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R.E. Lift Hardware Q.

PstrKd4BrthCntrll

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Chicago
Am I right to assume that if the kit didnt come with all new bolts I'll have to use my existing bolts? Would it be in my best interest to go and buy all new bolts for the ones that arent replaced in the kit?
Also, whats the best way to remove the bolts? Breaker/cheater bar or air tools? Which will have a lower risk of breaking the bolts off?
I'm installing it at school cause they have tools and car lifts that I dont.
I start installing my 5" DPG/R.E. lift on monday... Wish me Luck
My new setup is gonna be
5"DPG/R.E.
4 Bilstein 5150's 12" travel with 255/70 valving
-Jks Bar Pin Eliminators
CxC4 Front tow Hooks
HomeFab Front Tube Bumper[I need to weld tabs for 150W KC Daylighters]
 
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Pay special attention to the upper shock bolts in the rear. Mine snapped off so easy you would think they were made of lead. That is a common problem. I would recomend using impact sockets with your cheater bar on the larger bolts. I split open a regular socket (craftsman) trying to loosen the bolts on one of my front LCA. That was after about three weeks of using PB blaster on everything.
 
Does your DPG/RE come with the HD/Adujustable Track bar and HD mount for it?

Just curious, I have the standard one, and I think it's popping at low speed turns. I tightened everything on the front end last night, still popping.

Good luck with all that wrenching.
 
Start spraying those bolts with some Liquid Wrench NOW! This will help you get those bolts off much easier on Monday.
 
I've been spraying my bolts for just over a month now. I use a combo of PB and the Foam Liquid Wrench. I like the foam Liquid wrench cause it oozes out of the nozzle. Thus you can use the little red straw and get the transfer case stud bolt on the unside.

the kit came with an adjustable track bar[RE 1660] and a new Track bar mount[RE 1665]
I've read all about the upper rear shock bolts...
 
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