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90 xj nightmare please help

will it 100 % start all the time if you do the jumper to the battery... if so i would just as much as i hate to rig stuff... if its a trail rig .... run a 3 dollar switch into the XXXXpiit with some wire... turn the key to on and mash the button and wham..... vroom your off
 
ok caykaaro i tried what you have said. we hooked a wire directly from the positive on the battery to the post labled I on the relay. but now get this. when we go to hook the negative back up th starter starts clicking. and i dont have the key in the ignition. i dont want to just ignore that and hook it up because i am sick of replacing parts. so maybe you can tell me what i am doing wrong. it dosnt actually turn over when i do it it just clicks and clicks really fast. and the key isnt even in the ignition. if i understand you right it shouldnt do anything unless the key is in and on. and with the bridged like that it should work as normal with it briged. any ideas anybody?
 
you are running voltage directly to the--i--post thats why it clicks away. you have to have a switch of some kind in the wire running to --i-- terminal. use of a 12volt test light will you where you have power with key on & KEY off. running wires
directly from hot posts only causes trouble with out switch or fuses in the line. I agree with MoFo use meter or test light saves a lot of headaches badge714
 
ok so heres whats new. i hooked the battery up. and turned the ignition took the wire from the I post. to the battery and viola it started. and shut off just like it was supposed to. time after time after time. so first thing in the morning i am going to go and get the 3 dollar switch. and viola back on the trail i go. thank you guys soooooooooooo much. just out of curiousity anyone have any idea as to what could be causing the problem that is making me have to start it this way.?
 
90xjpos said:
ok caykaaro i tried what you have said. we hooked a wire directly from the positive on the battery to the post labled I on the relay. but now get this. when we go to hook the negative back up th starter starts clicking. and i dont have the key in the ignition. i dont want to just ignore that and hook it up because i am sick of replacing parts. so maybe you can tell me what i am doing wrong. it dosnt actually turn over when i do it it just clicks and clicks really fast. and the key isnt even in the ignition. if i understand you right it shouldnt do anything unless the key is in and on. and with the bridged like that it should work as normal with it briged. any ideas anybody?

I could be wrong, but that doesn't sound quite right. If the key is in the on position, can you start it by the post? When we did it, the gound was on, and with the key on, when you touch a wire form the battery positive to the starter relay it will start. This basically totally bypasses the NSS, which was why mine wouldn't start. WIthout the bypass, we could hear the click of the starter relay tyring to do it's job, but the NSS wouldn't allow the starter do do a thing. Not sure why it would do anything with the key in out, unless it's like mine where once it's out of lock position, I don't require to have the key in at all. Having it wired like that, as I said, will take out the NSS from the equation of what's going on if there's another problem happening. We ended up replacing the starter relay and ignition starter switch. Not sure if the switch needed it or not, but did anyways. The relay was the original '90 so didn't mind replacing that at all. Seems quite a bit is original on it still, but slowly replacing. I know in order to have this work the ignition starter switch has to be working. Found out the hard way --- long story.
 
badge714 said:
you are running voltage directly to the--i--post thats why it clicks away. you have to have a switch of some kind in the wire running to --i-- terminal. use of a 12volt test light will you where you have power with key on & KEY off. running wires
directly from hot posts only causes trouble with out switch or fuses in the line. I agree with MoFo use meter or test light saves a lot of headaches badge714

True on checking if wires are live or not, but bridging positive to the post on the relay shouldn't cause it to click continously, and it shouldn't click until you turn your key to start the car, and only then when you start it. How do I know this? because my brothers' best friend is a licensed mechanic, and he's the one help us fix the starting problem. This is exactly what we did, and what how it reacted, using a brand new starter relay, and as well we had the starter and selnoid tested and although looks well used, tested like it was brand new. We could have put in a starter switch if I wanted it, [which I didn't] but still, in order for that to work, the key would still have to be in the ON position to work. Something else seems amiss. I'm by no means an expert, but I do now what has been done to my jeep, why and what the result was.
 
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