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Alexia's 1997 Comanche - 4.7L Stroker

man keep up the clean work. i love what you are doing.

Thanks! I love what is left of your XJ/Truggy-ma-thing. :D

Great looking ride!! Definitely wanna see in person!!

I would be interested in seeing it in person sometimes ;-)

When I get done the both of you should come to the next RCRC meeting in June/July. I need to convince the club to sponsor a Jeep/Off Road Vehicle show and shine.


The headlight loom WAS perfect until one of the tabs from the bulb broke off in the socket. I destroyed the socket trying to separate the tab from it.
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It has a face!
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I JUST DROVE IT DOWN THE STREET! YESH! I can not stop screaming I am SO HAPPY!

One minor issue! The transmission shifter cable debonded from the grommet in the firewall so the cable is just sliding around instead of actually shifting. This happened RIGHT as I went to drive it. > :( Going to have to cleverly clamp it inside the cab to keep it from moving.

Genright's Jeep fuel cell unit. Accepts many Jeep fuel pump assemblies and other compatible Chrysler units from 1997-2012.
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Sweet! Not a big fan of the fuel cell though. Why that and not a traditional tank?
 
That is a nifty fuel cell, I love that it takes a factory sender. Not sure I want to give up that much space in the bed though.
 
Sweet! Not a big fan of the fuel cell though. Why that and not a traditional tank?

That is a nifty fuel cell, I love that it takes a factory sender. Not sure I want to give up that much space in the bed though.

The problem with Comanche gas tanks is that when they rust that usually means the fuel pump assembly has rusted as well. Several companies make replacement gas tanks, but no one makes a replacement fuel pump assembly. The most common solution is to use an OBDI Dodge Dakota tank with a OBDII Dakota fuel pump assembly. I found a OBDII tank and did this abomination.

http://i.imgur.com/TzqPdOB.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/2LXi0YU.jpg

Yes, those are sheet metal screws into plastic. They held strong and the tank passed a twenty four hour leak test using a sealer designed for gasoline. The neck coming from the piece of metal I cut is the fuel filler neck from the bed side of the Dakota flipped, cap retainer bored out, and the vent tube crimped shut.

Once I started fitting it underneath I found that it sat too close to the driveshaft and rear D44 axle on the setup I put together. It was just too dangerous to run.
 
The problem with Comanche gas tanks is that when they rust that usually means the fuel pump assembly has rusted as well. Several companies make replacement gas tanks, but no one makes a replacement fuel pump assembly. The most common solution is to use an OBDI Dodge Dakota tank with a OBDII Dakota fuel pump assembly. I found a OBDII tank and did this abomination.

http://i.imgur.com/TzqPdOB.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/2LXi0YU.jpg

Yes, those are sheet metal screws into plastic. They held strong and the tank passed a twenty four hour leak test using a sealer designed for gasoline. The neck coming from the piece of metal I cut is the fuel filler neck from the bed side of the Dakota flipped, cap retainer bored out, and the vent tube crimped shut.

I did not know that. Thanks for sharing. I have an 88 I'm about to start working on and that is good to know. I sure hope mine is in decent shape.

Once I started fitting it underneath I found that it sat too close to the driveshaft and rear D44 axle on the setup I put together. It was just too dangerous to run.

I did not know this. Good info thanks for sharing.
 
I painted and installed the front bumper. Uh, that is about it! I added another 1.5 quarts of ATF+4 to the transmission since it took two trips up and down the street to get it fully circulated and drop the level down below the "OK" mark.

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I had some insane spring wrap on braking that was causing the pinion yoke straps to hit the overly sized aluminum yoke on the drive shaft. I installed leaf spring clamps on the front of the overload leafs and that solved the issue as well as reducing the variance in the pinion angle.



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255/75R17. They measure out to 32.1" and 10.4" wide.
 
Actually that tire is the current JK Rubicon tire. They call them a KM but they are just a tick different but they do resemble the old KM's more than the KM2.

After checking several tire distributors in middle TN, I only found 1 tire and they are expensive. You can buy Goodyear M/TR Kevlars for less.
 
This 12º low clearance slip yoke will not do.
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The stock XJ slip yoke binds at 30º. I swapped it to the MJ shaft with the big aluminum ears to get 20º before it binds.
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This how u-joints are removed from aluminum yokes. They have be cut out since the width of the yoke is too small to press the caps out.
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Leaking axle shaft seal. It was so loose that it wobbled in the hole. Dropped it off this morning and reinstalled before the sun set.
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I actually put these on two weeks ago. The brackets are from Zone Offroad and work perfectly for high clearance with the correct angle for the shocks to not bind when articulating. The shocks are Bilstein 33-066868 meant for a XJ with a 4" lift. About 5" up travel and 4" down travel.
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YJ yokes have more clearance. The ears are longer. Looks good.
 
I saw this truck over the weekend and it sure is sharp!!! Nice work Alex!!!
 
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