Transfer Case Sensors.

[Kingkong0192]

If anyone has seen my posts about this topic on other websites, i apologize. I just need to have my jeep back together by tomorrow afternoon and i'm starting to stress out as the t-case/trans is still supported by a floor jack.

I bought a SYED (hence why i posted in Modified tech and not OEM) NP242 out of a 93 XJ. (I have a 99 XJ.)

Long story short, i dropped my case, and bolted it in. I still have the trans/tcase supported by a floor jack so i still have full access to everything.

I just need to know how to deal with the sensors. The 93 has two sensors both located towards the rear shaft area. My (99) has two sensors as well except one is located directly above the paddle shifter and then one on the rear shaft area. The actual connects are different so i can't just reach the plug over and plug it in. I think they're both different.

Is there an easy way to fix this? If not, i'm going to just ziptie them up somewhere and bolt everything up and drive the thing. I need it for tomorrow. I can't hold it off any longer.

Thanks a million.

 

[Johnnie Walker]

Swap sensors from original t-case to current one. 4wd lights will most likely not work, possibly speedo if not conencted.
Will be able to drive and use 4wd if necessary.

 

[BADaXJ]

The rear most, on the ouput cone is the speedo sensor. The other one, somewhat near the front output I beleive, is the 4wd indicator switch. All it does is make the 4wd light come on in the dash. I'd be willing to bet you could thread it out and swap in your 99 switch. As for the speedo, not sure what the differences are between years, sorry. But I would look at swapping that also. Either way, you should be able to drive fine without them, and you can still access them when the tranny/ tcase is mounted.

 

[techno1154]

The rear most, on the ouput cone is the speedo sensor. The other one, somewhat near the front output I beleive, is the 4wd indicator switch. All it does is make the 4wd light come on in the dash. I'd be willing to bet you could thread it out and swap in your 99 switch. As for the speedo, not sure what the differences are between years, sorry. But I would look at swapping that also. Either way, you should be able to drive fine without them, and you can still access them when the tranny/ tcase is mounted.

If you have an AW4 transmission it may not work properly without the speedo. The TCM depends on it to determine the shift points. On my XJ with the wrong speedo drive to gear ratio to tire size the shift points are all screwed up, especially at speeds on city streets.

 

[Kingkong0192]

So just unscrew the sensors from the 99 and unscrew the sensors off the 93 and screw them into the 93 and then plug the wires in?

 

[Johnnie Walker]

Should be plug n pray.

 

[Kingkong0192]

Alright thanks. Seemed too easy for them to just unscrew and work like that. They should work even though they're in different locations on the case?

I'm hoping I don't have to do any praying.

 

[kastein]

The AW4 doesn't care about the VSS at all. In fact the signal from it isn't even sent to the TCU. Swap it though, since the connector may be different on the two years and the gear tooth count from your old one probably is preferable if they're different (unless you've changed gearing or tire size and haven't fixed it) - make sure to properly index the VSS to avoid speedo gear damage.

I don't know that the switch for the transfer case lights will swap over, since it's different from the 231 one, but all that will happen if you don't swap it or plug the cable for it in is the dash lights for fulltime and part time won't work. Big deal, you can figure that out later.

 

[Kingkong0192]

Thank you.

Both sensors switched over perfectly. Haven't hooked my front driveshaft and T-case linkage back up yet as i'm crammed for time here, but they both screwed in correctly.

What do you mean by "index the VSS to avoid speedo gear damage". I drove about 25 miles with it how it is. Think i damaged it?

No 4x4 lights are on and i'm in 2wd. I'll post back when i do get it figured out for future references.

I had a bad grinding noise when i was taking off and coming to a stop and on turns before. I just had time to pull my front tire and brakes off and found this. Any ideas on what this is?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0akptaOp1i4

 

[kastein]

Your wheel bearing there is horribly screwed and needs replacement before you drive it more.

Make sure you tighten the axle nut to 175 foot pounds after installing it.

Indexing the VSS - the VSS part (the one that plugs into the tailcone with the drive gear in it and has a 1/2" or 13mm bolt holding it down with a fork shaped clip) needs to be rotated so that the proper marking is pointing downward for your speedo gear tooth count. Most stock gears will be 34/35/36 tooth (iirc), but it should be molded into the gear - here's a writeup: http://www.4x4xplor.com/speedo.html

If your speedo still worked when you stopped driving it, the gear is probably fine, or at least salvageable.

 

[Kingkong0192]

Actually kind of relieved that's all you think it is. I thought for sure something inside the diff was shot with all that noise and play in the thing. I'd assume i should do the wheel bearings in pairs, correct?

Luckily for me what i had to do got postponed until tomorrow. I think i'll have enough time to get the wheel bearings done if i get up at the crack of dawn. You think the axle shaft u-joint is shot as well? I'd personally like to replace the Wheel bearing/U-joint/ball joints all at the same time but i'm on a time crunch and physically don't have enough time.

Will do. Do you happen to know what size that nut is? I think i'm going to have to buy that socket as well.

I didn't even notice there were markings on it. I'll go fix that now to avoid future problems. Thanks for the heads up as i would of never known.

 

[Johnnie Walker]

Actually kind of relieved that's all you think it is. I thought for sure something inside the diff was shot with all that noise and play in the thing. I'd assume i should do the wheel bearings in pairs, correct?

Will do. Do you happen to know what size that nut is? I think i'm going to have to buy that socket as well.

I didn't even notice there were markings on it. I'll go fix that now to avoid future problems. Thanks for the heads up as i would of never known.

Uni-bearing nut is a 36mm.

 

[kastein]

Yep. You can do bearings one at a time, I've only replaced them simultaneously once. If the ujoints are shot, do em at the same time (order real Spicers online, don't buy crap parts store ujoints, they break easy and won't last) but if you can't wait, you can always do em later.

Since you have a 99, which is a split year for wheel bearings and rotors, make sure you get the appropriate bearings. Looking at your video, you have the 99.5-up style bearing, so just to make sure you get the right one, order front unit bearings for a 2000 XJ. You can tell the difference by the height of the "ring" around the axle nut, yours is the taller later style ring while the 99.0 and earlier unit bearing has a shorter ring. That's not the only difference, it's just the most obvious external visual indication without taking a tape measure to it.

Make sure both sides have the same style bearing, I've seen some jeeps where someone had replaced one bearing and one rotor so one side used the old style and the other side used the new style. Pretty screwy if you ask me, it works fine but it's anything but cool when you go to order parts.

 

[Kingkong0192]

I can't really tell if my driver side bearing is shot over the roar of my passenger side bearing. Any easy way to tell if my U-joint is shot with my jeep sitting as it is?

I think i'm going to just replace the passenger side wheel bearing tomorrow and then order parts online to do it all right with good quality parts. The only wheel bearing in stock at my local parts store is this Driveworks one. It has pretty good reviews, but either way, i don't really have a choice right now. (http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/we...0-p?navigationPath=L1*14925|L2*15056|L3*16414)

That link above is the link for a 2000 XJ wheel bearing. Does that look correct to you? The 1999 one is a different price and looks different.

Going to check that out now.

 

[Johnnie Walker]

Overall, they look the same. If that is for a 2k, then the lip should be the same as yours. Compare them when you receive it. Remember, most sites use "stock" photos, meaning that they can vary from what they actually look like.
I have some cheapo unit bearings from ebay and they are holding up pretty well. I think I got the pair for less than 50$

 

[kastein]

Looks like the right one to me.

The U-joints you want are 5-760X made by Spicer, you can get them for a reasonable price from northerndrivetrain.com or alljeep.com. I usually go with northern drivetrain these days.

It's usually easy to tell a badly shot ujoint - with the weight on the wheels, grab the inner axleshaft and try and wiggle it up and down and forward and back. If there is any real noticeable play in any direction, it's worn out.

Here's a good example of a very badly worn U-joint:

 

[Kingkong0192]

Will get that on tomorrow. Thanks a million for the replies.

Bookmarked both of those pages with the correct U-Joint as the bookmark title.

Put my tire back on with two lug nuts and put some weight on it. Both U-joints are incredibly tight. No play at all. My wallets happy.

Anything else you'd recommend when i have some time to buy the correct/quality parts?

 

[Kingkong0192]

Got the wheel bearing out. My god that thing was shot so bad i couldn't believe it when i saw it. Literally 3 or more ball bearings were totally gone, and the rest of them had chunks missing from them. Jeep sounds a hell of a lot better again. Thanks again for the help.