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63mm Throttle Body Installation Question

Really, IMO, it all comes back to is the part required? If the OP runs the vacuum test and the manifold goes to atmospheric pressure or at least to within 5"Hg of atmosphere, then he will see ZERO performance gains by replacing the TB with a larger one. This test being with the air cleaner removed, an open TB in other words.

I had to replace mine and a cheap part just would not cut it. In this case, the OP may not even need to replace the stock TB. Believe it or not, the Design Engineers actually do know what they are on about.

That being said, it certainly is an easy task to remove the taper out from under the butterfly.

And, I quite agree that a billet TB in the up to 63mm size are for bragging rights as the bling adds nothing to the performance over a modified stock unit. Why spend the money there when you can do something that actually adds to the performance.

For me, a $390 TB bolted to a $4,000 Supercharger was a no brainer. For a 4.7L Stroker, this is the size needed as well. You can get away with a 65mm but, the 68mm is the better choice. Jeep ran a 65mm on the 4.7L V-8. I did that conversion on my Stroker built in '02 or so. Long time ago at any rate. That was done with a simple plate adapter and transfer of the IAC motor to the WJ TB. Others have adapted the Ford TB.

So, technically, the TB on my Heep is not over sized it is Right sized for the application. And, had I the under hood clearance, I would have done it again to save a few hundred bucks. Alas, no room...
 
OGS I ran your test and have found that the TB is indeed a bottleneck. I plan on buying a 63mm TB from Leigh Performance. Seems like a pretty easy install although I'm a little worried to be messing with the TPS, IAC, and MAP sensor. Any tips or tricks for properly unplugging them without messing anything up?
 
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