Lock in Lock out hubs?

[LYKOS]

Hey all.

Again, I searched and found no joy. If there is a thread that answers this question please post a link.


I have a 01'XJ with the stock Dana up front.

I am looking at a locker in the front and have seizures when I look at the prices of selectable lockers. I was thinking auto locker but have heard a LOT of negative feedback about auto lockers in the front.

SO here's the thing.

I have a set of complete lock in lock out hub assemblies from an 87 CJ-7. Will they work on the front end I already have? I was thinking I could just do the autpo locker and the lock in lock out hubs locking one side at a time and both sides only when needed.

 

[Tim_MN]

Most people that think front auto-lockers in a Cherokee are a problem, have never owned or used a front auto-locker. My PowerTrax No-Slip works just fine in my D30.

No, CJ D30 and XJ D30 parts do not interchange (except perhaps the ring and pinion).

 

[LYKOS]

No, CJ D30 and XJ D30 parts do not interchange (except perhaps the ring and pinion).

Thanks man. That's the answer I was looking for.

Sooooo...

Edited - flog parts in Classifieds or Chapter Forum...

 

[old_man]

I have run QuickLoc's or LocRites for over a dozen years and have never noticed any issues what so ever when in 2wd.

 

[LYKOS]

I keep on hearing they suck in the snow. WHich is the primary reason I want a front locker. I live a little ... Differently. LOL

My little cabin is inaccessable wihtout a stout 4wd for most of the winter.

My stock XJ with 31's has a hard tiome with the snow at times. So I'm looking to beef it up a bit to make sure I an snow shoeing it home one to many nights.

 

[old_man]

They are fine in 4wd in the snow, they are crap in 4wd on ice.

 

[LYKOS]

Well, isnt just about everything crap on ice? Just sayin...

 

[chris420]

To answer your ? on the CJ hubs for a Dana 30 yes they will work. In order to make them work you will need to run 5 on 5.5 and redrill the rear axles and buy new wheels. Trevor at WFO in Auburn CA has done it to a Wrangler and told me it holds up just fine with 35" tires. Give WFO a call below is the link. You spend a lot of time in the snow so a Trutrac would be a better choice over a locker. The problem with a locker in the snow is turning. When turning with a locker both tires move at the same speed thus causing the vehile to loose traction and push you into an object.

http://www.wfoconcepts.com/Default.aspx

 

[cal]

To answer your ? on the CJ hubs for a Dana 30 yes they will work. In order to make them work you will need to run 5 on 5.5 and redrill the rear axles and buy new wheels. Trevor at WFO in Auburn CA has done it to a Wrangler and told me it holds up just fine with 35" tires. Give WFO a call below is the link. You spend a lot of time in the snow so a Trutrac would be a better choice over a locker. The problem with a locker in the snow is turning. When turning with a locker both tires move at the same speed thus causing the vehile to loose traction and push you into an object.

http://www.wfoconcepts.com/Default.aspx

This is lacking some hard facts.

The CJ knuckles and XJ knuckles are not interchangable. You would have to cut the inner C's off fo the XJ housing, sleeve the tube to get the right OD and then press CJ inner C's on before you can bolt CJ outer knuckles up.

You're already spending more than the cost of an XJ hub kit unless you happen to do this sort of thing for fun and profit (and are equipped for it).

There are some other options to get to locking hubs, but they cost even more..

I've been running auto lockers in the snow for 10 years, and have never seen a downside.

 

[Tim_MN]

For winter driving here in Minnesota, I prefer a rear locker. On snow and ice, rear lockers behave exactly the same as the optional Jeep factory rear axle Limited Slip. With a rear locker and good All Season tires 4x4 is seldom needed and in a Cherokee you can shift on the fly into and out of 4x4 as required. Mud tires really suck in snowy/icy conditions.

 

[chris420]

This is lacking some hard facts.

The CJ knuckles and XJ knuckles are not interchangable. You would have to cut the inner C's off fo the XJ housing, sleeve the tube to get the right OD and then press CJ inner C's on before you can bolt CJ outer knuckles up.

You're already spending more than the cost of an XJ hub kit unless you happen to do this sort of thing for fun and profit (and are equipped for it).

There are some other options to get to locking hubs, but they cost even more..

I've been running auto lockers in the snow for 10 years, and have never seen a downside.

Actualy I think the inner C's were factory and the outers were Dedenbear's. Like I said call WFO Trevor will tell you what you need. Look below dude. This will save you big $ do the swap.

Model D30001JL (left)
Model D30001JR (right)
JEEP Heavy Duty Flat Top Dana 30 / Rubicon Knuckles $259.00 each The new Dana 30 / Rubicon 44 knuckle will transform late model Jeep axles into true contenders. The Reid knuckle adapts these axles to use early style Chevy & Jeep Dana 44 "outers". Early outers use tapered roller bearings eliminating the problematic unit bearings and allows standard lockout hubs to be used. Bigger brakes, more lug pattern options, and better aftermarket support come along as part of the conversion. The knuckles are also flat topped and drilled for high steer arm use.

• Uses stock pre-1987 Dana 44 Chevy or Jeep spindles, hubs, rotors, calipers, stub shafts, and lockouts.
• Fits YJ, TJ, XJ, WJ, ZJ, and MJ Dana 30 axles and TJ Rubicon Dana 44 axles.
• Easy bolt-on installation with no machining required.
• Aftermarket high strength stub shafts and lockouts can be used.
• Eliminates wimpy non-serviceable unit bearings.
• Adds conventional lockout hubs.
• Better fuel economy and less wear and tear when in 2 wheel drive.
• More lug patterns available including 5x5.5, 6x5.5, and 8x6.5.
• Cast from high strength ductile iron.
• Beefed up with extra material and ribbing.
• Flat tops machined and drilled for high steer arms, all angle corrections milled directly into the knuckle.
• Cast-in DUAL steering stops eliminate bent stop bolts that can cause u-joint and axle failures.
• Tapered tie rod holes accept factory tie rod ends.
• Tie rod holes can be drilled to accept 3/4" heim ends.
• Powder coated bright orange for long lasting looks.
• Machined to clear CTM u-joints without removing the grease fittings. http://www.reidracing.biz/5holearmdist.php

Dealer inquiries welcome. Knuckles for off road use only.
There is no warranty on this product.

http://www.reidracing.biz/DANA44.php

 

[cal]

I know all about the Reid knuckles. I was going to bring them up bit didnt want to confuse people.

There is nothing "CJ" about those parts. They use the same outers as fords, etc. People have done conversions using CJ inner knuckles on dana 30 tube with dana 44 outers, but it requires custom axle shafts and is a LOT of work. (which is what I was talking about, iirc WFO and Tri County have both done this conversion for people)

After spending nearly $600 on the knuckles themselves, and then still having to buy dana 44 rotors, spindles, bearings, caliper brackets, calipers, hubs, lockouts, etc etc etc...

The warn kit is cheaper again.

 

[chris420]

I was going to do this conversion but did not want to buy new wheels because my MT streetlocks were expensive. If I had stock or steel wheels I would have done it. Instead I purchased a used warn hub conversion from a 93 wangler that was at Trevors shop.

 

[BlueCuda]

We had twenty something inches on the ground this winter and I had no complaints. It steers ok and gets better with more throttle lol. Ice isn't scary, just takes some getting used to.

 

[chris420]

I know all about the Reid knuckles. I was going to bring them up bit didnt want to confuse people.

There is nothing "CJ" about those parts. They use the same outers as fords, etc. People have done conversions using CJ inner knuckles on dana 30 tube with dana 44 outers, but it requires custom axle shafts and is a LOT of work. (which is what I was talking about, iirc WFO and Tri County have both done this conversion for people)

After spending nearly $600 on the knuckles themselves, and then still having to buy dana 44 rotors, spindles, bearings, caliper brackets, calipers, hubs, lockouts, etc etc etc...

The warn kit is cheaper again.

My bad I thought the CJ hubs would work with the Dedenbear nuckles. I was thinking he could go to the junk yard and pull all the parts off of a Wagoneer and use the CJ hubs and Dedenbear nuckles. It does say you can use Jeep spindles.

 

[muddeprived]

I removed my front locker because it was downright scary when I needed 4wd on I-79 during a blizzard. It was also tough to steer when turning at a stop light in a foot of snow. Lady didn't like it either so it came out.

Some people have no issues, and some do.

 

[BlueCuda]

You do have a good point, I won't be tossing anyone else the keys to my jeep in the ice or snow. I knew what to expect and I know how to handle it so it seems to like its all fine, to someone else they may not like it at all. I do know I like it more than when I had a tru-trac in the front.

 

[cal]

My bad I thought the CJ hubs would work with the Dedenbear nuckles. I was thinking he could go to the junk yard and pull all the parts off of a Wagoneer and use the CJ hubs and Dedenbear nuckles. It does say you can use Jeep spindles.

dude you're hurting my head. first you're talking cj, now you're talking wagoneer.. you do know that not all jeeps that are non xj's are the same right?

CJ's had a front dana 30, 5x5.5 bolt pattern. Wagoneers had a dana 44, 6x5.5 bolt battern.

Most likely you would use ford outers with the reid knuckles to get 5x5.5, but you would still end up replacing all of the bearings and seals, which would add up to be a good chunk of change - and since you're getting rid of the stronger 27 spline unit bearing stubs to run dana 44 19 spline spindle stubs, you really need to go alloy at the same time. and upgrade to new warn premium hub.


The reid kit is a classy way to get to 5x5.5 and get true high steer. For that, it is a really well setup kit. What it is NOT is a cheaper path to locking hubs.


At the end of the day, going hubs does not save any gas mileage, does not make parts easier to maintain, and does not increase strength.

 

[BlueCuda]

I would have to disagree on the gas mileage part. I can tell a difference when I take my front driveshaft out. So I imagine hubs would be even better. The swap would never pay for itself though.

 

[Begster]

Its funny, I haven't noticed any change at all when I drive with hubs unlocked or locked. I just completed a 7hr drive each direction from MA to PA. I drove down there with unlocked hubs in my front D44, then drove back with hubs locked (due to blowing up my warn premium and replacing it with a slug). I didn't notice any difference at all in gas mileage.