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What to do?

Vanimal said:
haha touche
i even felt guilty about spending $30 on new headliner material since my old one was falling down and gross. i know i'll never see that $30 again....
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ha! my headliner started falling down yesterday... the fabric is in good shape so I'm just gonna re-do the adhesive.... but not for a few weeks at most.
 
Stuff a new ring and pinion into the polished 30 for $150-180, then sell it to someone who doesn't believe the "35s will break a 30" bit yet, or is happy on 33s... add the money to the 44 budget.

I wouldn't go with the Bronco axle, hell with radius arms. Find yourself an hp 44 and shorten it (it isn't the hardest thing to do from what I understand*, I intend to do my own.)

Also, a friend of mine just looked into custom length axleshafts and reportedly the company he went with only charges like ten bucks extra for custom length vs an off-the-shelf application. I'll ask where he was buying from.

* from what I understand, you cut the welds holding the inner C in question on, hammer the inner C off the tube, measure five times, cut the inner C to the right length, bevel the outside of the end of the tube and the inner C where the tube goes into it, hammer it back on, carefully (i.e. whack it with a BFH) turn the inner C until the caster / pinion angle are set right (optionally cut the other inner C loose and do the same angle there too, if you want pinion angle perfect for your rig instead of having to compromise), then burn it on. Inner Cs are forged or cast steel, not cast iron, so you aren't going to cause any damage by welding it with a MIG welder iirc.
 
kastein said:
Stuff a new ring and pinion into the polished 30 for $150-180, then sell it to someone who doesn't believe the "35s will break a 30" bit yet, or is happy on 33s... add the money to the 44 budget.

....

* from what I understand, you cut the welds holding the inner C in question on, hammer the inner C off the tube, measure five times, cut the inner C to the right length, bevel the outside of the end of the tube and the inner C where the tube goes into it, hammer it back on, carefully (i.e. whack it with a BFH) turn the inner C until the caster / pinion angle are set right (optionally cut the other inner C loose and do the same angle there too, if you want pinion angle perfect for your rig instead of having to compromise), then burn it on. Inner Cs are forged or cast steel, not cast iron, so you aren't going to cause any damage by welding it with a MIG welder iirc.
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this is exactly what i intend to do. i have a pretty built d30 waiting to go in, i will probably run it until i find a hp d44 to shorten. i've been looking everyday, but unfortunately it seems like people know what they have around here.
i figure i can sell my built d30 to pay for the entire d44 build, especialy since i already have an elocker for the d44. assuming i do all the work myself, which i am planning on.
 
Sucks. I picked my 78/79 F250 (HD) HP dana 44 up off a friend for $250... with a rear 60 and a pair of rollers included. And he knew exactly what he had. It's pretty damn rusty but I think it should be fine if I weld the shit out of it when I shorten it.
 
VAhasnoWAVES said:
redo the material as well... it wont last if you simply spray on some glue.
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agreed. joanne fabrics sells specific headliner material, it comes out pretty bitchin with a can of 3m spray adhiesive. probably better than new.
 
kastein said:
Sucks. I picked my 78/79 F250 (HD) HP dana 44 up off a friend for $250... with a rear 60 and a pair of rollers included. And he knew exactly what he had. It's pretty damn rusty but I think it should be fine if I weld the shit out of it when I shorten it.
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what sucks is i can get a d60 all day long for 300-500, but cant find a d44 AT ALL.
i'd go with the 60 but i dont really need it as i dont plan on going bigger than 33's, and a d60 selectable locker is a bit of money.
 
NW-ZJ-SCOTT said:
Ok so option number 4 came up, I priced out a TJ width dynatrac prorock44. This axle utilizes a custom high clearance Hp44 center with 5/16" DOM tubes extra beefy cast C's. And uses The stronger 8.8" JK d44 carrier and R&P setup.

Can get one from a sponsor on pirate ready to bolt in, 4.56/detroit with alloy shafts for around $3500

Hmm
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Is this reusing your knuckles and stub shafts?


The bummer about upgrading to the stronger ring and pinion and stronger 30 spline inner axles is that you still have the 27 spline stub shafts which are OK (barely) with 35's but won't hold up at all to 37's if you ever went to bigger tires. Of course, I don't the point of ever going to 37's on a full bodied XJ, but, if you're spending money to get a strong front axle it would be good to have stronger stub shafts. The option would be to switch to 5 on 5.5 wheel bolt pattern and a Yukon hub kit which comes with 30 spline stub axles. Or, find a way to redrill a JK Rubicon unit bearing (32 spline) to 5 on 4.5. Bummer that no one currently produces a TJ/XJ 30 spline unit bearing.
 
I thought Alloy USA and Yukon produce 30 spline unit bearings for xj's?

I went through the same decision back in november, eventually i found a former vendor that would basically build me a d30 with a HP44 center section. You can PM and ill give you the info. I wasn't willing to spend the money for a LP44 that was a d30 otherwise.

I ended up with a trussed, gusseted, 30spline 30 with cryo and heat treated gears for much less than i would have spent otherwise. If it doesn't hold up its worth most of its weight to someone else still.
 
Goatman said:
Is this reusing your knuckles and stub shafts?


The bummer about upgrading to the stronger ring and pinion and stronger 30 spline inner axles is that you still have the 27 spline stub shafts which are OK (barely) with 35's but won't hold up at all to 37's if you ever went to bigger tires. Of course, I don't the point of ever going to 37's on a full bodied XJ, but, if you're spending money to get a strong front axle it would be good to have stronger stub shafts. The option would be to switch to 5 on 5.5 wheel bolt pattern and a Yukon hub kit which comes with 30 spline stub axles. Or, find a way to redrill a JK Rubicon unit bearing (32 spline) to 5 on 4.5. Bummer that no one currently produces a TJ/XJ 30 spline unit bearing.
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Yes, tj width while retaining my WJ knuckle setup I just finished less then a year ago.

I don't plan on going bigger then 35s as I don't think it's needed on a unibodied street driven jeep.

I'm okay with having 27spline alloy stub shafts. If that's my weak link then it's a 15min trail fix. But I'm thinking selectable locker would likely cut down on the stresses of the shafts.

I've also considered calling dynatrac to price out a 35spline ARB installed in the PR44. But that's only useful if I could find 30sp unit bearings
 
i wonder if they just broach stock unit bearings? if i could get the stubs for cheap, i could technically do that myself.
 
NW-ZJ-SCOTT said:
AlloyUSA a Chinese brand now-a-days?
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I have been extremely unimpressed with their quality.

Goatman said:
:rolleyes:
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DSC_1088.jpg


DSC_1084.jpg


brand new axles. first trail.
 
So i found another option, I'm starting to drift off into LaLa Land with pricing vs budget, but i was a little shocked to find a RockJock 60 housing for less (technically) then the Dynatrac PR44

http://currieenterprises2.reachlocal.net/cestore/Products4x4.aspx?id=3427&p=3499.9500

I've thought about Calling Currie, Getting a price on JUST the housing and 35 spline inner shafts, I dont need the steering/trac bar setup.. I figure, If i could get the housing shipped to me for under $3k.. then a Carrier/full case locker, R&P and Setup kit are only another 700-1000..

I could use my Dana 30 outer stuff (LOL on a 60!) but it would be pretty stout for 35s, and i could upgrade the outer stuff later if i ever wanted to go bigger then 35s..

Hell, The most expensive part of a built RJ60 is just Getting the axle itself.. the outer stuff can be setup beyond Dana30 parts, Later on!

Thoughts?
 
May I suggest RCV axleshafts and top quality R&P? You already have a fortune invested in your 30 and the RCV's are all but unbreakable. With a properly heat (cryo?) treated R&P you should be good with 35's unless you are particularly heavy footed in the rough.
 
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