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Which U joints do you run???

maineiac said:
i buy the cheep napa u joints ,i keep an extra one in the glove box. I would rather break a 10 dollar u joint than an axle shaft . but thats just me

The only expendable "weak link" that isn't likely to cause collateral damage is a hub fuse, and they are easy to change. I don't know how often you would end up having to change them though. Probably alot if you have ctms and alloys, of course then you wouldn't need them.
 
ok so as far as welding the caps do you think it is necessary on a D30 with Warn shafts,Warn Hubs, 760's ,35"tires and a lock rite? I have been considering doing this but had mixed feelings about it. Didnt meen to hi jack.
 
jeepme said:
ok so as far as welding the caps do you think it is necessary on a D30 with Warn shafts,Warn Hubs, 760's ,35"tires and a lock rite? I have been considering doing this but had mixed feelings about it. Didnt meen to hi jack.

No, DO NOT weld the caps on alloy shafts, it would void your warranty. As I posted above they do not stretch as easily as the stock junk, plus they come setup for snap rings anyway.
 
Great thanks Jes thats what I thought but just wanted to make sure. Hey where are you in SF I work down by the embarcadero
 
running CTMs and warns...broken both several times(everything has its breaking point) they cost big bucks , but both have a lifetime warrenty. I only carry one spare joint and one spare warn outer. if more than that breaks , thats why the trailer is there.....
Oh yeah, thats with a stroker motor, front d44 and ARB. the last carnage wiped out the joint, the shaft, and the ARB, course it was typical southern redneck wheeling(6 grand and hanging on)...all warrentied.
no breakage you want? a 60 with CTM shafts and joints....haven't broken that yet...course shafts and joints for it push the 3 grand mark.
 
basalt51 said:
The only expendable "weak link" that isn't likely to cause collateral damage is a hub fuse, and they are easy to change. I don't know how often you would end up having to change them though. Probably alot if you have ctms and alloys, of course then you wouldn't need them.
the other problems with Hub Fuses are

1) they're designed to break just before a 297x joint, now 760x joints are out and are quite a bit stronger, so you'll be breaking them way before you would break a 760x

2) hub fuses arent' more prone to break when the wheels are turned, u-joints are. so either they made them weak enough that they're still weaker than a 297 fully turned in which case you'll break them prematurely when going straight, OR they made them just weaker than a 297 straight in which case you'll still break the 297 and not the fuse when you're turned.
 
Mark Hinkley said:
Who says this?

Quote a MFG data sheet/spec please.


hinkley

An associate took a press and compared the two and there seemed to be no difference. We were told by Spicer that the only difference was the grease seals. The seals in the 760's are better to keep the grease in and the water out.

-Mike
 
Big Jeep 101 said:
We were told by Spicer that the only difference was the grease seals. The seals in the 760's are better to keep the grease in and the water out.

-Mike

We have a wiener!!!!!!!!!!!!

hinkley
 
Big Jeep 101 said:
An associate took a press and compared the two and there seemed to be no difference. We were told by Spicer that the only difference was the grease seals. The seals in the 760's are better to keep the grease in and the water out.

-Mike

:rolleyes:
Ya right, everyone knows that 760s are stronger. Besides, I read it on the internet once. :D
 
Jes said:
:rolleyes:
Ya right, everyone knows that 760s are stronger. Besides, I read it on the internet once. :D

Did you read it in the same place that said a high pinion D30 has the same strength as a low pinion D44 or a Super 35 was as strong as a D44? Hasta

-Mike
 
Big Jeep 101 said:
Did you read it in the same place that said a high pinion D30 has the same strength as a low pinion D44 or a Super 35 was as strong as a D44? Hasta

-Mike

No, it was the place that recommended the Timken muffler bearings. ;)
 
It says right on the Warn hub-fuse package that they're designed for use with 297x joints.

as for 760 vs. 297:

August '04 Issue of Off-Road Adventures (4wpw magazine/catalog):

"The new 760x cold forged Spicer is good for about 5.400 lbs-ft. The old 297s joint was good for about 4.600 lbs-ft."

This was found by destructive testing, along with OX joints and other superjoints (CTMs, maybe Longfields). Yeah, the testers may have fudged the numbers a bit for the OX vs. CTM, but there would be absolutely no reason to falsely tell people that one Spicer joint is stronger than another Spicer joint, especially when one is discontinued and they're trying to sell OX joints, not Spicers.
 
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BrettM said:
as for 760 vs. 297:

August '04 Issue of Off-Road Adventures (4wpw magazine/catalog):

I'm sorry YOU READ it in a MAGAZINE!!!!!!!!!!!

I guess the guys who make it don't know shit!


hinkley
 
I personaly have been running the Spicer 760's with no problem in CrMo shafts. In fact, I twisted the long side splines and diddnt break the Joint. I have just aquired CTM's and those will be going in soon......just in time for BOTW, or Moab, wich ever is first.....:)


Joe
 
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