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Your Oil Recomendation

Yes I meant higher mileage not extended performance or whatever I said. I do have just shy of 300,000 kms or approx 180,000 miles. I called quaker state today and got a technical rep. He said that the newer Q horsepower oil 5W20 has a zddp rating of 950 ppm. Only when you get into the pennzoil racing oils does it go higher to the 1600 level. Now thats the horsepower, I've been using the regular Q full synthetic for the past couple of years. I've had no problems but I did notice a huge difference in length until oil became darkened with a KN filter tho. I drive approx. 40 miles round trip to work everyday and the filter will last 4-5 weeks until it's noticeably darker. That was a huge improvement. I do plan on going to the Mobil 1 high mileage, I don't know how available it is but I will try to run the 15W40 in the summer and probably 10W30 in winter or even thinner. I just did the filter swap this past weekend so I won't be switching for a couple of months but it will be good to get into a better routine for the jeep come spring. I don't think I can track down Rotella T 15w40 syn up here but I'm looking. Would that be a better choice or stick with the Mobil. Either way its going to be a great improvement. Great thread!
 
I wouldn't dump engine honey stop leak in. 20w-50 is thick enough.
The synthetic HD engine oil's are 5w-40. If you can not find rotellaTsyn, then I would run Mobil turbo truck.
 
I've been converted to Mobil 15W-50, Sounds about perfect for my climate. What do you guys recommend for a V-8? Like for my wife's 2002 G Cherokee? Same?
 
Gritts said:
I've been converted to Mobil 15W-50, Sounds about perfect for my climate. What do you guys recommend for a V-8? Like for my wife's 2002 G Cherokee? Same?

5w30

The Mobil 15w50 is a great oil for high RPM engines and flat tappet cams. Its truly great oil!
 
tkjeeper said:
Would that be a better choice or stick with the Mobil. Either way its going to be a great improvement. Great thread!

Its all up to you. Mobil 1 High Millage is great oil for our 4.0 XJ's! Hahah, if you want some really high ZDDP oil, look into the Amsoil thats NOT API rated. Its got a ton of ZDDP!
 
RyanM said:
Wow . The turbo diesel formulation will have to drop the phosphorus(the only way to drop this 'catalyst harmer' is to drop the main thing it is apart of) when Delvac1 goes to CJ4-SM ! Anything over 1000ppm zinc is okay in my mind! Today's new diesal 2007 motors have to work hader and run hotter, so to me, that seem's like a good oil to use in my junk.

The EP is basically mobil-1 with more of moly and boron, still no ZDDP at flat tap cam levels. You can run it longer, because they claim it will suspend more soot, but once that little gap is closed, it's over.

They stopped making SJ oils a long time ago, so the bottles of QUaker you are seeing are OLD.




Zinc is the stuff we want! phosphorus is just a way to get it into form for oil (Zinc dialkyl dithio phosphate):rolleyes:
Sigh..

I was just at the Advance Auto, they have QuakerState Q thats SJ rated. Aslo, when you see that phosphorus levels are down in the Truck oil, that means its going from 1300 PPM to 1000 or 1100. When speaking of ZDDP, phosphorus is actual thing were talking about.
 
Yeah, I think for the $10.00/quart up here that I will pass on the amsoil. I'm sure it's great oil but it should be for that! Unless I find a good source for Rotella it's Mobil 1 high mileage for me.
 
Gritts said:
I've been converted to Mobil 15W-50, Sounds about perfect for my climate. What do you guys recommend for a V-8? Like for my wife's 2002 G Cherokee? Same?
Mobil gave me it's recomendations for our inline 6cyl. engines. If you wifes rig has a roller cam then I would think any oil would be OK. I would run it in a weight Jeep recomends. I use Moble One Extended performance in a light weight for my wifes Buick. Rotella has allways been great also for old or flat tappet cam engines like the other guys are saying. Thats what my diesel truck and 1951 ford gas tractor get. tkjeeper said his oil stays cleaner a lot longer with a K&N filter. Same filter as the moblil one filter with a cheaper can. I noticed the same thing on my wifes car. If the engine is clean to start with then the oil stays clear for a month. It's a good felling to see since I stretch the oil changes on her car due to light use and hiway miles.
 
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The oil gets dark fast if you do alot of short runs, the wife drives 6 miles to school and 6 miles back, it barely warms up, It takes at least 20 minutes for the oil to reach operating temperature, after that 20 minutes it will start to cook off the rich fuel mixture and the condensation that is inside the engine and ends up in the oil as it warms up. I've mentioned it before and have noticed a couple of others mention it. Start your jeep, drive it till it reaches 190 then stop and shut it off, pull your dipstick and you will feel the oil is still cold or luke warm, not hot. The CCV system is what pulls that cooked off moisture and gas but until it gets hot the ccv won't do squat in that department.
 
My 1989 MJ with a 4.0 has 95,000 miles on it. I am a little afraid of starting to use synthetic oil at this point for fear developing oil leaks. What would be the best NON-synthetic to use?
 
Stumpalump said:
Mobil gave me it's recomendations for our inline 6cyl. engines. If you wifes rig has a roller cam then I would think any oil would be OK. I would run it in a weight Jeep recomends. I use Moble One Extended performance in a light weight for my wifes Buick. Rotella has allways been great also for old or flat tappet cam engines like the other guys are saying. Thats what my diesel truck and 1951 ford gas tractor get. tkjeeper said his oil stays cleaner a lot longer with a K&N filter. Same filter as the moblil one filter with a cheaper can. I noticed the same thing on my wifes car. If the engine is clean to start with then the oil stays clear for a month. It's a good felling to see since I stretch the oil changes on her car due to light use and hiway miles.
Actually, you want the oil to get dark, that means its cleaning. I would shy away from a filter/oil that stays clear on the dipstick for a month. K&N filters are $12.00-14.00 and the M1 filter is $9.00.
As far as a non-synthetic oil goes (I found out its not "dyno" oil, its plankton oil!), I use Valvoline Max Life. I have never ever had a leak using it and it seems to do a great job of cleaning the sludge-like crap out of the crank case. I just rebuilt a chevy 396 that used Max Life for the past 6 years and it was amazing that after 190,000 miles there was nearly no sludge on the oil pan or valley. Other than the fact its API SM, its a good oil if you use some kind of additive only if you have flat lifters. I used EOS from GM, before they pulled it off the shelves at the local dealerships.
 
I just wonder, I got the mobil 1 15w50, its been cold here and I make several short trips that never really let the engine warm up, Im talkin 2-4 miles only. WOuld a heavier or lighter oil be better then??
 
solditforajeep said:
I just wonder, I got the mobil 1 15w50, its been cold here and I make several short trips that never really let the engine warm up, Im talkin 2-4 miles only. WOuld a heavier or lighter oil be better then??

Lighter. The lighter the oil, the easier it is for it to flow when it's stone cold in the morning. I'd probably go with a 5W30 in the cold winter months where you are, and switch to a 10W30 once it gets to the warmer months.
 
solditforajeep said:
I just wonder, I got the mobil 1 15w50, its been cold here and I make several short trips that never really let the engine warm up, Im talkin 2-4 miles only. WOuld a heavier or lighter oil be better then??

Like was just said, 5w30 would be good for the temps. Its gonna be -15 here in the next 14 hours! You would be fine with 15w50 in temps above 20.
 
Go buy a 5 quart 10W30 Mobil-1 'high mileage' jugs and a 1 quart of the same, you can also use 5W30 but I've not noticed it in the 'high mileage' flavor. We have not had a really cold winter around here in a few years but it was -5 a few days ago and mine fired right up with the 10W30. Another option would be to do one 5 quart container of 10W30 and one quart of 0W30 which ballparks to 8W30. As long as you use the high mileage Mobil-1 the ZDDP levels are still acceptable.
 
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