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Replacing the 00+ coil rail with aftermarket coils

Old Thread, but just an opinion to add:
When chasing a misfire in my Jeep (that is still not fixed), I have been forced to pull the coil rail several times.

With experience the rail can be pulled and replaced in a matter of minutes.

*Pop all three throttle cables loose.
*Disconnect throttle cable bracket from intake manifold.
*Disconnect throttle cables from valve cover.
*Pull all four rail bolts.
*Pull rail off of plugs and pull first boot up over the radiator hose.
*Disconnect harness.
*Pull heater hoses up with one hand and pull rail towards front of Jeep with the other while twisting the rail (boots towards passenger wheel).
*Comes right out.

I can remove the rail, start to finish, in less than 10 minutes.
Same for putting back on.

Just putting that out there.
 
No way it takes 10 minutes if you've done it a few times. The only "difficult" part is disconnecting the harness blindly underneath. Once you've done that a few times that takes seconds.
 
10 minutes is still too long, its still a pain, and a poor design. The throttle cables don't have to be moved.

Agreed... and you can't replace just 1 coil if it's defective... Like you can replace 1 plug wire, 1 coil on plug, etc...

I think it's a pain in the rear to remove as my hands are large enough that trying to disconnect (blindly) the coil pack wiring is nearly impossible for me. The couple times I've changed my plugs I've thought I was going to snap a wire or two when moving the coil pack around. :|
 
I own a couple of 2000 Jeep Cherokees and always hated the Coil Rail and considered doing this swap, just recently I purchased a 2000 XJ with a blown motor with all the engine parts in the back of the Jeep and once I was done installing the 98 XJ Motor I found the Coil Pack I had was bad.

I was going to order a Viper Coil pack but my buddy had a factory Chrysler (non viper) coil pack in his tool box new and gave it to me, LONG STORY SHORT is it worked - it had the following number stamped in the back 56032520AB, I plugged it directly in to the stock wiring loom after shaving off the coil the two bumps on the plug area (so it would plug in) - looking at the top with the plug to the right

4 & 3 top
2 & 5 middle
1 & 6 bottom

The part number cross references to;

CHRYSLER # 56032520AB, 56032520AC
STANDARD # UF305
BORG WARNER # E887
AIRTEX # 5C1432
WELLS # C1442

I used the stock wires from a 01 Dodge Caravan that I got from the junkyard (spend $7 on) just to see if everything would work before investing major money on new wires and coil, I still need to mount the coil which will require extending the wiring harness plug - and make sure the Caravan wires will work with the mounting point I decide on (I will post a picture when I am done), but thought I would pass on that despite other folks problems the Airteck 5C1432 will run the motor.... although I have not driven it yet down the road.
 
.......................

4 & 3 top
2 & 5 middle
1 & 6 bottom

.......................

I've got all my parts and will put together a list of stuff to add to this thread... however as I was looking at Talyn's pics and then looking at what you posted...

Shouldn't the firing order of the 'Viper' coil be

Top (assuming harness connection on right)
3 - 4
2 - 5
1 - 6
Bottom

I don't want to cross-fire my plugs or my computer. :)

Thanks
 
Talyn and everyone else who posted here... THANKS for the info and help. I completed the swap on my '01 XJ today. Everything went smoothly. I compiled a list of parts and pics as we all know how helpful pics and more part info is.

With the help of Talyn I ordered an Airtech connection device and a Viper coil through RockAtuo. This device has to be cut, flipped 180 degrees and soldered together. Just to make sure you have a 'straight-through' wiring connection. Pretty easy if you look at it.

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=5237220&cc=1431779









and the Coil f/an '02 Dodge Viper.



I also ordered several parts f/ Jegs... some Taylor 8mm V8 Universal Fit wires, Wire Connectors and a fuel pressure gauge (for something else)





I went by my local Hardware store and picked up 1 sheet of flat stock SS 12" x 18" (not sure how thick, but not very thick... just thick enough to stay rigid and hold the new Coil.

Picked up:

4 - 1/4" x 2" bolts and 1/2 x 20 nuts (to mount the new Coil)



I already had one 1" 1/4" bolt and nut f/past jobs to secure the base of the Coil Mount. There is a hold near the motor mount that this went through.

I used the 2 bolts that hold the Coolant Overflow to secure the top part of the Coil Mount.
I removed the overflow bottle to give more room. I also use some cardboard to mock-up a template and transferred that over to the SS flat stock and cut it w/my air saw. Slowly and methodically I got the mount to work.



Then mounted the new Viper Ignition Coil



Plugged in the modified Connector to the OE plug and the new Coil



Then I started cutting/fitting the plug wires to fit my application. Taylor makes a great plug wire and these are easy to customize.







After checking to make sure I didn't leave anything disconnected, no tools left under the hood and checking again. I fired her up and she started like a top!! I turned off the garage lights and couldn't see any ignition fouling under-hood and there was zero miss! I took it for a driver around the block, down the road, full-throttle runs and just driving down the road. She idles smooth as glass and runs great! So far so good. Obviously time will tell, but I'm quite pleased. I love the look and it's MUCH easier to get to the plugs now.

I'd have to add up all the $$ spent, but I'm quite happy and consider it money well spent. I have 3 extra plug wires that were left over if I ever need to replace one. All in all a great Saturday project.
 
Redsnake, Great job!
Do you have a final length on the plug wires you made?

Thanks and I'm sorry, but I didn't measure the final length of the plug wires I made. Talyn's measurements sound pretty good/close. If you are cutting your own wires, then they will be a bit different depending on where you mount your Ignition Coil and how you'd like to run them.

If you're thinking about doing this modification, I'd HIGHLY recommend it!
 
Did I miss something here? What do you do with the factory distributor? Cap it? Any pictures or explanation on how your PCM is calculating which coil needs to fire and when?
 
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