• Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.

XJ Cooling System Deficiencies & Solutions

tsill said:
So you got it running w/o overheating and then modified it. Why didn't you just leave it alone. You say stock is marginal but it sure seemed to finally run w/o overheating once you took it to someone who knows what there doing. I bet you have a reverse rotation pump in there and don't even know it.
Click to expand...

:huh: the stock pump is reverse rotation (back of the belt drives it)
 
BarFlyFisherman said:
Goatman - You don't need to be a condenscending d!¢kh#@d. We'd all be better if you shared your vast years of wasted time, experience, and worthless knowledge, instead of passing judgement on us clueless idiots who needlessly pad the pockets of the aftermarket auto parts manufacturers. Words to remember - a sniper doesn't give away his presence until he fires!

The OEM cooling system still sucks, regardless of the problems that I'm individually having. You say that the OEM cooling system is great... then blab on about how the radiator is the wrong shape, airflow insufficient, blah, blah, blah... Which side of your face are you going to talk out of next?

Damn it BarFlyFishermanan! Calm the F**k down! I Have a 98 XJ that runs @ 220* with the A/C on in the Arizona summer! Do I have to say STOCK RADIATOR AND STOCK EVERYTHING!!!!! By AZ summer I mean 120 degrees plus, and idling along trails with the A/C on. If your sh!t aitn't working in your climate, than you are obviously a sh!tty shadetree mechanic. My stock aluminum/plastic tanked radiator seems to do fine in this "hell on earth" scenario. So calm down and either sell your pile of sh!t, or replace the cooling system to "as stock as possible" and stop whining like a little girl.

EDIT:

I see that you've got your XJ moving without overheating. Good job brother. I still KNOW that a great running STOCK system still works better that anything else out there. AZ/PHX approved & tested f**kers!

N8
Click to expand...
 
Last edited:
DORMAN Part # 902305 $10 bucks at Rock Auto. Got this and an overflow to replace my busted pressure bottle and cured my over heating problem. The stock hose is to small but I made it work.

getimage.php
 
helliphinon8 said:
BarFlyFisherman said:
Goatman - You don't need to be a condenscending d!¢kh#@d. We'd all be better if you shared your vast years of wasted time, experience, and worthless knowledge, instead of passing judgement on us clueless idiots who needlessly pad the pockets of the aftermarket auto parts manufacturers. Words to remember - a sniper doesn't give away his presence until he fires!

The OEM cooling system still sucks, regardless of the problems that I'm individually having. You say that the OEM cooling system is great... then blab on about how the radiator is the wrong shape, airflow insufficient, blah, blah, blah... Which side of your face are you going to talk out of next?



N8
Click to expand...


Damn dude. Goatman is living rent free in your dense skull. The last time he responded was over 3 months ago and gave pretty sound advice there.

Oh wait, did I just get a sniper reticle on me??!?

Sent from tapatalk on iJunk
Click to expand...
 
IF you read this from the beginning, you'd have both realized and noticed that the overheating was occurring PRIOR to replacing the radiator (and possibly at that time installing a bent radiator cap flange).

Towed a 4,500 pound trailer up the grapevine to Tejon Ranch last weekend with the A/C on and loaded with gear. The temperature didn't budge past normal. I'm sold on the larger radiator, relocated A/T cooler, triple electric fans, and variable flowrate Flow Kooler water pump.

And, I can troll the hunting grounds without sounding like a Vietnam era Huey at treetop level!

Confidence in your rig does not have a price tag!
 
I have a 96 (auto and A/C) with the 10-blade (straight blade design) electric fan that needs replacing. I see that the ones listed (Team Cherokee and RockAuto) for my year are 6-blade design and the '97+ 10-blade has curved blades.

I understand that the '96 is a weird tweener year, with a mix of both the old and new. Is the curved 10-blade an updated design? The phone rep (and supervisor) at TeamCherokee told me that they could not guarantee part compatibility of either fan.

Will the '97+ fan work with my '96 system? Is the '97+ fan a plug-and-play with the older system (if that's what I have)?

Cheers,
D
 
Sigman said:
Will the '97+ fan work with my '96 system? Is the '97+ fan a plug-and-play with the older system (if that's what I have)?
Click to expand...

I have one of the last 96's, and it has the curved 10-blade fan, identical to my 98. But they do NOT have the same connectors, so plug-n-play is a no go. I bought a two circuit weatherpack connector kit from Painless Performance that will work if I wanted to swap the fan. http://www.painlessperformance.com/webcatalog/largeview.php?SearchField=70402

70402 is the right part number, but I think the picture on the Painless sight is wrong, as it doesn't look exactly like the part I have.
 
As can be seen in my signature, I am running an electric water pump as well as dual electric fans. Currently the main fan is a Ford 8c607 series 2 speed out of a late model Taurus but I am thinking of dumping it for a second post 97 stock fan as it appears to move more air than the Ford.

Most of the time, the Heep runs between 194 and 201 degrees. Not too bad...
 
o-gauge-steamer said:
As can be seen in my signature, I am running an electric water pump as well as dual electric fans. Currently the main fan is a Ford 8c607 series 2 speed out of a late model Taurus but I am thinking of dumping it for a second post 97 stock fan as it appears to move more air than the Ford.

Most of the time, the Heep runs between 194 and 201 degrees. Not too bad...
Click to expand...
Can you post up some specs, pix of your electric water pump setup please?
 
mbennett said:
I understand that the dual electric fan setup works well, but i personally would avoid it like the plauge for this simple reason: on a late night trail run alone your alternator gets filled with mud and stops charging, your electric fans drain your battery while not providing enough cooling. Now you're in the woods with a dead electrical system...and you're overheating and you realize you'd be driving out instead of walking if you had a mech. fan! that was a long walk, and cold too. just my .02 :doh:
Click to expand...

My 2007 Jeep Liberty came out of the factory with just the electric fan. I upgraded to the OE heavy duty cooling system that has the mechanical fan and electric fan for the exact same reason that you have noted. I’ve known too many Jeepers who’ve had their electric fan stop working for a number of reasons and couldn’t make it home due to having no mechanical fan. Just like many have said in this thread, it’s best to stick with factory components and make sure everything is in good working order.
 
Most OEM and imported electric fans do not have sealed motors. They easily fail when sprayed with water from a water crossing or a burst radiator hose. Most have cheap plastic blades that get soft at higher temperatures, flattening out, moving even less air than their rated CFM's.

I am running triple FF Dynamics Triple Threat Extreme 10" fans with their custom shroud. The individual fans have curved aluminum blades and run at a higher rpm than their stock fans. They move more CFM's than their stock glass filled fans and still draw less than 6 amps each.

Advantages over a mechanical fan:

  1. they can be turned off while crossing water - preventing water from being sucked up into the engine compartment flooding the engine electronics / spraying the alternator!
  2. they can be forced ON in high temperature situations to prevent the temperature fluctuations that occur with the on/off cycles of the mechanical fan.
  3. they can be forced OFF in freezing temperatures when the fans are not needed at all.
  4. the redundancy provides the ability to "limp" back to base camp - it is highly unlikely that all 3 fans will ever fail simultaneously.
  5. they can be hard wired in an emergency to provide them power in the event of another system / relay malfunction (can't do that with a bad fan clutch!)
  6. they take the stress off of the water pump, bearings, and impeller
  7. improved gas mileage
  8. all 3 fans come on when the A/C it activated
  9. they run quieter that the stock HUEY ROTOR BLADES, so the insertion team can be delivered closer to their prey

Each XJ owner uses their vehicle differently. I use mine to hunt in the back woods, national forests, hill climb loose dirt roads on private lands and the rutted dirt roads of my private ranch behind Carmel Valley. I do not do rock climbing or make deep water crossings. I cross a creek on my ranch on a paved concrete slab that's under a maximum of 12" of water (this winter's 12" was the highest that I've seen in 15 years). I am rarely more than 15 miles from my base camp - an easy hike!

I've got dual batteries, so in the even of an alternator failure, I could probably make it back to my base camp. Most of the base camps seems to be at lower elevations, so the trek back is usually downhill - I'd just require idle speeds to make it.

And as any XJ owner knows, the most important things to have along on any trip are a good set of hiking boots and a McGyver attitude.

Has anyone ever seen an "alternator shield" that would deflect water from entering the vent slots on the bottom of the alternator?
 
BarFlyFisherman said:
I am running triple FF Dynamics Triple Threat Extreme 10" fans with their custom shroud.
Click to expand...

this has my interest piqued. it's a bit of a pricey upgrade and i wonder if it's worth it.
 
BarFlyFisherman said:
they take the stress off of the water pump, bearings, and impeller
Click to expand...
I am not sure how the late models are set up but on my '92 the fan was mounted to an idler pulley so it has no effect on the water pump removing the engine driven fan. I'm not sure the presence of a fan on a water pump pulley has much of an effect on bearing life.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

D
Cooling Fan Switch And Temp Sensor Recommendations
Replies
10
Views
205
DirtySouthXJ
D
X
Replacing my entire cooling system
2
Replies
23
Views
4K
RCP Phx
R
Root Moose
Cooling System Reset (2000 XJ)
Replies
1
Views
1K
Rob Mayercik
R
V
High temp woes
2
Replies
31
Views
675
Bent
Bent
N
New Engine is hard starting
Replies
0
Views
34
NGThomas
N
Back
Top