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SYE + Driveshaft...under $100.00 (not 56k friendly)

ECKSJAY said:
$100 is going to turn to a lot more when the t-case gets replaced and he realizes he should have done it right to begin with.

:twak:
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Prolly about the same time he gets a good axle hop and snaps the shaft clean off eh?? 2 burgers and your full??? You are really letting me down :laugh:
 
Great Idea & Nice Job.
But get the crappy threaded rod out of there ASAP before it fails, Use only all grade 8 Hardware including the washers. Next time you would be better off using a National Fine threaded bolt (Instead of NC threads), NF stuff engages better.
Also I would not trust the washer in there, I would weld it in to be on the safe side (Remember the H&T Has a ridge machined in for the washer).
 
Good job Dave. You don't have to listen to all these wet behind the ear computer nerds that only know what they seen someone else type.
 
Good job Dave...and you should listen to all constructive criticism that may make your DIY project stronger and more trouble-free. Using the proper hardware rated for stresses found in off road endeavors is the smart path. The best use of this forum is to get useful, informative feedback...not just platitudes for good photos and complete sentences. I applaud your efforts and support any constructive criticism that may make it that much better.
 
garr said:
Great Idea & Nice Job.
But get the crappy threaded rod out of there ASAP before it fails, Use only all grade 8 Hardware including the washers. Next time you would be better off using a National Fine threaded bolt (Instead of NC threads), NF stuff engages better.
Also I would not trust the washer in there, I would weld it in to be on the safe side (Remember the H&T Has a ridge machined in for the washer).
Click to expand...

There is a ridge for the washer. In the second picture with the washer in place, it isn't just magically floating there. The washer presses on that edge, and the back edge presses against the raised part of the output shaft nearer the transfer case. For everyone bashing it so hard, tell me what the biggest difference between this and a hack and tap is. Not being an ass, I'd just really like to know what makes it so superior. The biggest difference I can see is that I went with a larger size, 1/2" vs 3/8", and used a stud and nut instead of a 1" bolt.
 
I agree that this solution to a hack n tap works just as good as the rest of them. The yoke sits on the shaft just like all the rest. If your worried about the all thread..then dont use it. Get yourself a 1" bolt just like the RE kit. If you feel better about it, weld the washer in place. Even though the bolt tightens it againts that ridge, it shouldn't move anyway. In the end, I really dont see how this would fail. If it fits the splines perfectly how will it wobble off?
 
Dave41079 said:
There is a ridge for the washer. In the second picture with the washer in place, it isn't just magically floating there. The washer presses on that edge, and the back edge presses against the raised part of the output shaft nearer the transfer case. For everyone bashing it so hard, tell me what the biggest difference between this and a hack and tap is. Not being an ass, I'd just really like to know what makes it so superior. The biggest difference I can see is that I went with a larger size, 1/2" vs 3/8", and used a stud and nut instead of a 1" bolt.
Click to expand...

The RE Hack N Tap is a billet machined piece with a hole in it for the attaching bolt.
The fact that it is one piece, instead of a low grade washer sitting in a recess is that the washer could pull through the yoke under stress increased it dependability.

Star washers are used when you want a good electrical grip. You will almost never see them used on suspensions or drivelines.

Weld a thick grade 8 washer to the yoke in place of the low grade number you have there now, upgrade the grade of the attaching hardware, and you should be good to go.

For those deriding the design for the length of engaged spline area, the RE set up is not that different.

I still want to know what the yoke came off. I realize you said it came of the shelf, but that info is not all that useful. As I stated, GM used that transmission in thousands of installations. I don't know GM products that well, and would like to know what to look for in the junk yard.
 
Zuki-Ron said:
The RE Hack N Tap is a billet machined piece with a hole in it for the attaching bolt.
The fact that it is one piece, instead of a low grade washer sitting in a recess is that the washer could pull through the yoke under stress increased it dependability.
Click to expand...
Not true at all. Apparenlty you have not held the H&T in your hands. It has the same "cheap" washer in the center only retained by a clip untill it is bolted into place.

shipmentoffail.jpg
 
This is an excellent idea and I don't see a reason at all why it would fail any more quickly to a RE hack and tap, its basically the same exact thing with a different yoke! Don't listen to these nay-sayers, theres always going to be somebody who swears they have a better idea than you, and your idea sucks. The only thing I would change is the hardware to grade 8 for cheap insurance. Good Job!

Subscribed
 
Zuki-Ron said:
I still want to know what the yoke came off. I realize you said it came of the shelf, but that info is not all that useful. As I stated, GM used that transmission in thousands of installations. I don't know GM products that well, and would like to know what to look for in the junk yard.
Click to expand...

I'm not sure exactly what vehicles, but perhaps you could try a driveline shop and see what vehicles it fits. Or check under some cars at the junkyard. I realize it is a very common transmission, I just don't know what would have used a CV yoke instead of a slip joint. I was calling around trying to order a new 3103-27CV and one of the places I called just happened to have a used one sitting on the shelf for cheap. If anyone happens to find out what it fits, please post up. I'll do a little searching myself and see what I can find.
 
Dave,

Good write up on the conversion. I think I have one of those yokes. If it's the same, I'll post up what I got it out of.

Dave, I've seen your Jeep and it's well built so don't let people drag you down.
 
PornstaR said:
Looks good but like above stated the "harware" is nill. Also what year of rig and what TC? I see your cut on your yoke wasnt really all that straight and wouldnt have been stronger if you would have let the yoke go "all" the way down the output shaft?
Click to expand...


It doesn't have to be perfect. It has splines it still gonna go on straight. I am not saying i would do this but its a good attempt. Lets see how long it takes before he has problems if he even has them at all.
 
these yokes are supposedly from mid to late 70s pickups & vans with c/v driveshafts, but I haven't been able to verify that or even locate one, but I'm on the hunt. I've had a couple of people tell me there's no such animal but we've all seen the pictures. I have seen this covered on a couple of previous thread but no one has been able to clearly i.d. this yoke. If I can find some specific info on this I'll post it. it's the perfect answer for my 242.
 
PornstaR said:
uh try searching for spicer lists of yokes. Dont have the info any more but there were quite a bit of rigs they came off of. 80s T birds and such. Do a SEARCH on here and look through GoJeeps page im sure the specs of seal diameter, spline count and diameter will be there.
Click to expand...

I did a SEARCH and it yielded the same results; The GoJeep P/N.

Besides, the P/N for the GoJeep part number is in the original post. Since the original poster implied that there was an alternative to this, I figured he could find more info; hey, it's his "Writeup". If he is unable to do so, a nice Saturday walk through the local salvage yard should yeild some results.

I have something you can SEARCH for :D
 
I like it, I am in the process of making a similar yoke out of a pinion yoke and a slip yoke.
 
PornstaR said:
uh try searching for spicer lists of yokes. Dont have the info any more but there were quite a bit of rigs they came off of. 80s T birds and such. Do a SEARCH on here and look through GoJeeps page im sure the specs of seal diameter, spline count and diameter will be there.
Click to expand...

You're confusing two different parts. The companion flange from the Fords is what you bolt to the RE hack n tap in order to connect it to a 1310 u-joint. The yoke like what I used is made for the Jeep 231 transfer case, but is the same as a TH350 in spline count, seal diameters, etc. We obviously know they exist, because I have one. I've searched for a while trying to find out what vehicles they came on, and have had no luck. I may call my driveshaft guy and see if he knows, or go by the junkyard this weekend and see what I can find.
 
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