souske
NAXJA Forum User
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44's are not needed for 33". Carry a couple spare shafts and you'll be fine.
I'm really only going to run 33's if I go 44's.
jeeperjohn broke pretty much every part of his d30 on 33's. main reason i went with a 44, because i don't think i'm much nicer to my jeep than he is.44's are not needed for 33". Carry a couple spare shafts and you'll be fine.
If your gonna run 44's at least step up to a 35" tire
Ya ill only run 33's if i get the tj 44 up front cuz to me its still a LP 30. HA AH
Stronger R&P, stronger carrier, stronger inner axle shafts...better than any turdy.
Stronger R&P, running on the coast side of the gearset,stronger carrier, stronger inner axle shafts...call it a chromed 30.
how many 30s and LP44s have you personally blown up?I know its slightly better because its a hybrid however for how hard i would push it i dont think it would hold up to 35's.
Its all from what ive seen around forums and builds and such so of course im not an expert.
a truss, a stout diff cover, full case locker, and maybe sleeving the tubes will go a long way towards making a 30 last. ring gear deflection is probably the number one killer of 30s. they just arent that rigid. but all that stuff costs the same amount of money for a 44 or 60.If you plan on running 33's and maybe 35's just polish your Dana 30 and be done, just make sure you run a truss and a selectable locker and or carry spare shafts and you'll be fine. But i will say that it mostly depense on how you treat your rig(as in heavy right foot).
how many 30s and LP44s have you personally blown up?
not trying to call ya out, but if you havent, might want to try it. the interwebs tells me my 30 should explode upon engaging 4x4, but it seems to do pretty well.
the FSJ 44 is LP, and thats a common swap. LP isnt the problem with the TJ44, its the outers... as someone mentioned.
a truss, a stout diff cover, full case locker, and maybe sleeving the tubes will go a long way towards making a 30 last. ring gear deflection is probably the number one killer of 30s. they just arent that rigid. but all that stuff costs the same amount of money for a 44 or 60.
the 78 bronco has the cast hollow tube sections for radius arms. not a desirable axle to start with unless someone already retubed it.No your right i havnt tried or anything. But i dont want to drop 2-3G's blingin out my 30 to find out i dont like it or worse it cant handle my foot. So i do my research and ask my questions and i have determined it to be very questionable.
Ive found a HP 44 from a 78 bronco with youkon shafts 4:88's diff cover, spartain locker, yukon super joints etc for 1600 bucks so i think the decision is made ha ha.
As well ive found a 14 bolt and D60 built with 5:13's and hydro assist right out of a buggy for 3g's
In either case i dont really see the point of polishing a 30 for the same price of a 44. You can find housings for dirt cheap all over so you might have to spend a 100 or 2 more for the build but end up with more strenght and the option to go bigger and badder. Seems redundant to me.
But thats just my $0.02
You can chop up my posts all you want...but you won't change the fact that all the parts I've managed to destroy in a D30 over the years are bigger and stronger in a TJ D44.:explosion
Marginally better, the only real advantage I see is deeper gears, while keeping 3 pinion teeth in contact with the ring.
If you can build a 44 for the cost of a polished 30, and you can build a 60 for the cost of a 44, then a polished 30 = 60?
Well, an LTD would only be donating a rear axle.
I love the people that come out and seem so indignant that someone would dare decide that a D44 would be a better fit for their needs than a D30. He wants a front 44. That's perfectly fine. I would like to step to a D44 front as well and I never plan on going bigger than 35s. I'm on 33s now. The extra peace of mind is nice.