Building up the D30?

[cal]

The WJ ends push the tie rod out somewhere just under .75". They are pretty beefy, my only gripe is their thread pitch.. 24x1.5 metric taps are stupidly expensive. I ended up buying the JKS trackbar and building a draglink.

I also had my coil buckets moved back .75" and in .5", so I should have ample clearance there. My biggest concern is clearing my diff cover, but I think I'm going to be ok.

 

[Kittrell]

I have WJ ends and the JKS DL to clear my Sway Mount. I had just the one WJ end on the TR, and with the other end you are supposed to use I couldn't get the clearance. I am hopping with this mirrored end it will go. The TR right now is just a custom threaded 1.25" piece of DOM. I have no idea how people can get things like the go ferit flip on the stock setup to clear.

 

[cal]

They move the swaybar links and grind the front of the coil buckets. I've helped a couple of local guys do that with flipped one ton steering. You don't have to remove as much as you would think. It's important to note too that the stock XJ steering arms stick out farther, so they have more clearance by default.

 

[Kittrell]

I am just running the Tera Flex knuckle, so I should be to stock spec in that department. The WJ arms are actually shorter?

 

[cal]

Yeah. I don't have an exact number, and I'm at the girls house tonight. When I go home tomorrow I can measure them.

On the stock knuckle you should be able to grind a quarter inch or so off of the coil bucket and clear.. and cut your swaybar link off, point it up a few degrees and weld.

Your so close though.. swap in a pair of WJ knuckles and get the brakes.. You have the rest of the setup already. You can get the knuckles for $70 shipped, pickup some brake parts and be done..

 

[Kittrell]

I was never very concerned with the brake aspect of the upgrade. I was more or less after the crossover, and it was just easier to get the Tera Knuckle. I might switch over sometime. As of now I just want to get the TR back over. If anything because it was alot of work to still have it sitting under. I'll look into the clearance when I get the new TR squared away. Hopefully a little grinding is all I'll need to do.

 

[Kittrell]

I have one of these on my DR right now. You can get the RHD number for this, so it's just a mirrored piece. I am hoping thats all it's gonna take.

 

[monkeyevil]

I was reffering to WJ's crossover setup.

I'm using WJ TRE's with a 1.25x.250" tie rod and high misalignment chevy ends with a 1.25x.291" draglink on my WJ setup.

As was I, this is my front axle many years ago....

Now that I look at it, I hate the 2233L on the passanger side... should have used the misalignment joints all around.

Now we have parts numbers of matching non-misalingment ends with the correct chevy taper, and threads both left and right. They look really nice as well.

 

[jonboy]

Not of mine, my axle is sitting on clean_rc's bench having a 30 spline ARB installed as I type, and my steering parts are on the back seat. I can post one up next week after its all back together.

jonboy here on naxja has the exact same steering setup, if he chimes in he has pictures of his setup.

-Cal

OK here's mine, sorry it took a while (haven't logged on for several weeks). Pretty basic, nothing too trick...
Warn hubs and alloys
Lockright
WJ brakes, knuckles and TRE's with JKS link
Chevy hi misalign DRE's with custom made link
JKS TB bracket and homemade trackbar with hi-misalign hiem at the axle end and a Rusty's poly end at the frame.
Rockcrusher diff cover, hoping it helps stiffen the case

 

[Frank Z]

here's where it's at now:

Maybe this has already been covered, but I'll ask anyway. Isn't the fill plug too high?

 

[cal]

Once he rotates his pinion up where it needs to point, the fill plug will be in just about the right place.