3 link rear MJ coming soon

[BrettM]

I flipped the coin and I'm doing a wishbone.

I've got a few of the brackets tacked in place, but I haven't had a day off work in 9 days, so not much has been done. Here's the axle positioned at full compression, just clearing the gas tank, and about 6" of uptravel.



I'm still debating the length of the lowers, somewhere between 30 and 40 inches; the longer they are the less flex-steer, but the worse ground clearance...

 

[Jes]

Nice use of the masonry products.

 

[davidt]

whats your new wb going to be?

 

[xjj33p3r]

How about 35" lower arms? Seems like a good compromise.

 

[BrettM]

Nice use of the masonry products.

:confused1:

whats your new wb going to be?

109", the axle is about an inch away from the gas tank at full compression.

How about 35" lower arms? Seems like a good compromise.

Howdja figger dat 1 out? soundz lik sum compilcated math...

I think I'm settling on 36", and if I decide to redo it this winter, so be it.

 

[xjj33p3r]

Good luck on your project.

 

[XJ_ranger]

109", the axle is about an inch away from the gas tank at full compression.

full compression verticaly, but what about the right side drooped and the left side stuffed, accounting for the "flex steer"?





EDIT - nevermind - thought it out and that situation creates more clearance...


though when the drivers side starts to droop, it will move forward...

hmmm...

 

[BrettM]

full compression verticaly, but what about the right side drooped and the left side stuffed, accounting for the "flex steer"?





EDIT - nevermind - thought it out and that situation creates more clearance...


though when the drivers side starts to droop, it will move forward...

hmmm...

it's fine

 

[BrettM]

This project is gay unless you cut the frame at the cab.

Be one with the Sawz-All.

Embrace the tube bender.

Your aura will glow brightly.

CRASH

The Sawz-All came out again, not all the way to the cab... but enough to make Eagle light headed.





The only way to make the coils and shocks as far out as I want them was to get rid of the frame, so that's what I did. I will also be able to get the cargo space exactly how I want it this way.

 

[CRASH]

The Sawz-All came out again, not all the way to the cab... but enough to make Eagle light headed.





The only way to make the coils and shocks as far out as I want them was to get rid of the frame, so that's what I did. I will also be able to get the cargo space exactly how I want it this way.

Oh yeah, I see this getting done before JV on the 19th.

 

[magoo117]

looks like the beers where flowing while the work was going on :cheers:

 

[Phil]

Oh yeah, I see this getting done before your test run on the 30th.

Fixed.

 

[BrettM]

Oh yeah, I see this getting done before JV on the 19th.

you better believe it! there really isn't that much left to do. as Phil said, planning on a test run to Highlakes in less than 2 weeks. though I probably won't get to some of the cosmetic aspects until after JV.

 

[CRASH]

you better believe it! there really isn't that much left to do. as Phil said, planning on a test run to Highlakes in less than 2 weeks. though I probably won't get to some of the cosmetic aspects until after JV.

Have you ever worried about cosmetic aspects in the past?

 

[BrettM]

Have you ever worried about cosmetic aspects in the past?

depends on if you like flat black or not... I think she's beautiful :gag:

 

[BrettM]

it's coming together, and I'll be working on it all day Sunday and Monday.

here's how it sits now:

still some to chop, and some to add...

(the cinder block and tool box are just holding the "rocket box" in place of where I'm going to attach it)

 

[JeepFreak21]

Geeze! That cinderblock is scary! You wouldn't catch me working under that thing!
Billy

 

[BrettM]

got the driveshaft back today and finished with a bunch of gusseting on the axle

wishbone is 28" long, lowers are 33" long, 11" verticle seperation at the axle, 8" at the frame. with my estimated CG the antisquat is 78%.

I decided not to do threaded coil mounts, instead the upper coil mount is on a piece of 2x2 tube that will be welded to the side of the new rear frame. I will be able to change ride-height in 2 minutes of grinding and 1 minute of welding.

I also got some Aerostar coils instead of the XJ coils. A lot of Toyota guys have used them in the past for rear link suspensions. The main reason is that they come with very simple, effective, coil retainers on both ends. Mounting them simply required welding a bolt onto a flat piece of plate. That's it.

still need to:

-tie new rear frame into exo
-compress and mount coils and shocks
-add bumpstops
-re-do brakelines
-re-do exhaust

SOON!!!

Here's how it sits now:

 

[ArcticXJ]

I'm still debating the length of the lowers, somewhere between 30 and 40 inches; the longer they are the less flex-steer, but the worse ground clearance...

Not neccesarily true.

The flex steer is more dependent upon and attributable to the reciprocation of angles from upper to lower link geometry.

Uh... I mean... its not so much the lack of link length that causes the flex steer as it is the triangulation or the difference in overall length of the uppers/lowers in relation to each other. If your rear links are double-triangulated and the upper ' V ' and lower ' V ' share similar angles (in opposite direactions, of course) then that would all but eliminate the flex steer, with little regard to the length of the links.

This is just for rhetoric and discussion's sake however though, seeing as how youve already buttoned up your setup and are happy with it.

 

[BrettM]

Not neccesarily true.

The flex steer is more dependent upon and attributable to the reciprocation of angles from upper to lower link geometry.

Uh... I mean... its not so much the lack of link length that causes the flex steer as it is the triangulation or the difference in overall length of the uppers/lowers in relation to each other. If your rear links are double-triangulated and the upper ' V ' and lower ' V ' share similar angles (in opposite direactions, of course) then that would all but eliminate the flex steer, with little regard to the length of the links.

This is just for rhetoric and discussion's sake however though, seeing as how youve already buttoned up your setup and are happy with it.

i am fully aware of how flex steer is influenced by the roll axis and triangulation, but as stated from the very beginning, I've chosen to stick with parallel lowers, therefore flex steer IS directly dependent on link length (and static angle).

If your rear links are double-triangulated and the upper ' V ' and lower ' V ' share similar angles (in opposite direactions, of course) then that would all but eliminate the flex steer, with little regard to the length of the links.

that's actually not true. there are some cases it is, but you could easily build a dual-triangulated 4 link following those rules that still has a steep roll-axis and tons of flex steer.