andyr354
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- North Central KS
XJWheelie said:
Big rocks put nice big dents in the body rails. I have looked at some rails that were really bad. If you are not a real hardcore wheeler you probably wont have a prob though.
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Sleeving the frame rails
- Thread starter xj92
- Start date
Big rocks put nice big dents in the body rails. I have looked at some rails that were really bad. If you are not a real hardcore wheeler you probably wont have a prob though.
XJWheelie
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Murfreesboro, TN
That makes sense. I might want to consider that then since I'm always slamming my rock rails and skid plates on whatever I managed to get on top of.
Robert
Robert
ashmanjeepxj
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Vail AZ, Jimmy's Cherokee Buggy
JCSXJ said:
In addition to rock protection, I feal it is a necesity to have a soild frame to build off of for good: cage, susupension, Drive train, steering, and any thing else that would mount to the frame..
My axles and tires weigh ALOT more then then the "fame" is designed for, My steering with a front spool, 38s and a ram has alot more force on the "fame" then it was designed for, and my cage needs to tie into something of equivalent stregth so it dosent just rip off. I removed most of my body so I also wanted frame supports (though the body didnt twist much with the roof cut off)
"33s and 4.5" of lift is this something that I should think about doing?"
I wouldent worry about it, even a stock cherokee could fall on a rock and dent the frame....but I wouldent recommend all this work for that small of rig.
IMO.
Incredible Hulk
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Burnsville, Minnesota
To bring this back to the top, is just putting angle on the outside enough? Will it be substantially stronger to box it in? Or will angle give it enough rigidity on its own? Bcause I can certainly see it being easier to do with angle alone.
So, is it worth it to box it all the way in? Or is angle good enough?
So, is it worth it to box it all the way in? Or is angle good enough?
Incredible Hulk
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Burnsville, Minnesota
^top^ Still curious of the benefits of going full box in or just angle. Anyone?
dennisuello
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Reno, Nevada
Incredible Hulk said:
full box would be stronger, but angle will protect the "frame" pretty well too. i am doing a combination with channel from rear spring hanger to about t-case crossmember and angle fromt crossmember forward.
xj92
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Junction City, KS
That's pretty much the same combo I'm doing. Some parts of the rails it's just not feasible to run channel, but where it is I wanted to for the added strength and rigidity. On another note, I hate my welder now. 
I get some really good welds for the first half-hour or hour, then it's too hot and just overheats in less than 20 seconds of welding......so my project is stretching out longer and longer just because my welder sucks.
I get some really good welds for the first half-hour or hour, then it's too hot and just overheats in less than 20 seconds of welding......so my project is stretching out longer and longer just because my welder sucks.andyr354
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- North Central KS
What welder ya got? FWIW I realy like my Hobart Handler 175. Using .35 solid wire and Linweld Moongone gas.
Got a Lincoln 100amp fluxcore welder that I don't really use anymore but it worked well to. Along with the 220amp Lincoln buzbox, 180amp Miller gas powered buzbox.... we got lots of welders!
On the use of angle iron, same here. You only need about 30 inches of area to use channel and angle on the rest. I think using all angle would be fine, much stronger than stock whatever way ya go.
Got a Lincoln 100amp fluxcore welder that I don't really use anymore but it worked well to. Along with the 220amp Lincoln buzbox, 180amp Miller gas powered buzbox.... we got lots of welders!
On the use of angle iron, same here. You only need about 30 inches of area to use channel and angle on the rest. I think using all angle would be fine, much stronger than stock whatever way ya go.
xj92
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Junction City, KS
Harbor Freight 90-amp
I've pretty much made up my mind to get the Miller 175, but that'll be down the road cause cash is tight (and I really want the Pro Tools 105HD bender first too).
I've pretty much made up my mind to get the Miller 175, but that'll be down the road cause cash is tight (and I really want the Pro Tools 105HD bender first too).
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andyr354
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- North Central KS
xj92 said:
I was droolong over one a while back.... oh the things I could build... If I could afford the expensive DOM tubing! Its always something......
One I get my full width conversion done and save up some more cash I will probably get one. Might see if a couple of racecar budies of mine wanna go in on one together.
xj92
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Junction City, KS
I added 4 pics of it finished. http://community.webshots.com/user/xj92 Nothing earth-shattering, but if you want to see some quick shots of the finished product here you go. On a side note, I haven't noticed any increase or decrease in stiffness compared to the T&J Stiffener that was on there before, but it will be a better foundation to build all future projects off of.
xj92
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Junction City, KS
If anybody's interested in a used T&J stiffener, check out the post in the for sale section.
burntkat
NAXJA Member #1145
- Location
- Charleston, SC
xj92 said:
quit playing with toy drills and get a Milwaukee Hole Shooter. Guarantee you won't smoke it- it'll smoke YOU!
xj92
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Junction City, KS
I did get a Milwaukee, about a month ago now. And you're right, it is great! I got the new one with the 8-amp motor and the keyless chuck.
For those of you who have sleeved the entire rails, I'm going to be starting on that soon. Up until now I've only done between the LCA mounts and the forward leaf-spring eye. I want to use 1/8" angle for the rest of it to save on some weight and time and make it easier on my welder as well. The largest angle I can find in 1/8" is 2"x2". What did you guys use to do yours all the way to the rear bumper for example? Cut and weld plate? Use 2"x2" and cut plate to fill in the gaps? Just go to 3/16" (the largest they have then is 3"x3") and use that? I noticed somebody earlier in the thread used the 3/16" angle, but has anybody done it using 1/8"? I seem to remember Ashman using 1/8" but I'm not sure if he used angle or plate or what combination. TIA.
For those of you who have sleeved the entire rails, I'm going to be starting on that soon. Up until now I've only done between the LCA mounts and the forward leaf-spring eye. I want to use 1/8" angle for the rest of it to save on some weight and time and make it easier on my welder as well. The largest angle I can find in 1/8" is 2"x2". What did you guys use to do yours all the way to the rear bumper for example? Cut and weld plate? Use 2"x2" and cut plate to fill in the gaps? Just go to 3/16" (the largest they have then is 3"x3") and use that? I noticed somebody earlier in the thread used the 3/16" angle, but has anybody done it using 1/8"? I seem to remember Ashman using 1/8" but I'm not sure if he used angle or plate or what combination. TIA.
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fatwreck
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- ottawa, il
I just sleeved my frame rails from the cross member back.....
writeup here:
http://www.projectxj.com/mods/frame.bracing.htm
pics:
writeup here:
http://www.projectxj.com/mods/frame.bracing.htm
pics:
burntkat
NAXJA Member #1145
- Location
- Charleston, SC
so if I understand you folks who're doing full sleeves, at the areas where the frame widens, you just cut the c channel in half and then scab the middle of them two with plate where they don't meet up after you weld the two halves on?
Think I'll go with the c channel from LCA to spring hanger, and the angle in the other areas, with plate bridging the gap as needed between the angle.
What do you do about water intrusion, since one assumes you are not doing full seam welds? Water is going to get in-- how're you letting it out- just drilling a hole at the bottom and hoping for the best?
Think I'll go with the c channel from LCA to spring hanger, and the angle in the other areas, with plate bridging the gap as needed between the angle.
What do you do about water intrusion, since one assumes you are not doing full seam welds? Water is going to get in-- how're you letting it out- just drilling a hole at the bottom and hoping for the best?
xj92
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Junction City, KS
I drilled holes along the bottom in the same locations as on the stock frame rails. Other than that I'm just going to see what happens.
gearwhine
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Denver, CO
figured I would just add to this post. I just finished my sleeve job.....
I also used 4x6 1/4 wall. I tried to find something less thick for weight reasons, but all I could find was 4" x 1/8" wall. It would've worked out pretty nicely, but I wanted it tight up against the frame as I plan on mounting all kids of neat stuff on it. So I followed the crowd. It's expensive shit, but you only need 5' of it rather than 10, so it will be cheaper than most I think, I paid 11/ft plus a cut fee. ~65 all together just for your information. I might have gotten it cheap, I might have paid too much, who really cares, that's just what I paid so you can base your prices off of it.
I just used two straight cut pieces, rather than 3 pieces like most. That little bend in the frame right behind the crossmember is not worth the effort of cutting and welding more.
The part that I figured I would post about is at the pinch seam in front of the crossmember. I cut it off completely, and welded it back up. It gradually gets wider from in front of the crossmember to the control arm bracket. so without the pinch seam, I just slit the piece of tubing down partially, not all the way off, leaving it as one piece. then I c-clamped it all on tightly, cut a sliver and welded it in place, then welded the whole thing on.
While I was at it, I welded up all the frame rail seams before I put the metal on. that's about it...figured I would add more info for others. _nicko_
here are some pics.
You can see the extra welded in piece there a little. I was too lazy to make it all smooth and junk, didn't think it was that important.
I also used 4x6 1/4 wall. I tried to find something less thick for weight reasons, but all I could find was 4" x 1/8" wall. It would've worked out pretty nicely, but I wanted it tight up against the frame as I plan on mounting all kids of neat stuff on it. So I followed the crowd. It's expensive shit, but you only need 5' of it rather than 10, so it will be cheaper than most I think, I paid 11/ft plus a cut fee. ~65 all together just for your information. I might have gotten it cheap, I might have paid too much, who really cares, that's just what I paid so you can base your prices off of it.
I just used two straight cut pieces, rather than 3 pieces like most. That little bend in the frame right behind the crossmember is not worth the effort of cutting and welding more.
The part that I figured I would post about is at the pinch seam in front of the crossmember. I cut it off completely, and welded it back up. It gradually gets wider from in front of the crossmember to the control arm bracket. so without the pinch seam, I just slit the piece of tubing down partially, not all the way off, leaving it as one piece. then I c-clamped it all on tightly, cut a sliver and welded it in place, then welded the whole thing on.
While I was at it, I welded up all the frame rail seams before I put the metal on. that's about it...figured I would add more info for others. _nicko_
here are some pics.
You can see the extra welded in piece there a little. I was too lazy to make it all smooth and junk, didn't think it was that important.
Incredible Hulk
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Burnsville, Minnesota
Looks good, have a couple of questions. I cant really tell from your pics- Where is the piece you slivered in? Can you highlight it for me? I want to box all the way up to the LCA mount as well so I am curious how you did it. Also, what is that "redish" piece on there in teh second pic? Is that part of your crossmember?
You said you cut your 5' section into two pieces for both sides then, but you said you didnt do it to account for the drop in the frame rail? You only did it to be able to modify the front section for in front of the crossmember then? Am I understanding that correctly? Thanks for the clarification.
josh
You said you cut your 5' section into two pieces for both sides then, but you said you didnt do it to account for the drop in the frame rail? You only did it to be able to modify the front section for in front of the crossmember then? Am I understanding that correctly? Thanks for the clarification.
josh
gearwhine
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Denver, CO
Incredible Hulk said:
the piece I slivered in is in the first picture. You can't really see the sliver, but you can see the holes from the weld, and then a grind down. I didn't fill the small holes in after grinding it down. I can't really get a better picture than that, as I rarely take pictures of my work in progress.
redish piece is a rusty piece that I'm welding to my crossmember to have it bolt through the side of the frame, it was just with stock bolts before.
There are two angle changes in the frame rail. and they are about 6-8" apart right behind the crossmember. If you look in the naxja tech articles, you will see how jeepfreak did it...with 3 pieces. Once you look, you'll see it. _nicko_
