that most of the people who are members of this forum are less than competent and the negative responses to your proposed idle kick-up while in gear finally confirm that. I was wavering myself until you mentioned the old farm truck.
As I said before, getting around the NSS/cruise problem should be easy. Reline those brakes and keep an eye on the old AW4 (extended warranty?) and you should be home free.
Good luck, although I probably wouldn't expect a lot of help from the hoi polloi on this one....
As I said before, getting around the NSS/cruise problem should be easy. Reline those brakes and keep an eye on the old AW4 (extended warranty?) and you should be home free.
Good luck, although I probably wouldn't expect a lot of help from the hoi polloi on this one....
And, on a slightly more serious note, it's your truck and you don't have to answer to anyone for whatever you may want to do to it, but I don't see much point in putting off this particular project by debating in this thread, because I think the odds of finding someone to agree with you are the famous slim to none.
Just my thought.
Edit:
Another fact: Sometimes we get a little uptight when this is supposed to be all about having fun. Your proposed mod seems to most of us to be a little dumb (well maybe more than a little) but I'm pretty sure it's not the weirdest project that has shown up in these pages.
Just my thought.
Edit:
Another fact: Sometimes we get a little uptight when this is supposed to be all about having fun. Your proposed mod seems to most of us to be a little dumb (well maybe more than a little) but I'm pretty sure it's not the weirdest project that has shown up in these pages.
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fyrfytr1717
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Turlock, CA
Sounds to me like one of your connections is loose, either on the ground side of the switch, or the PCM side of the switch:
If it was the Orange wire, the switch's panel light wouldn't work correctly but it would have no effect on idle operation.
If it was the Dark Blue/White wire, the indicator light wouldn't work correctly but it would have no effect on idle operation.
If it is the Grey (Idle Actuator) wire, your idle will not work correctly but the switch lighting should be fine.
If it is the Black (Ground) wire, the idle, panel light, and indicator light should all be having issues at the same time.
It shouldn't matter how you make your connection to A12 so long as it's a good connection. The Grey wire is not connected to anything at the other end so it doesn't matter if you splice it, cut it, tap it, or any other method. I used a wire tap with a bullet connector myself, probably the least reliable option on such a small gauge wire.
Unless your '99 FSM is somehow different than mine, I don't believe that the switch indicator light power source (DB/WT) is shared with either the cigarette lighter power or the auxiliary power outlet. Both outlets initially receive power from BATT A7, but the cigarette lighter power passes through a relay which is kicked on by RUN-ACC A31. This means if you connected it to the cigarette lighter power source (Red), the indicator light would work in the RUN or ACC positions. If you connected it to the auxiliary power outlet (Red/Light Blue), the indicator light would work all the time as the auxiliary outlet is a fused B+ connection and is always hot. The intended power wire (Dark Blue/White) is powered by RUN A22 which is only hot with the ignition in the RUN position. Extended idle operation should not be affected either way, but you could get a false indicator light with the Extended Idle switch in the "On" position and the ignition switch in any position other than RUN.
- Location
- Rainy side of Washington
I would bet on it not causing much trouble... 1000rpm vs 750 is not a big deal for the torque converter. The clutch isn't engaged, the heat should mostly be going into the fluid, which gets cooled via the same fluid circuit as the rest of the tranny... if you are too worried about it put an aux cooler on the tranny line. I'm not even going to get into the religious debate of whether it should go before or after the radiator
Begster
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Cape Cod/Boston, Mass
That is a good troubleshooting run down, thanks.
Ya, I actually went through a few more pages of the thread, and saw where someone pointed it out that the wire just ended at the connector.
Ya, my bad, I don't know why I saw cigarette lighter. I removed my cigaraette lighter and put a second power outlet in its place the same time I did the idle switch, so i got them mixed up. My wire is indeed tapped into the DB/WT wire going to the heater controls. I soldered the wires there, so I don't think there is a bad connection, but I haven't taken it apart again to check. I know the connection on the gray A12 wire is good.
One thing I did notice was one time I tried turning the switch on, I had the lights on, and it wouldn't work. The switch would be back light, but the yellow indicator light was not on. Once I turned the lights off, the yellow indicator light turned on, but it still did not raise the idle.
moparjim1987
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- pennsylvania
just did this mod on my 97 last night, works great. cant wait to try out the winch with the higher idle now....or lights.....or anything else for that matter.
I've suspected for a long time that most of the people who are members of this forum are less than competent and the negative responses to your proposed idle kick-up while in gear finally confirm that.
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He asked the question. We gave our answers. That's how it works around here. Or maybe we should put in the question "only people that agree with me need reply"?
===============================================
He asked the question. We gave our answers. That's how it works around here. Or maybe we should put in the question "only people that agree with me need reply"?
fyrfytr1717
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Turlock, CA
Now this sounds like a problem with having some of the pins switched. The operation of the fog light switch is based upon the position of your headlight/high beam switch and it sounds as if that is somehow affecting your high idle switch. Check the microscopic little numbers stamped inside the connector socket on the back of the switch to make sure you're actually hooked up to the right pins.
I'm sure you probably already saw it, but here is my original post laying out the pin-outs from back on page 10:
http://www.naxja.org/forum/showpost.php?p=244272197&postcount=149
ReverendOD
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Fenton, MO
I hear ya. Main reason i ask is because like on our farm truck we idle around the property line sometimes at night to check fences, equiptment ect and run alot of lights so kicking up the idle speed is critical. A few hundred rpm lets us pay attention to what were looking at and not on working the throttle when the truck hits a rut or small incline.
1200rpm lets us just putter around without touching the throttle.
