Backyard Customs XJ Build

[cgmrdc]

wow... fubar xj... thanks for actually give a constructive responce!

justin... you might look into an after market high steer set up thats designed for spring over YJs and such. I here its a common problem because the springs are right in the middle of the steering "path"

it routes the tie rod under the leaves and the drag link over them...

 

[veedubshafer]

tires dont rub or hit the fenders.


tell me what the problem is with the draglink?!?!

i have seen some other members with wagoneer steering bent up like this, what is so bad about mine?

it is steering setup from a wagoneer that is sleeved for extension and bent (with gussets) to clear the leaf springs.

this is my first attempt at steering for this sucker. no one gave any ideas for steering so this is what i went with. only the driver side knuckle is drilled and tapped for an arm.

ok, sorry about the drag link comment - I really think this rig is going to be sick once you work all the bugs out after the initial build - good luck with it all!

 

[jbjustin33415]

i didnt build the jeep to drive on the street. i built it to run through big water and mud holes here in south florida where we are below sea level, swamp riding. i might bring it to ocala in north florida once i get my trailer build, but i didnt build it to drive on rocks so ill see what happens.

some of you gave some sh*t ass repsonses and others were actually giving reasons as to why something is not going to work, not being a dumb "web wheeler" and pick at someone elses build when you dont even have your own build thread.

thanks for the constructive criticism, ill look into some steering setups for YJs.

 

[IslanderOffRoad]

some of you gave some sh*t ass repsonses and others were actually giving reasons as to why something is not going to work, not being a dumb "web wheeler" and pick at someone elses build when you dont even have your own build thread.

I don't need a build thread to notice that something is not safe.

Nominated.

 

[jbjustin33415]

I don't need a build thread to notice that something is not safe.

Nominated.

no, but you could at least give a reason why when you make comments or some advice.

 

[fubar XJ]

It should be fine as a trailered swamp-runner, good luck with the rest of the build.

 

[IslanderOffRoad]

no, but you could at least give a reason why when you make comments or some advice.

If you need a why you're not qualified to do that kind of work.

 

[jbjustin33415]

If you need a why you're not qualified to do that kind of work.

i am plenty capable of building and doing this type of work. maybe your not and thats why all your junk is bolt on....im done with your remarks.

well this build thread is here for others to view and use for ideas and whatnot, thats why its a FORUM.

i made this build on a budget and am using it to run in the mud and swamp, not drive on the street NEXT to you or climb those rocks NEXT to you.

 

[JeepAddict85]

run it til it breaks, then build it stronger. you've got a cool build, and if it works for you, run it.

 

[jbjustin33415]

well i got to test out the steering today. had to put in a new starter because the solenoid froze up. tried turning the tires while the jeep was stationary and it doesnt have a very good turn, there is some flex in the draglink causing it to not turn the wheels very far, i would say maybe 20* each way.

i am going to start over and find another way to do the steering. i was thinking of forking up the money for some high steer. i have a flat top on the passenger side but its not drilled and tapped yet. im gonna scavenge the junky this weekend to see if i can find a knuckle already tapped, but i doubt it. i saw a website for John Nutter or something that does machining of the knuckles for a decent price. would yall recomment this dude or what?

other question is that i only see 1" spacers for the high steer arms. i was out there with my tape and i was measuring around 1 13/16" i will need to clear the top leaf spring. how tall are the actual high steer arms? does anyone make a spacer that is bigger than 1"?

 

[logdog]

i am plenty capable of building and doing this type of work. maybe your not and thats why all your junk is bolt on....im done with your remarks.

well this build thread is here for others to view and use for ideas and whatnot, thats why its a FORUM.

i made this build on a budget and am using it to run in the mud and swamp, not drive on the street NEXT to you or climb those rocks NEXT to you.

Your absolutely right!! This is a public forum. You put yourself out there advice, comments AND criticism. Your not always going to like what some people have to say about you or your "build" but thats the risk you take when you put things on a public forum. Nobody here wants to see you or anyone else get hurt. Not everybody has a nice way of saying it. Grow thicker skin, or dont post. I admire your enthusiam and willingness to try things. But seriously...that thing looks dangerous...but what do I know? I might be talking out of my ass.

 

[whitneyj]

look into a dropped pitman arm to help reduce that draglink angle.
Also if you're going to gusset, run the plate from before the bend to after the bend, that's probably where you're getting the most flex from. With the gusset burned into the bend you're moving the steering forces to right where the bend starts and ends-which is just going to bend the metal back and forth until it tears. Glad to see your rig up on it's own though!

 

[fubar XJ]

well i got to test out the steering today. had to put in a new starter because the solenoid froze up. tried turning the tires while the jeep was stationary and it doesnt have a very good turn, there is some flex in the draglink causing it to not turn the wheels very far, i would say maybe 20* each way.

i am going to start over and find another way to do the steering. i was thinking of forking up the money for some high steer. i have a flat top on the passenger side but its not drilled and tapped yet. im gonna scavenge the junky this weekend to see if i can find a knuckle already tapped, but i doubt it. i saw a website for John Nutter or something that does machining of the knuckles for a decent price. would yall recomment this dude or what?

other question is that i only see 1" spacers for the high steer arms. i was out there with my tape and i was measuring around 1 13/16" i will need to clear the top leaf spring. how tall are the actual high steer arms? does anyone make a spacer that is bigger than 1"?

You can drill and tap your own flat-top knuckle. You'll need to buy a high-steer arm, position in atop the passenger knuckle and mark the three holes, drill them (IIRC, it's a 9/16" hole) Tap the holes, use the cone washers or whatever the knuckle comes with, torque it down hard, maybe 125 ft lbs. You can even run a few stitch-welds along both the sides of the arm/knuckle and bolt heads to knuckle. This will run your drag link above the leafs, so make sure there's clearance for it. You can run a thick spacer washer if needed, but keep it as short as possible to reduce leverage. I've seen guys run a welded tab on the DL to sandwich the bolt in at the knuckle too for strength.

Once again, not an ideal set-up for the street, but I've seen this run a few times and it works if your work is quality. Good luck.

 

[4LowandGo]

I've heard from a few folks here and there that highly recommend John Nutter for the work. Just remember that you have to remove the ball joints before you send the knuckle to him.

Have you read up on this site yet. It has very good hi-steer information on it. Since you have a leaf-sprung front end, I would imagine that you would use 4" studs and an arm spacer like this below the hi-steer arms to get the steering over your leafs.

 

[kf_chris]

Interesting build.
The "hater" type responses are flying around here (and many many other forums I've been on through the years) with no regard for respect. People need to consider whether or not they'd say certain things to a man's face before typing. At least be respectful....but I digress.
Seems like you're looking to work out the bugs when you get the steering rebuilt, but for the south FL holes you should be ok...if not you're already equipped for repair.

 

[Begster]

You can drill and tap your own flat-top knuckle. You'll need to buy a high-steer arm, position in atop the passenger knuckle and mark the three holes, drill them (IIRC, it's a 9/16" hole) Tap the holes, use the cone washers or whatever the knuckle comes with, torque it down hard, maybe 125 ft lbs. You can even run a few stitch-welds along both the sides of the arm/knuckle and bolt heads to knuckle. This will run your drag link above the leafs, so make sure there's clearance for it. You can run a thick spacer washer if needed, but keep it as short as possible to reduce leverage. I've seen guys run a welded tab on the DL to sandwich the bolt in at the knuckle too for strength. There is a reason no high steer arms never came welded on from the factory, and why there is a stud and conical washer system rather than a plain old grade 8 bolt.

Once again, not an ideal set-up for the street, but I've seen this run a few times and it works if your work is quality. Good luck.

DO NOT DO THIS.

The knuckles need to be milled flat first, then drilled and tapped. Just because its called a flat top knuckle, doesn't mean it actually is flat on top. It is a cast part, and therefore, the surface is rough and unfinished. The steering will fail if you don't have a perfectly flat surface to mate the arm to, as friction is the main force that holds the arm attached, not the studs in shear. I also wouldn't weld the arms on, not only is it a bad idea, you will have an impossible time changing ball joints.


I had John Nutter mill my knuckles, and he did a great job. His customer service is exemplary.

 

[wishihad1]

if you want some real "criticism" go post yalls builds over on pirate4x4. im not going to say my rig or badder then yours, or will go through a deeper "swamp" or whatever it is that your shooting for here....but one thing i honestly think i can say, is mine has been built right.

i know i dont have the ability to fab stuff, so a lot of my build has been "bolt on" to a certain extent. for the axles i built, i knew its too dangerous to learn how to weld while trying to build steering, and perches, so i had somebody do that for me...no shame in that.

both of these back yard projects...this one in particular is just the definition of ghetto booty fab. you claim to have the ability, and know how to do what your doing when it comes to fab work...but when you go turn your steering wheel, and your drag link is flexing so much your tires aren't turning, thats a no go.

im trying not to bash you, but you make it hard. you want to put your build on a public forum, where whether you want it or not, people are going to give advice. when it comes to something like this, people are more then likely just going to tell you something is bad, rather that advise you to do it differently...kind of like 2+2 isn't 6...thats just wrong, flat out.

ive got friends who have built stuff like this to wheel before....i no longer wheel with them. their junk looked sweet in the driveway. all big and bad looking. but when it came to the trail, it either didn't perform worth crap, or was broken.


rant off.....start over

 

[fubar XJ]

DO NOT DO THIS.

The knuckles need to be milled flat first, then drilled and tapped. Just because its called a flat top knuckle, doesn't mean it actually is flat on top. It is a cast part, and therefore, the surface is rough and unfinished. The steering will fail if you don't have a perfectly flat surface to mate the arm to, as friction is the main force that holds the arm attached, not the studs in shear. I also wouldn't weld the arms on, not only is it a bad idea, you will have an impossible time changing ball joints.


I had John Nutter mill my knuckles, and he did a great job. His customer service is exemplary.

Eh, yes and no. You can still change the ball joints, the flat-top knuckle was hit with a grinder to knock the surface reasonably flat, the knuckle was pre-heated and welded with high-nickel rod. No, it's not the best practice, but it's held together for going on ten years now through some hard wheeling. For a backyard-built swamp runner, it'll work.

But I hear you. Things should be done as right as possible given the circumstances.

 

[jbjustin33415]

if you want some real "criticism" go post yalls builds over on pirate4x4. im not going to say my rig or badder then yours, or will go through a deeper "swamp" or whatever it is that your shooting for here....but one thing i honestly think i can say, is mine has been built right.

i know i dont have the ability to fab stuff, so a lot of my build has been "bolt on" to a certain extent. for the axles i built, i knew its too dangerous to learn how to weld while trying to build steering, and perches, so i had somebody do that for me...no shame in that.

both of these back yard projects...this one in particular is just the definition of ghetto booty fab. you claim to have the ability, and know how to do what your doing when it comes to fab work...but when you go turn your steering wheel, and your drag link is flexing so much your tires aren't turning, thats a no go.

im trying not to bash you, but you make it hard. you want to put your build on a public forum, where whether you want it or not, people are going to give advice. when it comes to something like this, people are more then likely just going to tell you something is bad, rather that advise you to do it differently...kind of like 2+2 isn't 6...thats just wrong, flat out.

ive got friends who have built stuff like this to wheel before....i no longer wheel with them. their junk looked sweet in the driveway. all big and bad looking. but when it came to the trail, it either didn't perform worth crap, or was broken.


rant off.....start over

well thats just fine and dandy. my steering "works" to an extent. it does turn the wheels, not like you are stating that the wheel dont turn. if you would have read it right, i posted it only turns the wheels 20* in each direction, that is not good enough for me. yes i am going to redo the steering. i am trying to build it on a budget and high steer wasnt planned in my original budget so i tried with that i had first.

as for the rest of the jeep, it is all fine, its not ready to go on the trail just yet, still need to go over everything with a fine comb and gusset what needs.

i dont see why i would need to "start over" as you stated. tell me why you think i should start over and what is "ghetto booty fab" on my project.

 

[trd_xj42]

Have you considered crossover steering? Judging from budget approach you're going for I think it might make sense. Keep the tie rod you have, mill and tap the passenger side, get a arm, and just make a new drag link.