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Building up the D30?

Building up the 30 is a waste of time and money. ;)

I think I'm allowed to say that now.
 
cal said:
Building up the 30 is a waste of time and money. ;)

I think I'm allowed to say that now.

is yours under your jeep yet? :D
 
http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=97816

Knuckles rotated back for 12* pinion with stock caster, sleeved in 3" OD .250 wall DOM and professionally welded.

There's my housing. Today it gets a 30 spline ARB with Alloy USA 30 spline inners and outers, 30 spline timken unit bearings and CTM's. WJ knuckles with aftermarket rotors and calipers, .291 wall DOM steering links and chevy 3/4 ton ends, precision 4.88's, Crane diff cover, with a u-bolt style yoke.

Added with that a burly trackbar and the RE HD mount setup, hydro assist, some shiny new bilstien 7100's for the front with Barnett performance adapters and about 3 more paychecks worth of goodies, and there's nothing left on my 30 to polish. :)

If I could go back, looking at time and money invested, I'd probably have started with a 44. That said, I don't expect to break at all, but I could have built a lot more for less money and the same effort.
 
XJ_ranger said:
is yours under your jeep yet? :D

It's sitting on the bench with the gears next to it. It will go under the jeep tomorrow or Thurs.
 
If I were to build another dana 30 I would set it up like the one I sold when I went to a front 44.

WJ knuckles, 1-ton steering, aussie locker, TJ 297 shafts, spicer 760X joints, and 4.10's or 4.56's. I was comfortable with that axle with any 35" MT, but I wanted to go to a 36" Swamper 5.38's, and a 4 to 1 case... so I went with a 44.

WJ knuckles would be my first swap though, they are hands down the best steering and braking upgrade I did on the d30.
 
monkeyevil said:
If I were to build another dana 30 I would set it up like the one I sold when I went to a front 44.

WJ knuckles, 1-ton steering, aussie locker, TJ 297 shafts, spicer 760X joints, and 4.10's or 4.56's. I was comfortable with that axle with any 35" MT, but I wanted to go to a 36" Swamper 5.38's, and a 4 to 1 case... so I went with a 44.

WJ knuckles would be my first swap though, they are hands down the best steering and braking upgrade I did on the d30.

I would agree with that, except a good alloy shaft with full circle clips instead of spicers. I had originally planned to do exactly that to run 35's, but as many of my projects do, it snowballed WAY out of control. :)
 
cal said:
I would agree with that, except a good alloy shaft with full circle clips instead of spicers. I had originally planned to do exactly that to run 35's, but as many of my projects do, it snowballed WAY out of control. :)

My thoughts on this is, if your breaking stock 297 d30 shafts or 760's, then you probably would benifit from a 44. Not saying there is a line in the sand there. But usually the people that break shafts like that will start breaking ring and pinions, carriers, etc...

I would rather put that $$ alloy shaft money in a d44, than a d30. But that may be a personal preference.
 
monkeyevil said:
My thoughts on this is, if your breaking stock 297 d30 shafts or 760's, then you probably would benifit from a 44. Not saying there is a line in the sand there. But usually the people that break shafts like that will start breaking ring and pinions, carriers, etc...

I would rather put that $$ alloy shaft money in a d44, than a d30. But that may be a personal preference.

What you arent taking into consideration there, is that stock/spicer shafts are hardened, but the ears around the u-joints are not, and are very soft. Over time and *normal* use, the ears will stretch and egg out - spitting the u-joint cap and causing a failure. Some people weld the caps in place, others grind the shaft to fit full circle clips on them - but both are just small patches to a design flaw.

Even low end aftermarket shafts will eliminate that weak link. The only reason to go to a 44 is for a better ring and pinion, bigger brakes, or high-steer. You can get the brakes and steering on a 30 pretty easy.
 
You would not want to. WJ steering is better than Rusty's.
 
cal said:
You would not want to. WJ steering is better than Rusty's.

WJ stock steering is pretty beefy. We can build 3/4 ton and 1-ton stuff for the WJ setup, but if you get a good set of steering with the WJ knuckles I would run that till it's time to replace it... then look at your steering options.

We have a bolt in solution using dodge TRE's where the tie rod ends are comparable in strength to WJ ones, and the rods are stronger just because there are no bends in them. It makes it super cheap to replace the TRE's though.
 
monkeyevil said:
WJ stock steering is pretty beefy. We can build 3/4 ton and 1-ton stuff for the WJ setup, but if you get a good set of steering with the WJ knuckles I would run that till it's time to replace it... then look at your steering options.

We have a bolt in solution using dodge TRE's where the tie rod ends are comparable in strength to WJ ones, and the rods are stronger just because there are no bends in them. It makes it super cheap to replace the TRE's though.

I was reffering to WJ's crossover setup.

I'm using WJ TRE's with a 1.25x.250" tie rod and high misalignment chevy ends with a 1.25x.291" draglink on my WJ setup.
 
Not of mine, my axle is sitting on clean_rc's bench having a 30 spline ARB installed as I type, and my steering parts are on the back seat. I can post one up next week after its all back together.

jonboy here on naxja has the exact same steering setup, if he chimes in he has pictures of his setup.

-Cal
 
Thanks, how similar is this?

31061ae5.jpg
 
My ends are all flipped over the knuckle, but other than that its the same setup.

Going over the knuckle gives me more droop before I max out the lower draglink end, and raises the tie rod up a bit higher.

I guess more correct would be to say "over the arm" than knuckle, but you get the idea.

-C
 
Well, it's still technically the knuckle, so whatevers clever. I am trying to get my TR back OTK. I am thinking a combination of WJ RHD, and LHD ends will do it. With it just straight across in this configuration (Currie HD ends), I can't clear the buckets and sway bar brackets.

d67f26de.jpg
 
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