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SYE + Driveshaft...under $100.00 (not 56k friendly)

Dave41079 said:
You're absolutely right, it is all low grade. I did that for two reasons. It will stretch before it will shear unlike harder metals, and it's only purpose is to keep the yoke snug against the output shaft. It does nothing else. Show me some form of a lock washer that works better than a star washer also. Split washers lose their temper/spring over time and loosen up. If someone wants to do this, they can use any hardware they feel comfortable with.


maybe try these: http://www.solonmfg.com/article.cfm?id=36
 
New here so first of all, Hello. Well I had to chime in on this subject cause I've done that already but went about it a little different. This yoke 3103-27CV can be had for about $80 thru Powertrain Industries. On my 93 I turned a plug, on my lathe, to fit the depth I wanted the yoke to ride on the spline. Then welded the plug to the yoke instead of just having a thin washer holding it in place.

I then cut about 3/8 off the shaft to get past the hardend end to drill & tap to 7/16nf, (OVERKILL IT FOR OFFROAD).

So now you going to put a wimpy front shaft in your rig.....NOPE, NOT ME!!!

While your jerk'in spare parts out of the junk yard get ya a front shaft out of a 90-92 FORD explorer or maybe even a p/u to bolt right in, did I say bolt right in!!!

Now don't be afraid of it cause its gonna look BIGGER, She said BIGGER IS BETTER!

Forgot to say this mod is for LIFTED Cherokee's, but may work smaller ones too.

For you 96 & up guys, the way I did Daves mod, is to use the same yoke & the same DS and just bolted it in. Yes ours slips on both the splines, but the shaft is just a little longer & works perfectly for a 4.5 lift. Theres know way the shaft can come out. This has been tested offroad at full droop & at 70mph.

Sorry Dave if this is called HIJACKING a thread, I'm just stating the way I done your mod, thanks for everyone's time & ideas. JEFF
 
Hello,

Sorry to resurrect an old thread. But after finding this thread I have a question.
deutschland_3.gif


Instead of the Corvette Yoke, could I use this one: http://www.omix-ada.com/productInfo.asp?itemNo=245341

It says it's for a 231 Output shaft. The 242 and 231 have the same output shaft...right?

Thanks
 
Is there a reason you couldn't use a stock yoke? I have one floating around... this would be a super cheap (almost free!) SYE!
 
mind explaining to me why? I still just don't quite get it...

I was about to ask if this would work with the 231, but I found that out via the thread linked in the OP.
 
While they do make DC driveshafts with slip yokes(non-sye),the factory yoke doesnt have the 1/2 centering ball assembly!
doublecardan.jpg
 
Is there a reason you couldn't use a stock yoke? I have one floating around... this would be a super cheap (almost free!) SYE!

Not at all, you just need a single cardan shaft with a slip joint.

The really annoying part is assembling that front u-joint when the yoke is attached to the transfercase.
 
Not at all, you just need a single cardan shaft with a slip joint.

AKA a front shaft?
would doing this, leaving it as long as possible, allow me to use an XJ front shaft with my AX-15, NP-231 combo? or would I have to get something else? anyone know?
 
AKA a front shaft?
would doing this, leaving it as long as possible, allow me to use an XJ front shaft with my AX-15, NP-231 combo? or would I have to get something else? anyone know?

The front XJ drive shaft has a double cardan (CV) assembly at one end. You would need to remove that so that you end up with a single u-joint at each end. As far as length, you would need to measure that out.

The question is *Why* are you looking to do a SYE?
If you are trying to prevent the relatively short stock yoke from slipping out and dropping your drive shaft on the trail, that will work. It's not real elegant, but it will work.

If however, you are attempting to rid your lift of vibrations, that will "cure" nothing.
To rid your lift of vibrations, you only need to measure the DS angles, and correct them.
 
So any thoughts on the Yoke I found?

Or should I be the guinea pig? :D

By the way, all the questions about using the original slip yoke and fixing it to the shaft. I looked into this option too.

A)I don't know of any way to attach that yoke to a CV joint, doesn't mean it's not possible. I would think you would have to attach the yoke first, then somehow press that u-joint in place. Seems like a hassle but I don't know, it might be possible with enough determination.

B) It's very much permanent this way.

With the yoke I listed, technically speaking (and assuming it will really work), if I got crazy and snapped my rear driveshaft I would still have a spare on the front I could use to limp back to civilization. All I would need is a properly sized socket set to swap them out.
 
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So any thoughts on the Yoke I found?

Or should I be the guinea pig? :D

It looks to be a "replacement" yoke for a SYE kit,dont see anything else and the SYE kit yokes will not fit a std output shaft.
 
245341.jpg


http://www.omix-ada.com/productInfo.asp?itemNo=245341

Looks like that yoke should work. It has the flat area behind the holes that allows you to run the bolts through from that side which the stock yoke will not. Being this is for a SYE replacement, it should also have the correct bolt patten to suit the double cardon joint as well.
Let me know how it goes and I will add it to my write up.

To answer a few other questions there, you must shorten the output shaft as much as possible for too reasons. One it the longer you make the driveshaft, the smaller the angles become that the unis have to run at.
Secondly, the double cardon joint is quite heavy and needs to be as close as possible to the bearing to support that weight. Long term it is the only way this setup lasts.

You can also only use a stock front shaft from a AUTO if you have a AUTO AND either a D44 rear axle or a 8.25. A D35 has a shorter pinion length so makes the stock front driveshaft too short and a manual trans for the same reasons. Some ZJ front shafts are longer so look into that if you have a manual or a D35.
 
Hello,

Sorry to resurrect an old thread. But after finding this thread I have a question.
deutschland_3.gif


Instead of the Corvette Yoke, could I use this one: http://www.omix-ada.com/productInfo.asp?itemNo=245341

It says it's for a 231 Output shaft. The 242 and 231 have the same output shaft...right?

Thanks

I thought that their kit replaced the output shaft and used a 32 spline shaft like may kits do, meaning that the yoke in the link is 32 spline. Anybody know for sure the spline count of this yoke for sure?
 
I have a question about driveshafts. I have a 92 with a 5-speed and I'm going to be putting a ford 8.8 in it unless by some miracle I can find an xj dana 44. My question is how much shorter is the 5-speed and therefore how could I possibly make a stock front driveshaft work in the back? If the difference is not huge could I not trim the stock output shaft or trim less to gain the extra length?

Might be a totally rediculous idea but as my name states, I'm on a budget.
 
I thought that their kit replaced the output shaft and used a 32 spline shaft like may kits do, meaning that the yoke in the link is 32 spline. Anybody know for sure the spline count of this yoke for sure?

I have an E-mail in to Tellico now, so we'll see. :D
 
I thought that their kit replaced the output shaft and used a 32 spline shaft like may kits do, meaning that the yoke in the link is 32 spline. Anybody know for sure the spline count of this yoke for sure?


You are correct. It is a 32 Spline Yoke. :(

Good greif, if they made a 27 Spline shaft like this I think people, at least in these forums, would snatch them up quick! But, that would mean less sales for their kits. Yet, they don't make a 242 kit, so I'm still stuck. LOL :D
 
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