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The "pros" on are better than your local "pros". You just gotta read enough posts to know who they are. Consider all posts, but once you identify the best on , you are onto you best resource for problem solving.
Depends on who the local "pros" are but yes. I'll put O Gauge, 5-90, Old_Man, Joe Peters et al up against 97% of the guys with an ASE card in their wallet. Like me, for instance.
Your local pro may have a lot of general knowledge but the experienced folks on here have a lot of specific knowledge of our specific vehicles. I would trust the info offered on here over any general mechanic's advice.
Depends on who the local "pros" are but yes. I'll put O Gauge, 5-90, Old_Man, Joe Peters et al up against 97% of the guys with an ASE card in their wallet. Like me, for instance.
ASE = I can pass a test but may or may not know how to apply my learned book knowledge.
The XJ has the same basic cooling issues I had with my tri 5 chevys and Large block chevy mills. Great while moving but soon as you stop here comes the heat. Raised rear of hood on 55 chevy (old school trick I heard ) solved alot of my temp spikes that car had fender liners and no way for air to move thru engine bay (just lie an xj) .I will try this on my xj or I will vent the hood as ive seen.
Last summer I added a restrictor as per go jeep and it calmed my rising temp issue down to manageble. I found the fan clutch was bad also so I replaced it and it works ok . im leaning towards hood vents from synergy as I can get a few different styles.
Depends on who the local "pros" are but yes. I'll put O Gauge, 5-90, Old_Man, Joe Peters et al up against 97% of the guys with an ASE card in their wallet. Like me, for instance.
ASE = I can pass a test but may or may not know how to apply my learned book knowledge.
The XJ has the same basic cooling issues I had with my tri 5 chevys and Large block chevy mills. Great while moving but soon as you stop here comes the heat. Raised rear of hood on 55 chevy (old school trick I heard ) solved alot of my temp spikes that car had fender liners and no way for air to move thru engine bay (just lie an xj) .I will try this on my xj or I will vent the hood as ive seen.
Last summer I added a restrictor as per go jeep and it calmed my rising temp issue down to manageble. I found the fan clutch was bad also so I replaced it and it works ok . im leaning towards hood vents from synergy as I can get a few different styles.
Shrug.
I don't know where it comes from, this thing with the XJ system being insufficient. Mine has gone wheeling with oversize tires on stock gears in a Moab summer, towed trailers up the Rockies, etc - never had it overheat until I went with an electric fan and tried to tow more than 5K. I mean, I try to keep my junk in good repair but I haven't done anything special to it and I've never had a problem.
Shrug.
I don't know where it comes from, this thing with the XJ system being insufficient. Mine has gone wheeling with oversize tires on stock gears in a Moab summer, towed trailers up the Rockies, etc - never had it overheat until I went with an electric fan and tried to tow more than 5K. I mean, I try to keep my junk in good repair but I haven't done anything special to it and I've never had a problem.
Mine has never boiled over but it runs over 210* and that is alittle hot to me even tho I know it is ok. my issue was the way it was getting there .
Traffic light and it started to climb and just did not seem to come down when I got rolling again.
My jeep had 187K on it when I got it from my wife she kept it up but not great. The shocks were OE, it had and still does loose water (which I just caught it leaking at the Tstat housing), cracked injector bodies on 2 injectors. Oh well I will do a few things before this summer to make it live alittle easier. Im gathering parts to do a 5.3 swap so im just trying to keep this thing running till I have all the parts gathered.
I'm still open to any suggestions... It still periodically overheats when climbing steep grades with the A/C on. It will be perfect at 210ºF all day, then instantly spike to 260ºF for no reason. I'll pull over, turn on the heater and let it cool off and it's fine for another few days.
Usually a steep grade like the Grapevine (Castaic), Hwy 17 (Santa Cruz Mtns), Cuesta Grade (San Luis Obispo) or Dinosaur Point (San Luis Reservoir) will cause it to spike.
The vacuum also drops out, shuts off the cruise control and defaults the air to the defroster (another issue)?
They've tested the vac system and it does not have any leaks.
The vacuum issue is nothing new, a bigger or additional reservoir may help. I suggest looking at using Evans waterless coolant. It doesn't necessarily cool any better than regular coolant but it won't boil until about 300* or so. That means it continues to fully coat the metal in the engine and remove heat up to the hottest temps your engine could get. It also positively prevents corrosion.
Maybe someone can find what ails their cooling system & find the singular fix.
Here are 2 images of ONE of the FF Dynamics Extreme fans with the shroud attached, prior to mounting. This is the NEWEST design with cast aluminum blades - absolutely no flex or distortion.
I measured the speed of the air flow with an anemometer at 21mph. At 10" diameter & a little math that calculates out to 1007 CFM per fan. (Every good sniper owns an anemometer - wind meter to calculate bullet drift).
I'll post images of the 3 installed fans as soon as I get a chance to photograph them.
Hmm... Aluminum blades... It is strange that they have the same exact casting marks on the back of them as my silver plastic ones do. You would think when they changed to the aluminum blades they wouldn't be using the same exact molds used for the plastic ones. Or that the new molds wouldn't have the same exact casting marks. Or that thier website still after 3 years wouldn't say anything about the cast aluminum blades.
I was in Monterey this weekend too. I would have loved to see them in person.
My intermittent cooling problem turned out to be a bad connector on the electric fan. It took a while to figure out it wasn't always working. Soldered in a new connector, and it seems to be working fine now. Time will tell...
A completely stock good working system is all you really need. If there are no issues at all. You will not have problems. I have been out wheeling in 95-100 degree weather with the ac on, with only one stock electric fan. No clutch fan. I took it off over a year ago to upgrade to dual electric fans and never got around to it.
I am not saying dont upgrade your jeep. Just saying to make sure everything else is right first. It doesnt help to upgrade and only cover up another problem.
A refreshed stock cooking system is perfect for 9 out of 10 people I would say. However, if it came time to replace the radiator and water pump I would upgrade those with something slightly better since I would already be in there anyways.
Does anyone have any reviews on the flowkooler water pump?? I just ordered one and it seems like a good buy. I just wanna know if it worked for anyone/ any issues with it?
I have installed two Flowkooler pumps. One in a SBC street rod that had cooling issues. Pump did not eliminate the issue but it did improve cooling and water flow. It flowed much better than original style pump.
With the success of that, when my CSF radiator failed I replaced the water pump while replacing the radiator. Just did it as the original pump had 90,000 miles on it. No issues with pump. XJ seems to cool better in 100+ temps with the A/C on but I have no data to back that up. Just seems to be lower on the stock temp gauge. Again no proof of that.
I had bad luck with the copper radiators. I don't know why but the 3-row CSF copper did not cool well, especially on the highway. I installed a 2 row aluminum and it fixed the issues.
I had bad luck with the copper radiators. I don't know why but the 3-row CSF copper did not cool well, especially on the highway. I installed a 2 row aluminum and it fixed the issues.
Or any 3 core for that matter. My Champion 3 core turned out to be a pile of junk.
It seems that the 3 cores simply don't work as efficiently as the 2 core. Champion also had an issue with the brazing process which lead to them eventually leaking. They discontinued the 3 core entirely due to all the issues people were having.
I've had a CSF three row for several years now and haven't been particularly impressed with it. It's held up just fine, but doesn't seem to cool any better than a stock radiator. Also, as far as I know, CSF makes no claim that it's copper, just that it's all metal. I suspect it's brass.
Aside, I do recommend the flowcooler pump. It makes a noticeable difference by itself.
I have the new Mishimoto radiator on pre-order and am eager to see how it does.
are better than your local "pros". You just gotta read enough posts to know who they are. Consider all posts, but once you identify the best on 
