My new XJ build, Comments/Opinions

[rocknxj]

Not true, Nitro Gear is a sponsor for and they offer 4.88's for the Chrysler 8.25 rear end. Couple writeups about them on the boards.

Cool. I was not aware of that (planning....plannning...I'll move my newly rebuilt axles to my kid's jeep, then regear his to 4.88's and run 35's, no wait...37's....). I fixed the above comment so nobody will know of my error. Ha!

This thread sort of makes me think of fantasy football, but in the Jeep variety. Fantasy XJ, as it were.

 

[Brad M.]

Cool. I was not aware of that (planning....plannning...I'll move my newly rebuilt axles to my kid's jeep, then regear his to 4.88's and run 35's, no wait...37's....)

This thread sort of makes me think of fantasy football, but in the Jeep variety. Fantasy XJ, as it were.

Just be aware that from what I've read of the install, one of the teeth on the ring gear had to be shaved to get it to fit inside the 8.25 housing, and due to that they are a bit noisy at highway speeds. Not a lot of feedback other than that.

 

[1998xj1985]

Just be aware that from what I've read of the install, one of the teeth on the ring gear had to be shaved to get it to fit inside the 8.25 housing, and due to that they are a bit noisy at highway speeds. Not a lot of feedback other than that.

that's probably talking about getting the cross shaft into the carrier rather than the gear fitting in the housing right? if that's the case, that has be done with any 4.56 gearset (and maybe 4.10, dunno) for the 8.25 or a special pin needs to be bought. either way, shouldn't affect noise because the gears don't even contact at that point.

 

[Brad M.]

that's probably talking about getting the cross shaft into the carrier rather than the gear fitting in the housing right? if that's the case, that has be done with any 4.56 gearset (and maybe 4.10, dunno) for the 8.25 or a special pin needs to be bought. either way, shouldn't affect noise because the gears don't even contact at that point.

Yes, but more involved. Ring gear itself had to be ground a little - see here, post # 5;

http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1010798&highlight=nitro,+gear,+install

OH, and end hijack.

Can't wait to watch this $12k build progress!

 

[rocknxj]

Can't wait to watch this $12k build progress!

Yeah, I'd like to follow the buildup of the "Starship Lake919" myself. I love watching other people spend money.

 

[Lake919]

Yeah I love spending money as well, especially since it hurts my cheap wifes heart. She was in my office looking over my gear list and almost croaked when she saw the price of the lift and lockers and gears and wheels and tires. This is all coming from a woman that drives a 48k truck with over 15k in upgrades to it. So I will be posting some pics in a few along with a revised parts list.

 

[wolfpackjeeper]

[off topic]

what do you do in Mobile? Especially to have the budget and time for the project right now. I only ask since I live in Pensacola and see that you are reasonably local to me.

 

[Lake919]

I have a Master's Degree in Bio Chemical Engineering and I work for Shell Oil as a Senior Safety Inspector. Great job, great benefits and exceptional pay. Been here for 12 years now, love every minute of it.

Quick technical question guys, do I need a locker for both axles or rear only?

 

[wolfpackjeeper]

Quick technical question guys, do I need a locker for both axles or rear only?

Now your are gonna get this into a philosophical debate.

1 locker makes a world of difference. 2 lockers are even better. The debate would be in whether you lock the front or rear. I would wheel a bit open, then get the locker if you still want it.

 

[Brad M.]

Now your are gonna get this into a philosophical debate.

Yes, I love philosophizing over lockers.

Answer really depends on the type of wheeling you anticipate doing. If you're not going to be doing anything hardcore, but just want the added peace of mind in the event of a tight spot, one locker will do just fine.

Now, shall we philosophize over ARB, Detroit, or Ox Locker?

 

[Lake919]

After reading on quite a few forums I think I have decided to go with Detroit Lockers. For the most part the general opinion is that they are beastly and nearly indestructable. Therefore, I think I have made up my mind on that issue. So I guess I will go with one Detroit locker for the rear with 4.56 gears.

 

[1998xj1985]

After reading on quite a few forums I think I have decided to go with Detroit Lockers. For the most part the general opinion is that they are beastly and nearly indestructable. Therefore, I think I have made up my mind on that issue. So I guess I will go with one Detroit locker for the rear with 4.56 gears.

I'm telling you, talk to goatman on here about my old axles. not sure what freight is from ca to al but it may still be worth it.

gears + install kit ~ 300 x 2
detroit (used)~ 350-400 (new)~ 550
setup labor ~ 250 - 500 x 2 depending on hookups/shop

total = 1650 - 2150

d44 + 4.56 + detroit full locker ~ 750
d30 + 4.56 ~ ??? but much less than above axle

probably looking around 1k for the pair plus shipping.

 

[Lake919]

Ok just a few questions so I can finish up my revamped gear checklist. If I am running 33's everyone has said I need to regear to 4.56 gears. Do I have to regear the front as well as the rear? Never ran big tires on a vehicle and regeared. 4WD.com offers this:http://www.4wd.com/productdetails.aspx?jeep-sid=353&plID=354&partID=53086

Is thisworthit in anyone opinion?

 

[kastein]

Yes - if you want to be able to use 4wd, you want to regear both axles.

Some on here will tell you to go 4.88s instead of 4.56s for 33s. It's really up to you, 4.56 is closer to a "stock" ratio (which would actually be even lower numerically) but doesn't take into account greater rotational inertia or the fact that you're going to drive it over things a lot more, and over pavement a lot less. If you think you will EVER go up to 35s instead of 33s, hedge your bets and get higher ratio gearing, it's way cheaper to do it once than twice.

As for whether that's worth it... not really, you can pick up an XJ-configured d44 used on here or in a junkyard for 2-300 if you keep your eyes open and regear it for the prices above.

 

[Brad M.]

After reading on quite a few forums I think I have decided to go with Detroit Lockers. For the most part the general opinion is that they are beastly and nearly indestructable. Therefore, I think I have made up my mind on that issue. So I guess I will go with one Detroit locker for the rear with 4.56 gears.

While I agree with you that Detroits are great, if this rig is primarily a daily driver mixed with the occasional off road jaunt, you might want to rethink this and look at selectable lockers like ARB or the Ox. A mechanical locker like a Detroit has very different on-road characteristics, not to mention you will go through tires quicker.

Just a thought.

 

[Lake919]

Thanks for the tip.

Has anyone here used Rock Crawler Suspensions before? I found a RC triple threat 6.5" long arm suspension kit for my XJ for sale locally for 1800 bucks. Brand new. Is Rock Crawler a good brand? If I go 6.5 I can go to 35" tires. Another question, if I go to 35's should I gear to 4.88 or 5.13?

 

[1998xj1985]

Thanks for the tip.

Has anyone here used Rock Crawler Suspensions before? I found a RC triple threat 6.5" long arm suspension kit for my XJ for sale locally for 1800 bucks. Brand new. Is Rock Crawler a good brand? If I go 6.5 I can go to 35" tires. Another question, if I go to 35's should I gear to 4.88 or 5.13?

ok first off. call NASA, have them custom build some moon buggy axles for you out of a titanium/high-tensile moon noodle alloy. Then I would say your best bet is to get the RC suspension cause it's a good deal and keep it as a spare for the rubicon stuff, or possibly run them both at the same time for extra articulation. as for gears, nothing less than portal hubs and 7.13's front and rear will do. probably should throw in two atlas' for good measure as well.

seriously dude, you are way overbuilding this thing for something that you want to get you to places to kayak. the rig you're describing will be un-drivable on the road in very short order. I don't care how many bushwacker flares or ARB bumpers you throw at it. this thing will tear itself up quicker than you hose more money at it to fix it. i would recomend some 31" at's a 3.5" lift and a set of hiking boots to get you the rest of the way to where you want to set off from.

 

[VAhasnoWAVES]

ok first off. call NASA, have them custom build some moon buggy axles for you out of a titanium/high-tensile moon noodle alloy. Then I would say your best bet is to get the RC suspension cause it's a good deal and keep it as a spare for the rubicon stuff, or possibly run them both at the same time for extra articulation. as for gears, nothing less than portal hubs and 7.13's front and rear will do. probably should throw in two atlas' for good measure as well.

seriously dude, you are way overbuilding this thing for something that you want to get you to places to kayak. the rig you're describing will be un-drivable on the road in very short order. I don't care how many bushwacker flares or ARB bumpers you throw at it. this thing will tear itself up quicker than you hose more money at it to fix it. i would recomend some 31" at's a 3.5" lift and a set of hiking boots to get you the rest of the way to where you want to set off from.

hahaha.

ya, now your getting a bit over kill. caught that bug already didnt you?

id say stay somewhere around 3.5-5.5 inches and no bigger than 33s. i think anything bigger looks absolutely rediculous on an XJ that doesnt have some serious fender well modifications. anything bigger simply doesnt tuck up in those wells. with your solid budget you will be able to produce something that is extremely capable for your needs, and still be very comfortable on the road. just do it right the first time.

 

[Lake919]

Pics as promised

http://www.flickr.com/photos/47199194@N07/

Hope you like

 

[NW-ZJ-SCOTT]

for $10k.. i would do the following
$1200 Rough country 6.5" Long arm lift
$400 Bilstein shocks
$750 SYE and Tom woods driveshaft
$1500 Gears and lockers (i would go with Aussie lockers front and rear $250/ea)
$1200 Wheels and tires
$1500 winch/bumper/lights
$500 Roof rack
$500 Exhaust setup
$1000 Armor.. (belly skid/Tank skid/sliders etc)


plus a grand for labor etc, you should still have some money left over for little crap.:wave: