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3 link rear MJ coming soon

Would you mind elaborating on that? Not questioning your experience, just trying to learn from those with more. I would assume in order to garner flex steer from a dual triangulated 4 link, yes you would have to have an insane roll axis set up. But for that to happen, wouldnt you practically have to mount the uppers behind the axle and lowers in front[/] in order to generate a severe enough geometry? Also accounting for that difference in axis by the frame end points being skewed fore and aft of each other the same difference?

And yes, I realized that parallel lowers were the plan and the execution; thats why I mentioned it was simply for discussion's sake.
 
Last edited:
ArcticXJ said:
Would you mind elaborating on that? Not questioning your experience, just trying to learn from those with more. I would assume in order to garner flex steer from a dual triangulated 4 link, yes you would have to have an insane roll axis set up. But for that to happen, wouldnt you practically have to mount the uppers behind the axle and lowers in front[/] in order to generate a severe enough geometry? Also accounting for that difference in axis by the frame end points being skewed fore and aft of each other the same difference?

And yes, I realized that parallel lowers were the plan and the execution; thats why I mentioned it was simply for discussion's sake.
Click to expand...

here is a quick example:



thick blue is lowers, thin blue goes to their imaginary intersection point. uppers are red, same thing. the green is the roll axis, sloped significantly and will have a lot of flex steer.
 
Good ol' MS Paint. I think you hit the nail on the head of what I was trying to say in my last post about the uppers being BEHIND the axle at their mounting and the lowers being IN FRONT of it. That pic put it into words better.

I didnt figure that anyone building their own link suspension would be ignorant enough to try to build something that looked like that above. I guess I thought that a proper roll axis (or at least somewhat proper) was an implied detail. I'll still stand by the dual triangulation rule, this time though factoring in that maybe the roll axis isnt just a given in the discussion.
 
BTW... your uppers are shorther than your lowers. :D
 
ArcticXJ said:
BTW... your uppers are shorther than your lowers. :D
Click to expand...

there is more than one?

:D
 
BrettM said:
still need to:

-tie new rear frame into exo
-compress and mount coils and shocks
-add bumpstops
-re-do brakelines
-re-do exhaust
Click to expand...

It's been 16 hours. I assume your done... right? :dunce:

Looking good. I can't wait to see it perform.

-jm
 
BrettM said:
still need to:

-tie new rear frame into exo
-compress and mount coils and shocks
-add bumpstops
-re-do brakelines
-re-do exhaust
Click to expand...

did the exhaust, exo tie in, and coils. In the following picture the weight is on the rear axle and coils, this was a height check, I need to move the coil mounts up about 2 inches.



The exo is welded to 3 spots under each front fender and the whole length of the pinch seam/rain gutter. This should tie it into the uni-body structure very well. There will be an X or \ added behind the cab. Probably next summer the roof will get chopped out and some more tube up top. I think the structure now will do very well for sliding and flopping.

I still need to add door bars and more tube to the flat-bed. I'm debating the height and angle of the door bars; I want good protection but don't want it to be too much a PITA to get in and out... I'm thinking I will put it right here, any input? any reason to make the bar higher?



 
are you planning on plating the frame rails? Looking good! How much tube will you use in the exo, just the two sticks?
 
Last edited:
davidt said:
are you planning on plating the frame rails? Looking good! How much tube will you use in the exo, just the two sticks?
Click to expand...
not gonna plate the frame rails at this point, the unibody is plenty stiff, especially with the tube work now, and I haven't had problems with the rails denting.

what you see there is about 40 feet. this week I will be adding another 10 or so on the flatbed and 12-15 on the door bars. then about 5 feet for an \ or 10 for an X behind the cab, though that may not get done til after JV.
 
Are you planning to tie the top of the coil mounts into the cage?
 
JeepFreak21 said:
Is the yellowtop dead? It looks like it should be shooting sparks in this shot.
Billy
Click to expand...
it's about 2 inches from the cab. I need to reroute my batter cables around the wishbone, so I just hooked the battery up there so I could start it and hear the new exhaust.
 
what thickness plat did you use for the shave brett? How much did you take off? Another toyota axle question, will a dana 44 yoke bolt in to a toyota axle housing?
 
1/4" plate, the housing is 3/16. the higher your pinion is pointing the more you can gain with a shave, my pinion is pretty high at 23 degrees and I'd guess I gained very close to an inch. a D44 yoke won't bolt up, Toyotas have flat flanges and I got a flange to bolt up that takes a 1310 (factory Jeep) joint.
 
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