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what driveshaft to go with?

2qk4u

NAXJA Forum User
Location
florida
do you all think i should just but the RE driveshaft when i do my 4.5 lift and H&T or should i save my money and just get a fornt drive shaft and new u jounts? let me know your opinions. Im all about saving money.

thanks
 
I am going opposite of what your saying, but I got a DS with the 1310 NON greasable joint, it failed, had to replace with the same. 1st one lasted less than 6 months, so far so good at about the 9month mark with this one, but I try and avoid the deep mud if I can.

I would go with a DS with a 1350 joint, it will be money saved in the long run.
 
Pay now or later, its your call. I have heard some say they would never trust a H&T but in reality TW's set up (which is what I run) is essentially that. However you get something that has a warrenty on it. Especially the DS. I would go that route. You really can't go wrong for your money or with the customer service and it's one stop shopping. Just an opnion...not an endorsment.
 
......?

Just get an XJ front shaft. It'll fit perfectly for you. You will need to get the Spicer Adaptor flange for the CV side of the shaft to bolt up to the H+T flange. The part number is something like #299???7x. Search here or on Pirate for it. It's pretty common.
 
Don't get the RE driveshaft. http://www.yuccaman.com/jeep/re_sye.html (Hack-n-Tap is fine, but the driveshaft RE sells is too questionable for me to recommend it in the future)

If you want a hack-n-tap flange, get one but use the parts listed in http://www.4x4getaways.com/oldmansye.htm for the driveshaft.
(Note to old_man...I can't get to your site right now).

The PORC SYE is a great low-budget SYE that allows you the option of running a stock front driveshaft in the rear. You also get a much heavier mainshaft, so it's a great upgrade. http://www.yuccaman.com/jeep/porc_sye.html
 
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I went the H&T route and trust it's strength and reliability, but I wouldn't pass up a PORC kit at the price it sells for. Much shorter setup also.

Factor the CV flange into your cost if you go with the stock front shaft. You need this CV flange if you go with a stock front CV shaft, my understanding is the RE shaft already has it: www.rockforddriveline.com/Shopping/R2-21-1229.asp which has the greaseable cup.
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So has anyone had any luck with a RE Driveshaft? I have a Dana 35 rearend and 242 transfercase and i heard i cant use the front shaft witha dana 35 due to it being to short. Is this true?

how much is the porc drive shaft? can i use it with the RE H&T?
 
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PORC makes the SYE, not the driveshaft. I'm sure there are people who have had good luck with their RE driveshafts, but I'm certainly not one of them.

If you've got the 242 case, your SYE options are definitely more limited. Go to http://4xshaft.com/conversions.html and see what Tom Woods offers.
 
i just ordered a tom woods driveshaft for my front D30. the drive shaft is definately well built, they also used a larger spline stub on the shaft making it stronger then the stock unit. total was $269 shipped to my door, which is a pretty good price. their gold seal warranty on their u-joints is also pretty hard to beat. if you have the funds, i would go that route.
 
Why bump? What else are you looking for? Bumping is the best way to get put on a time-out or have your posts deleted.

If it's a 'bump' in reference to your question about the front shaft with your D35; you're going to have to get the right SYE first anyway or use a flange adapter on a stock driveshaft to fit the RE H+T style.
 
Tom Woods.

95k or so when at 6states built a cvrds for my re lift, totally neglected by me but stayed together, even rubber boot. Finally blew rear ujoint that was crying for help for like 5k. MY FAULT.

Just got in the mail some 4wd mag affiliated w/my naxja membership, checked out his 1/5 page ad. Planning to buy a b/u rear ds for trips to nh, cheaper than a new Yukon, though my cousin is a dealer... :gag:

In any event, TW end of story...

Mike
 
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