• Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.

Your Oil Recomendation

im buying oil today, so i go into wallys world and look for

mobil 15W50 with a red cap? and its recomended for my Jeep 4.0 2000
and a mobil one filter?

i thought it was 10w30! dead dinos!

thats what ive been using conventional 10w30 and k&n filters since i bought the jeep.

have a tiny drip from the oring buisness on the oil filter thing**
 
I've been running Mobil-1 10W30 in my XJ and our other 2 jeeps, son runs it in his TJ, his girlfriend runs it in her XJ and thats whats in his girlfriends mothers XJ. The only change we made was going from standard Mobil-1 to the 'high mileage' M1, not the extended stuff, the high mileage for older engines stuff.
I was poking around AA a little while ago looking at the various oils they have, going to stick with wallyworld and the 5 quart containers.
 
From listening to Mobil I'd run the extended drain 15w50. I ran the red top 15w50 in boats,dirtbikes,lawnmowers and my old CJ for years with never anything but good results. I think the extended drain is just a newer/better formulation and thats why they dropped the red top for a while. Popular demand and outcry made them bring it back. I have had no luck and good luck with snake oil stop leak addatives and would try it in a leaker. It's suposed to swell the seals. Synthetic is good because it's ability to creep into tight spaces but it also creeps out. I met a K&N rep at a off road show and he was cool enough to tell me that a Mobil one oil filter uses the exact same filter as a K&N oil filter. He said buy the K&N if you run real high oil pressure or need the drilled nut on the end for safty wire. Racing venues require safty wire on the filter. It has a nice thick strong can but filters the same. I think I'd still buy the K&N because if you bust a moter mount and the filter takes a beating it would be better to have the thick can plus it impressed me that a K&N rep would be so honest. They earned my buisiness the old fashon way. Honesty.
 
I dunno why they didn't recommend the 10w30 or 40 hi/mi. I used the 10w40 this past time and my psi stays b/t 55 and 75, so I'd bury the needle if I used a 15w50. I'm definitely gonna do the 10w30 hi/mi once I trade in the 10w40 I got during the last sale.
 
gradon said:
I dunno why they didn't recommend the 10w30 or 40 hi/mi.
It has to do with the anti friction modifier ZDDP or lack of it. Stick to the 4 oils on the list and run the turbo oil if you are convinced the thinner oil is best. I bet the Hi milage oil is hydro-cracked oil that is not even in the same league. They sell both full true synthetic and hydro cracked synthetic to compete with the rest. You can tell basically which is which from the price.
 
Stump spobi The Hi-milage and and all mobil one is hydorcracked and PAO!

If anyone's that concerned with this, buy amsoil or redline non API rated.
 
I've used the Valvoline High Mileage Synthetic Blend (red bottle) 10W-30 the last probably 5 I've done on either Jeep. It's worked great for me and Valvoline has been around long enough that they earn my trust. The one I absolutely stay away from is Pennzoil though :puke:.
 
RyanM said:
Stump spobi The Hi-milage and and all mobil one is hydorcracked and PAO!

If anyone's that concerned with this, buy amsoil or redline non API rated.
Like I said this crap changes every month but heres what even Amsoil says about Mobil one and the hydrocracked issue:
http://www.technilube.com/faqs_info/synth_diff.php
 
people need to stop guessing, and saying this oil is crap this one works great, this one's been around for a while and get a series of UOA's (and some VOA's), and you can talk factual! Then we can have an actual discussion, bc this is all hearsay!
 
RyanM said:
yea, if you drive a 2006 civic

Speaking of taking your OWN advice!! :rolleyes:

"people need to stop guessing, and saying this oil is crap this one works great, this one's been around for a while and get a series of UOA's (and some VOA's), and you can talk factual! Then we can have an actual discussion, bc this is all hearsay!"
 
crystalship1 said:
Speaking of taking your OWN advice!! :rolleyes:

"people need to stop guessing, and saying this oil is crap this one works great, this one's been around for a while and get a series of UOA's (and some VOA's), and you can talk factual! Then we can have an actual discussion, bc this is all hearsay!"
My 4.0 gets TLC, regular OCI's and Used sample every other change, so what are you exaclty saying?

I was simply saying those oil's are designed for todays engines with tighter bearing clearance and roller cams!(SM) (seen the VOA's- 700ppm ZDDP if your lucky) :rolleyes::cool:
 
I use Mobile 1 and a premium filter ever since a buddy of mine who was in a racing team educated me from his first hand experience. This racing team (they ran Vipers, BTW) would do a engine tear-down after every event. When they used premium dino-oil, they pretty much had to do a full rebuild as there was considerable component wear to major components. After they switched to Mobile 1, they did that first tear-down after the event and were very shocked to see that there was no real wear on the "normal suspect" components at all. They were able to run several events before having to replace any single component. Needless to say... using a premium synthetic oil was a good deal for them both financially and in mechanical down-time. I do my oil changes about every 6000-8000 miles and feel quite comfortable that I'm keeping my baby very healthy. Ohhh yeah...... IMHO!!! :rolleyes:

:cheers:
 
as for the oil type, I have a 89 XJ and I've run rotella 5w40 full syn for almost a quarter million miles with no leaks. BTW I don't think the engine has ever been rebuilt, so origal seals. I was thinking of going to royal purpel but wanted more info.
 
thegdmf said:
as for the oil type, I have a 89 XJ and I've run rotella 5w40 full syn for almost a quarter million miles with no leaks. BTW I don't think the engine has ever been rebuilt, so origal seals. I was thinking of going to royal purpel but wanted more info.
:cheers: 4.0's love the HDEO juice. I would stick with the blue jug stuff.

RyanM said:
:read:
http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=934354&highlight=mobil+high+mileage



I'm running rotella syn 5 40 in the blue gallon jug at walley 16 bucks!!!
 
RyanM said:
people need to stop guessing, and saying this oil is crap this one works great, this one's been around for a while
I guess that was aimed toward me, sorry for just stating my recommendation. I guess that must not have been what the original poster of this thread was wanting.
 
Amsoil has a 10w40 rated "SL" and is marketed towards us flat tappet guys.
That's what I just bought. I have been using the 10w30, but will switch over next change.
 
I would never buy the 'blended' dino/synth, if I was going to run a blend I'd buy 3 quarts of dino and 3 quarts of synthetic and 'mix my own' the oil companies won't tell you what the ratio is on their blends, gee, wonder why...
 
Back
Top