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89 xj no start help

Trixie03

NAXJA Member
NAXJA Member
Location
Warsaw, IN
I am looking at buying an 89 xj from someone on craigslist but it has a few problems i was hoping you guys could help me out with before buying it. The owner of it was driving it and then it sputtered and died on him. Now he has no power to ignition switch or doors to roll up the windows. The head lights and interior lights still come on. Wondering if anybody on here would have an idea as to what might have caused it to die and lose power to the ignition switch? Trying to pick it up for cheap to be a new rig for me but don't want to get a basket case either. Any help would be great.

Thanks,
Ben
 
If I remember correctly the interior lights don't get their power from the ignition switch they're on their own independent circuit.

I'm going to guess that its probably a fusible link . Near the starter relay is a group of fusible links, the one that goes to the Ignition switch is fried.
 
Ignition switch is about $20, the starter relay (near the battery) about $15, and the fuse links are not expensive. Buy it before you fix it!!!! LOL

Also some wires and fuses near the ignition switch that may need some work. Can you do simple wiring swaps?
 
Thanks for the replies and help. I didn't think it was gonna be that hard to fix. I am gonna go buy it tonight. Don't think $400 is that bad of a deal for it.
 
check the top two orange wires that go into the firewall connector under the brake booster. They feed power to the ignition and everything inside the interior.

assuming that the fusible links are good. Check them by simply tugging on them. If the insulation strecthes the wire inside is burned and no longer one piece of wire. Fusible links need to be sized 2 gauges smaller than the wire they protect. Pretty sure they're 14 ga, but I can't remember off hand.
 
up by the battery, passenger side, attached to the odd starter relay, little silver box with a screw post terminal. They'll be in front of the relays mounted to the passenger inner fender.
 
It could be the relay that is bad!!!
 
I think it would only be the starter relay if he was getting power to the Ignition switch, but nothing nothing happens when turning the key.

The fusible links and battery lead all screw onto the same post on the starter relay, so really the fusible links have a direct path to the battery, the relay is just the mounting point. Even if the starter relay was completely dead you should still be getting 12v to the ignition switch.

If you get 12v at the ignition switch, but nothing happens when you turn turn the key then I would say starter relay. This is where multimeter skills start saving you time and money.

However, since the power windows don't work when the key is turned pretty much confirms there is no power getting to the ignition switch, or the ignition switch is shot (since power to windows is only on when they key is turned).

This thread has a great picture of the starter relay, and all the fusible links coming off it. http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=97288

Even if you find out it is indeed a fusible link might be a good idea to check the wiring going to and from the ignition switch, and replace the ignition switch for good measure. There's a good possibility that something shorted and caused the fusible link to burn up, so want to check for wiring shorts.
 
Well we ended up buying the jeep yesterday and brought it home. Now the fun begins with trying to get it running again. Started looking at the fusible links and this is the only one that i found that is bad.
2012-10-18125620.jpg

Both the green and orange wires come together and tie into one termainal but the green wire is the one that is burnt on it and split in to. Can anyone tell me what this one mite go to? Have never really gotten the hang of looking at wiring diagrams.

Also, where would be the best place to go to get another one of these? I asked orielly's and they were asked how many amp fuse i needed. Didn't think they knew what i needed. Should i cut it off and take it in with me?
 
You will need to find out what else is shorted out that overloaded it!!!

Check the O2 sensor wires near the O2 sensor. That is a common one to get eaten by drive shafts and exhaust manifolds.

Also check the fuse box under the dash, driver's side and the ignition switch. The AC blower, WS wipers, and a few other items are also heavy loads that cause melted wires at the ignition switch, Blower speed switch...

Cruiser54 may have the amp rating on that one handy.
 
what color wire did the fusible link attach to. There's more than one green one.

if I read your post correctly that green wire connects with an orange wire?
if so I think that's fuel pump circuit, which also powers the O2 heater and the ASD relay.

that's if I remember correctly. Most of that stuff has been rewired or simply deleted from my chassis.
 
what color wire did the fusible link attach to. There's more than one green one.

if I read your post correctly that green wire connects with an orange wire?
if so I think that's fuel pump circuit, which also powers the O2 heater and the ASD relay.

that's if I remember correctly. Most of that stuff has been rewired or simply deleted from my chassis.

I think you are right, which is why I suggested the O2 wires at the sensor. That is the same one I smoked on mine about 4 years ago, the wires got wrapped on the front drive shaft shorted the O2 heater to ground. I pulled the O2 heater relay and drove home, till I got it fixed. But I got to mine before it burned out the fuse link, so I never had to buy one, yet.
 
There should be a total of 4 ring terminals but 7 fusible links.

1. a. Blue = Alternator

2. a. Green = Ignition Switch
b. Orange = Fuel Pump Relay

3. a. Green = Fog Lamps/ Fuse Box / Engine Lamp
b. Green = ? (think it also goes to fuse box for other components)

4. a. Orange = B+ Latch Relay
b. Green = Fan Control Relay

Unfortunately the colors above only indicate the fusible link colors, I don't have what color wires they turn into after the fusible links end, and as they go to their respective destinations.

Since the its the green fusible link that's shares a ring terminal with an orange fusible link I feel that nails it down as the Ignition switch Fusible link. That fusible link at the very least needs to be replaced. That wire should go straight to the Ignition switch.

The fusible link colors indicate the Gauge.

Blue = 12 Gauge
Green = 18 Gauge http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/DOR4/85625/N0220.oap
Orange = 20 Gauge


You still need to find out cause it to go out. So doublecheck all the ignition switch wiring, replace the ignition switch (they're like 10 bucks). And check the fuses, mainly the fuses that control electronics power by the ignition switch. The fuses that are powered by the ignition switch are ABS Fuse, Power Windows Fuse, Clock Fuse, TCU Fuse, Gauges Fuse, Blower Fuse, Rear window wiper fuse, Turn/back up lamps fuse, and Radio Fuse.

If a previous owner jumper bypassed one of those fuses with a jumper wire or used a fuse with a higher rating, and then the component it controls shorted, that short could work its way back through the ignition switch and cause the ignition switch fusible link to die out.
 
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The 87-90 ignition switch is way overloaded, wires are undersized, and they eat ignition switches, resulting in burned and melted switches and harness assy connectors and some times shorts. So that is a good bet the problem is also there.

Also, looking at the picture, that yellow wire coupler is tying a tiny wire from the battery to a massive load wire from the jeep!!!! That 8 gauge wire needs to go all the way to the the battery, so loose that crappy 12 gauge junk on the last foot to the clamp. Get a brass clamp or get one of 5-90's heavy battery-starter-ground wire sets for the rig.
 
Great post, we need to save this one!!!! Sticky, bookmark!!!!

There should be a total of 4 ring terminals but 7 fusible links.

1. a. Blue = Alternator

2. a. Green = Ignition Switch
b. Orange = Fuel Pump Relay

3. a. Green = Fog Lamps/ Fuse Box / Engine Lamp
b. Green = ? (think it also goes to fuse box for other components)

4. a. Orange = B+ Latch Relay
b. Green = Fan Control Relay

Unfortunately the colors above only indicate the fusible link colors, I don't have what color wires they turn into after the fusible links end, and as they go to their respective destinations.

Since the its the green fusible link that's shares a ring terminal with an orange fusible link I feel that nails it down as the Ignition switch Fusible link. That fusible link at the very least needs to be replaced. That wire should go straight to the Ignition switch.

The fusible link colors indicate the Gauge.

Blue = 12 Gauge
Green = 18 Gauge http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/DOR4/85625/N0220.oap
Orange = 20 Gauge


You still need to find out cause it to go out. So doublecheck all the ignition switch wiring, replace the ignition switch (they're like 10 bucks). And check the fuses, mainly the fuses that control electronics power by the ignition switch. The fuses that are powered by the ignition switch are ABS Fuse, Power Windows Fuse, Clock Fuse, TCU Fuse, Gauges Fuse, Blower Fuse, Rear window wiper fuse, Turn/back up lamps fuse, and Radio Fuse.

If a previous owner jumper bypassed one of those fuses with a jumper wire or used a fuse with a higher rating, and then the component it controls shorted, that short could work its way back through the ignition switch and cause the ignition switch fusible link to die out.
 
I just went through this a couple weeks ago with my 88 waggy. My yellow wire running from the alternator with the brown wire had rubbed on the frame and dead shorted this caused the same fuseable link to melt in two also it smoked the yellow wire as well. Mine happen while driving just started to kick and buck then the amp gauge went haywire then she just died no start no power windows but power to radio lights ect.. You may want to take a look at that wire for a probable cause. I too am trying to locate a replacement fuseable link also to no avail but will post when I do.
 
Okay i went and changed out the ignition switch today with a new one and still have nothing. I did notice that on the blue connector on the switch where the brown wire comes in looks a little burnt and melted. Also on the black connector for the switch, the red wire coming in looks to have gotten a little hot and melted the plastic around the terminal. What would this mean? Where should i check next to get this thing running? Everything else is checking out ok so far.
 
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