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DD Dana 44 advice TL:DR

P

Pronage

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Alberta
So im going to be starting my 1992 xj 2 door project soon and ive been doing some research on axles.

So far what ive come up with is.

TJ Rubicon Dana 44 front is a good bolt in ready to go axle but an hp 30 is stronger and better suited to put my cash into and the rear would need perches redone (however i am contemplating the rear coil conversion from rock crawler as a lift option)

JK Rubicon Dana 44 front is stronger with huge gears and again a straight from factory locker and is relativity cheap. However you will need to redo some of the perches such as coil placement and shock mount. As well there may (or may not) be a drive shaft fitment issue ( havnt found out if there is or isnt yet)

Then there is waggy dana 44's which are almost impossible to find and will need a complete rebuilt ( only pressing the pinion would be a problem there) and all perches would need to be replaced. ( would have to send out for that as i have about 20 mins of welding experience ha ha)

I could also go with a HP dana 30 built up and a older XJ dana 44 built up and have them bolt right in but my question really boils down to which pirate thinks is the optimum choice because each have there merits. JK would need a little welding but would be a nice cheap upgrade, hp dana 30 and 44xj would bolt in but needs to be built and waggy's are a pain to find and tj is a questionable upgrade. And keep in mind im trying to get this done asap for summer so i dont want to be hung up in a shop for weeks trying to build an axle ha ha.

My plans are a daily driver/weekend warrior. 6.5 inch krawler (triple threat with rear coil conversion?) Lift kit on 33's maybe in the future 35's.

Also if i left out anything or am wrong about anything let me know as i want to know.

kezy82.jpg
kezy82.jpg


TL;DR Which axles would you go with for an 92 XJ - TJ Rubi, JK Rubi, Waggy 44, HP30 and XJ 44 for a quick(er?) swap.

Posted on pirate but no answer ha ha


kezy82.jpg

 
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i am going with a ford hp dana 44 for the front and an xj d44 in the rear. i have to shorten the front, but i'm going to shorten it to be able to use the rubicon inner shafts so i can get off the shelf stuff.
i'll have about 500-600 into the entire front axle with new gears and bearings. not too bad. lightyears cheaper than a rubicon d44 and i believe it's stronger to boot.
 
Vanimal said:
i am going with a ford hp dana 44 for the front and an xj d44 in the rear. i have to shorten the front, but i'm going to shorten it to be able to use the rubicon inner shafts so i can get off the shelf stuff.
i'll have about 500-600 into the entire front axle with new gears and bearings. not too bad. lightyears cheaper than a rubicon d44 and i believe it's stronger to boot.
Click to expand...

is it really involved to shorten it> or could you pull everything off. find the pumpkin to outer length of the rubicon and cut to fit no bearings in the way or whatnot.

Im going to have to pay someone to do it cuz i have only hand and some power toold to work with ha ha. I could rebuild most of it but cant do the welding and cutting or pressing.
 
you need to size it to the shafts you want to use by cutting off the c's and moving then inwards and rewelding. Currie charges $300 to retube an entire axle, so i would imagine it should be cheaper than that. call around to some fab shops in your area.
a rubicon axle is typically 1500-3000, and i believe you still have the same crappy knuckles and stub shafts as a d30 for the most part. not worth it IMO.
 
Pronage said:
is it really involved to shorten it> or could you pull everything off. find the pumpkin to outer length of the rubicon and cut to fit no bearings in the way or whatnot.

Im going to have to pay someone to do it cuz i have only hand and some power toold to work with ha ha. I could rebuild most of it but cant do the welding and cutting or pressing.
Click to expand...

http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1049340
 
You can build a D30 to handle 33s no problem and 35s reasonably well. You have to stiffen the housing, so good truss, heavy diff cover, maybe sleeve the tubes. Beyond that, a full case locker like Detroit, ARB, or OX to strengthen the carrier, alloy axles, and sturdier coil mounts/control arm bracketry.

Or build a 44 and be confident with 35s and ok with 37s.

The biggest thing depends on your driving style and wheeling terrain. A heavy right foot would dictate that the 44 be your better choice, but reasonable throttle application could allow a 30 to live.
 
Darky said:
You can build a D30 to handle 33s no problem and 35s reasonably well. You have to stiffen the housing, so good truss, heavy diff cover, maybe sleeve the tubes. Beyond that, a full case locker like Detroit, ARB, or OX to strengthen the carrier, alloy axles, and sturdier coil mounts/control arm bracketry.

Or build a 44 and be confident with 35s and ok with 37s.

The biggest thing depends on your driving style and wheeling terrain. A heavy right foot would dictate that the 44 be your better choice, but reasonable throttle application could allow a 30 to live.
Click to expand...
for me, the 44 was worth it for the peace of mind. i m not light on the throttle by any means and i will be on 33's. in my case, the 44 is also a bit cheaper than what i can sell my built d30 for so it just made sense.
 
Vanimal said:
for me, the 44 was worth it for the peace of mind. i m not light on the throttle by any means and i will be on 33's. in my case, the 44 is also a bit cheaper than what i can sell my built d30 for so it just made sense.
Click to expand...

Ya i beat my rigs like a cheap hooker so i am pretty set on a 44.

Was looking for the cheapest and easiest build so i could get it going this summer hopefully but i think ill just go with a ford 9 and 44 up front maybe or say the hell with it and by these build up 60's with hydro assist and lockers near my place all built to go and figure out some flairs so i can drive it legally ha ha.
 
i gotta imagine finding old ford axles is a hell of a lot easier in canada than socal. i'd go with the 44 also.
 
Vanimal said:
i gotta imagine finding old ford axles is a hell of a lot easier in canada than socal. i'd go with the 44 also.
Click to expand...
Ford 9's are pretty easy. The right 44 is kinda hard.

Waggy is impossible and xj 44 is next to none as well ha ha.

the ahrd part is finding a matching ford 9 and 44.

I gata do my research on the ford 9 though as i think you have to flip it to get the right drop and then reverse your spindle or something ha ha.
 
Pronage said:
Ford 9's are pretty easy. The right 44 is kinda hard.

Waggy is impossible and xj 44 is next to none as well ha ha.

the ahrd part is finding a matching ford 9 and 44.

I gata do my research on the ford 9 though as i think you have to flip it to get the right drop and then reverse your spindle or something ha ha.
Click to expand...
matching?
 
chances are most axles wont have the gearing you need anyways, so that's moot point.
width... fullsize is fullsize for the most part, cant see much of an issue running any width fullsize truck 9" and any width fullsize truck 44. if you want non fullsize, you'll need to shorten anyways, unless you go waggy and xj44.
 
VAhasnoWAVES said:
matching in what way?

5 on 5.5 is easy to obtain.
gears can be adressed.
width may be a little harder...


if you go with chevy knuckles for flat tops, you can go 5 on 5.5 for a ford 9", or 8 lug and follow it up wit ha 60 or 14 bolt.
Click to expand...
superior axles for an xj 44 have a 5x5.5 pattern on them as well as the 5x4.5. this came in handy since i have a ford d44 with 5x5.5 in the front
 
Haven't replaced shoes yet, although I have to adjust them every few trips.
I would think explorer brakes would be worse, having the dumb wrap around dust shields.
 
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