gird123
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- minden, nv
-
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xj steering
- Thread starter gird123
- Start date
And I think you missed my point as well. IMO, a well built track bar is just as crucial in the steering system as it is in the 4 link... But to each his own.
No, unfortunately I dont. Im sure a quick google search would come up with something good.
gird123
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- minden, nv
So i replaced the track bar bushing at the frame. It is the stock size on the re1600 i used the poly upgrade and replaced the steering stabilizer as well. It helped a lot. Still has a little wobble, but it is no longer trying to flip the jeep at 60.
So i looked and the high pinion is supposed to have a castor of 86 and the low pinion is supposed to be 84. Mine is 86 can 2 degree change the ride a lot?
So i looked and the high pinion is supposed to have a castor of 86 and the low pinion is supposed to be 84. Mine is 86 can 2 degree change the ride a lot?
The stabilizer is probably doing its job. It will wear out rather quick it doesn't sound like you fixed the problem.
Sorry to say it your opinion is wrong. There is no opinion to what does and doesn't belong in steering components. The tracbar centers the axle it is part of the suspension. Not the steering. While having a good one is cool and all and if it fails the jeep does start to pull its no more a steering component than a tire or a brake, both XXXX with the steering if you have the wrong one or they are bad and that still doesn't make them a steering component. Panhard is part of a four link suspension not steering end of story. Hence why its in suspension diagrams and not steering ones.
Sorry to say it your opinion is wrong. There is no opinion to what does and doesn't belong in steering components. The tracbar centers the axle it is part of the suspension. Not the steering. While having a good one is cool and all and if it fails the jeep does start to pull its no more a steering component than a tire or a brake, both XXXX with the steering if you have the wrong one or they are bad and that still doesn't make them a steering component. Panhard is part of a four link suspension not steering end of story. Hence why its in suspension diagrams and not steering ones.
Last edited:
- Location
- Rainy side of Washington
hmmmm.
looking in the rockauto parts catalog, the track bar is under 'suspension' with the control arms.
the steering links, steering box, and TREs are all cleverly hidden in the 'steering' section.
Yep, gonna go with the track bar being part of the suspension not the steering.
That being said, you will lose steering if you lose the track bar, obviously. But you'll lose brakes if you lose your control arms, and the control arms clearly aren't part of the brake system.
looking in the rockauto parts catalog, the track bar is under 'suspension' with the control arms.
the steering links, steering box, and TREs are all cleverly hidden in the 'steering' section.
Yep, gonna go with the track bar being part of the suspension not the steering.
That being said, you will lose steering if you lose the track bar, obviously. But you'll lose brakes if you lose your control arms, and the control arms clearly aren't part of the brake system.
Peteyg
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Corona, CA
Actually, you don't lose steering if you lose the track bar. The steering still works. It's just steering the body instead of the axle 
gird123
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- minden, nv
replaced the stabilizer and trackbar bushing. Finally took it in to a local place and had them do the alignment and asked them to look to make sure everything was ok. Said everything is ok and the alignment was very close. On the way home it tryed to wobble off the road. No better. Bummer. Next i will replace the control arm bushings. They have a little play.
- Location
- Rainy side of Washington
I've seen it.
replacing the control arms with other stock control arms with less-worn bushings fixed it.
gird123
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- minden, nv
The control arm bushings were 50 so i will do that. Then who knows. The local shop said my steering box and ball joints are good. So how do i check the wheel bearings. The Cherokee has 138k could the wheel bearings be bad?
VAhasnoWAVES
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Lake City, Mi
possible... especially if you have large offset and wheel a lot.
try the "12 and 6" and "3 and 9" trick to see if you have play in your unit bearings.
try the "12 and 6" and "3 and 9" trick to see if you have play in your unit bearings.
gird123
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- minden, nv
Could you direct me to a link to the trick
Not saying the local shop is wrong but if you want to test the ball joints yourself. Jack one front wheel at a time off the ground. Using a long pry bar or piece of pipe attempt to pry up under the tire while at the same time holding onto the tire. If you feel any movement or 'clunks' your ball joints are probably bad. This can contribute to DW. To test for the wheel bearings; again with the wheel off the ground grab the wheel and attempt to shake it side to side. If you feel any slop make sure its not in the tie rods and if not you may have a bad bearing. This will also contribute to DW.
My personal case ended up being a combination of ball joints and control arm bushings. Replaced the ball joints and it cleared it most of the way up. Replaced the control arm bushings and it went completely away.
VAhasnoWAVES
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Lake City, Mi
no link...
just grab with your hands at the corresponding clock positions. try to wiggle the tire up and down (12 and 6) and side to side (9 and 3). if it wiggles up and down, BJs may be shot. if it wiggles left and right, check your unit bearings.
gird123
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- minden, nv
Ok, so the wobble is basically gone. I replaced the drag link and the control arm bushings.
Has anyone adjusted the steering box on a 2001? I was working on my jeep and a friend said I should move the steering wheel with the jeep off(I had not done that yet only running) and it looks like there is quite a bit of play in the steering box itself.
For the track bar bushing at the axle i just drilled a few holes through the bushing and it fell out, then I used a big clamp with little blocks of wood to press in. The control arm bushing were a p.i.t.a. I had to remove the inner sleeve with a bottle jack and cut a little groove in the metal with a saws-all then hit it with hammer and chisel. If you do the control arms make sure you get the bolts they are 120mm long, 14x2.00mm. The lower bolts on both control arms were damaged.
Has anyone adjusted the steering box on a 2001? I was working on my jeep and a friend said I should move the steering wheel with the jeep off(I had not done that yet only running) and it looks like there is quite a bit of play in the steering box itself.
For the track bar bushing at the axle i just drilled a few holes through the bushing and it fell out, then I used a big clamp with little blocks of wood to press in. The control arm bushing were a p.i.t.a. I had to remove the inner sleeve with a bottle jack and cut a little groove in the metal with a saws-all then hit it with hammer and chisel. If you do the control arms make sure you get the bolts they are 120mm long, 14x2.00mm. The lower bolts on both control arms were damaged.
- Location
- Rainy side of Washington
Make sure you get 10.9 or 12.9 grade bolts, too, not just your regular 8.8 grade.
Most who replace bushings in stock control arms simply buy new arms with preloaded bushings, because installing them really does suck.
Most who replace bushings in stock control arms simply buy new arms with preloaded bushings, because installing them really does suck.
gird123
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- minden, nv
Bent tie rod = death wobble at 40. I thought it was going to flip the jeep. I could see the hood flexing.
New tie rod = death wobble at 40
DS1312 Long tie rod $50
ES3096L Short tie rod end $20
ES2079S Adjustment sleeve $15
Tires are shot so:
New tires Goodyear duratrac at discount tires set of 4 $725. Death wobble at 40
New Track bar bushing at the axle moog #k3176 $16.
Weld track bar bracket at frame. No more death wobble but still wobble at 40 and 55 not willing to go over 55.
Back to discount for balance and rotate. Wobble at 40 and 55
Check steering at local shop. Free. Everything is in spec. Suggest Tie rod at pitman arm, u joint on driver side, and suggest alignment and balance.
New tie rod at pitman arm (i think ES3096L same as above) $20 Wobble
New u joint drivers side. $25 wobble
New stabilizer $30 wobble
Back to discount tire and road force balance done for free at discount tire.
Local shop alignment and check everything looks good to them $70. No change in wobble still at 40 and 55.
At this point I have had 2 local shops and a few friends jack it up and check all the components for play. I tried ”the "12 and 6" and "3 and 9" trick” about a million times.
Tuesday I notice the control arm bushings had play. About a ½ inch of movement.
Yesterday:
What the hell New drag link (ds1238) $50
New lower control arm bushings $50 for all 4.
And tighten the steering box. This makes me nervous because I have heard it can destroy the box. I tightened the hex nut at the top of the steering box an 1/8 of a turn.
This morning on the way to work the wobble was gone. I kept slowing down and speeding up to 75.
Carson city Discount Tire is great to work with
New tie rod = death wobble at 40
DS1312 Long tie rod $50
ES3096L Short tie rod end $20
ES2079S Adjustment sleeve $15
Tires are shot so:
New tires Goodyear duratrac at discount tires set of 4 $725. Death wobble at 40
New Track bar bushing at the axle moog #k3176 $16.
Weld track bar bracket at frame. No more death wobble but still wobble at 40 and 55 not willing to go over 55.
Back to discount for balance and rotate. Wobble at 40 and 55
Check steering at local shop. Free. Everything is in spec. Suggest Tie rod at pitman arm, u joint on driver side, and suggest alignment and balance.
New tie rod at pitman arm (i think ES3096L same as above) $20 Wobble
New u joint drivers side. $25 wobble
New stabilizer $30 wobble
Back to discount tire and road force balance done for free at discount tire.
Local shop alignment and check everything looks good to them $70. No change in wobble still at 40 and 55.
At this point I have had 2 local shops and a few friends jack it up and check all the components for play. I tried ”the "12 and 6" and "3 and 9" trick” about a million times.
Tuesday I notice the control arm bushings had play. About a ½ inch of movement.
Yesterday:
What the hell New drag link (ds1238) $50
New lower control arm bushings $50 for all 4.
And tighten the steering box. This makes me nervous because I have heard it can destroy the box. I tightened the hex nut at the top of the steering box an 1/8 of a turn.
This morning on the way to work the wobble was gone. I kept slowing down and speeding up to 75.
Carson city Discount Tire is great to work with
- Location
- Aberdeen, MD
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