budget jeepspeed prerunner build

[IslanderOffRoad]

I have about 7" of unused travel and my shocks have never even come close to getting hot. They get just warm enough to function properly, and the heavy foot driving begins. I never understood would people wouldn't accommodate a longer shock for the same price for the sheer assurance factor of longetivity.

So you're saying I should go big with shocks even if I'll never use it.

 

[Mike1331]

So you're saying I should go big with shocks even if I'll never use it.

Yes, bigger shocks mean more oil for cooling, more oil means cooler shock, cooler shock means less fading and longer lasting

 

[slcpunk74]

the jeepspeed guys will run 16" shocks out back because the extra oil capacity will keep the shocks from melting down or fading even though you have to be bumped and strapped to 12" of travel

 

[slcpunk74]

just snapped some shots of what I got done last night...

got it sitting on the tires. I still need to tighten everything then mok up my shocks when they get here and bumps when I order them.

hard to tell from the pics but I need to shorten my uppers because they are way too long and my coil has a nasty arch to it.

 

[Skullver]

cool project, seems to be progressing nicely.

 

[slcpunk74]

cool project, seems to be progressing nicely.

thanks man.coming from you that is good to hear.

 

[slcpunk74]

ordered my foas almost 3 weeks ago and last monday I got a package containing One foa...Coilover!!! They sent me a 14" c/o instead of my 2 resis. Well so I sent that c/o to the guy who it wasa supposed to get to on wednesday and I sent an e-mail that tuesday askng where my stuff is... I have yet to hear a thing. I even put my phone number in the e-mail. I dont know so far not so buano.

On the bright side I got some 4" teraflex(I think) leaves and some wheels so in my attempt to keep the back a little lower then the front I installed the leaves. I will post pick of my anti-gnar stance...

 

[xcm]

i think everyone on the internet is sad to hear about FOA droppin the ball.... i for one was definately on the fence with them after the pirate4x4 thread.

 

[slcpunk74]

I am e-mailing them now so lets hope they can get back to me.

 

[Mike1331]

i think everyone on the internet is sad to hear about FOA droppin the ball.... i for one was definately on the fence with them after the pirate4x4 thread.

I couldn't find the thread that you speak of on pirate. What ball did they drop?

I'm starting to have second thoughts about buying some bypasses for the front from these guys.

I just noticed both of my shocks are leaking already at the connection between the resi tube and the resi. When I first got the shocks I thought it might give me some trouble as the connection point there looks sloppy with silicon/caulk (or whatever white substance they used) and the aluminum threaded connector that you wrap a wrench around to tighten the resi tube to the resi looks frail and cheap. I tried tightening it but it wouldn’t budge.

To FOA’S credit I am outside of the 6 month warranty and they did say if I sent the shocks in they would take care of the problem for free. However I must take care of shipping the shocks to them, these suckers are heavy and I’m sure shipping is a fortune, most likely half as much as an entire shock So I’ll prob. just figure it out myself.

I hope your shocks get to you soon and when they do check the connection at the resi to the tube.
I was able to get a hold of them immediately with this email address [email protected]


Good luck

 

[Skullver]

bummer, where exactly is it leaking from? Are they piggybacks or remote reservoir? Those reservoir caps are an absolute pain, on my SAWS I had to use a torch to melt all that loctite pipe thread sealant and I still ruined the cap. They are tapered pipe threads so it take alot of umph to mess with them, not sure how the foas are but I were you I would send them in, should only cost you around $40 for both, I have shipped quite a few shocks, just let out the N pressure and collapse them.
good luck and make sure you let us know how it turns out, I'll let you guys do some more testing before I even consider them
Chris

I couldn't find the thread that you speak of on pirate. What ball did they drop?

I'm starting to have second thoughts about buying some bypasses for the front from these guys.

I just noticed both of my shocks are leaking already at the connection between the resi tube and the resi. When I first got the shocks I thought it might give me some trouble as the connection point there looks sloppy with silicon/caulk (or whatever white substance they used) and the aluminum threaded connector that you wrap a wrench around to tighten the resi tube to the resi looks frail and cheap. I tried tightening it but it wouldn’t budge.

To FOA’S credit I am outside of the 6 month warranty and they did say if I sent the shocks in they would take care of the problem for free. However I must take care of shipping the shocks to them, these suckers are heavy and I’m sure shipping is a fortune, most likely half as much as an entire shock So I’ll prob. just figure it out myself.

I hope your shocks get to you soon and when they do check the connection at the resi to the tube.
I was able to get a hold of them immediately with this email address [email protected]


Good luck

 

[Mike1331]

bummer, where exactly is it leaking from? Are they piggybacks or remote reservoir? Those reservoir caps are an absolute pain, on my SAWS I had to use a torch to melt all that loctite pipe thread sealant and I still ruined the cap. They are tapered pipe threads so it take alot of umph to mess with them, not sure how the foas are but I were you I would send them in, should only cost you around $40 for both, I have shipped quite a few shocks, just let out the N pressure and collapse them.
good luck and make sure you let us know how it turns out, I'll let you guys do some more testing before I even consider them
Chris

They are the remote resi’s, and the leak is at the reservoir body where it connects to the tube.
Maybe I’ll just send em in after your testimonial on the issue.


This is a little aggravating that I have to do this already after 3 mild wheeling missions on these shocks. While I do romp in my rig pretty hard, my missions are of no comparison to a full on jeepspeed race like BITD.

I now have to remove them, ship, re-fill with nitrous (which isn't cheap around here), re-install and re-isolate the shock hole from the elements. Its this type of crap that makes something cheap suddenly become expensive.....Humbug

I’ll keep you guys updated on how they hold up for the second go around when its finished and I get back out on the dirt.

 

[slcpunk74]

They are the remote resi’s, and the leak is at the reservoir body where it connects to the tube.
Maybe I’ll just send em in after your testimonial on the issue.


This is a little aggravating that I have to do this already after 3 mild wheeling missions on these shocks. While I do romp in my rig pretty hard, my missions are of no comparison to a full on jeepspeed race like BITD.

I now have to remove them, ship, re-fill with nitrous (which isn't cheap around here), re-install and re-isolate the shock hole from the elements. Its this type of crap that makes something cheap suddenly become expensive.....Humbug

I’ll keep you guys updated on how they hold up for the second go around when its finished and I get back out on the dirt.

please do keep us in the loop but yeah I am not on my computer and I dont know how to retrieve my aol password so no tellin if they hit me back.

 

[slcpunk74]

so the word Im getting as of today is that my shocks have gone out and I will get my trscking number tomorrow... So I might actually get my shocks this week.

 

[slcpunk74]

I couldn't find the thread that you speak of on pirate. What ball did they drop?

check post 28 on page 2

 

[Skullver]

another option to save $ on shipping would be to take them apart and just ship the top cap/resi hose and resi cap, or if you don't want to take the top cap off you could send in just the shock body with the hose/res cap minus the shaft/piston assembly and the reservoir/floating piston/schraeder cap. I wouldn't mind seeing some internal pics if you do go this route, I heard something about cast pistons vs/machined billet that the rest use?

good luck either way


slc punk, what sort of valving did you go with? Do they sell the shim packs separate so you can fine tune them at all? Just wondering if they use compatible shims.
Good luck

They are the remote resi’s, and the leak is at the reservoir body where it connects to the tube.
Maybe I’ll just send em in after your testimonial on the issue.


This is a little aggravating that I have to do this already after 3 mild wheeling missions on these shocks. While I do romp in my rig pretty hard, my missions are of no comparison to a full on jeepspeed race like BITD.

I now have to remove them, ship, re-fill with nitrous (which isn't cheap around here), re-install and re-isolate the shock hole from the elements. Its this type of crap that makes something cheap suddenly become expensive.....Humbug

I’ll keep you guys updated on how they hold up for the second go around when its finished and I get back out on the dirt.

 

[slcpunk74]

slc punk, what sort of valving did you go with? Do they sell the shim packs separate so you can fine tune them at all? Just wondering if they use compatible shims.
Good luck[/quote]

I talked to the guy weeks ago and he said they had a specific jeepspeed style setup. The guy said it was extra firm compression and light rebound for the front so we will see how this works. Like I have stated before if the foas are not going to be up to par I am just throwing them on my dd for the bling " hey look at me I got resis" factor.

 

[slcpunk74]

BTW I have not revieved a tracking number yet

 

[Mike1331]

another option to save $ on shipping would be to take them apart and just ship the top cap/resi hose and resi cap, or if you don't want to take the top cap off you could send in just the shock body with the hose/res cap minus the shaft/piston assembly and the reservoir/floating piston/schraeder cap. I wouldn't mind seeing some internal pics if you do go this route, I heard something about cast pistons vs/machined billet that the rest use?

good luck either way


slc punk, what sort of valving did you go with? Do they sell the shim packs separate so you can fine tune them at all? Just wondering if they use compatible shims.
Good luck

Not a bad idea, I wouldn't mind checking out the internals of my shock as well and seeing if I could give em a little less rebound. I did light/med comp. and light rebound. If I could fine tune this set up I’d go with a little less rebound as my nationals are a little stiff. I’ll look first into what FOA would charge me to do this and if they offer shim packs to fine tune the shocks, then I’ll make the decision.

 

[slcpunk74]

BTW I have not revieved a tracking number yet

no shocks and no tracking number yet...