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Powertrax no-slip installation

Sounds like an active spacer tab, I drove mine with a broken tab for about a week. I wouldn't recommend it, if the other side fails then you are sol.

When you install the new active spaces be very careful with the active spacer tabs, and DO NOT force the center pin in. as you probably cracked the tab and then it finally broke driving around town. I got a replacement active spacer from Jegs and it had the slot, I just filled it with RVT to keep the C-clip in place.
 
My original PowerTrax instructions "forgot" to mention that you need to rotate the second half of the body 180 degrees before insertion. It took me hours to figure out what was wrong because I KNEW I was reading it right.
That might be why I got such a good deal on it used with the tab broken off.

The PowerTrax is probably the BEST investment made on the 2 wd. '96. Getting stuck on grass is embarrassing in a Cherokee. Now I can have one rear wheel a foot off the ground and not even know it.

Mike
 
PhotographerMike said:
My original PowerTrax instructions "forgot" to mention that you need to rotate the second half of the body 180 degrees before insertion. It took me hours to figure out what was wrong because I KNEW I was reading it right.
That might be why I got such a good deal on it used with the tab broken off.

The PowerTrax is probably the BEST investment made on the 2 wd. '96. Getting stuck on grass is embarrassing in a Cherokee. Now I can have one rear wheel a foot off the ground and not even know it.

Mike
Click to expand...

I did not always find the directions explicit and clear either. "Turn driver's side wheel and hold against driveline" when taken literally sounds quite impossible.

Right now my outlook on the product is not super sunny and cheerful. Kind of wish I'd just gone with a full regear job with Detroit truetracs f/r and gotten everything done that I need to eventually do anyway.
 
whitexj98 said:
I am really interestend in what you find, I have had my no slip for 4 years now and havent had a single issue. When I regeared about 6 months ago I was having trouble getting the pin back in and "tapped" on it pretty hard.
Click to expand...

OK, I appreciate everyone's input too. I have too much going on to get to opening up my diff until about Thursday. I will update when I have more info.
 
Rod Knee said:
I did not always find the directions explicit and clear either. "Turn driver's side wheel and hold against driveline" when taken literally sounds quite impossible.

Right now my outlook on the product is not super sunny and cheerful. Kind of wish I'd just gone with a full regear job with Detroit truetracs f/r and gotten everything done that I need to eventually do anyway.
Click to expand...

Not sure what your thinking here since True-tracs are limited slip.
FWIW,Ive had my 8.25" No-Slip for 10yrs now,I wheel the hell out of it and its still going strong!
 
Update:

On Monday I talked to tech support at Ptrax. The guy I spoke with was articulate and candid which I appreciated. After detailing my circumstance he indicated that it was probable that I would have to cut part of the locker out with a torch. With that likelihood being the case, I’ve decided to take apart the differential next Tuesday at a friend’s shop since he is a skilled mechanic and has a torch, which I do not have, nor do I have the skill to use one.

Hopefully enough of the device will be unimpacted by the removal so that I can inform those of you that are interested as to what part(s) were defective and/or damaged during the installation. In the event that the locker cannot be removed, I have made a contingency plan to install a new axle assembly. I have a line on a 29 spline C8.25 which would constitute an upgrade over my 27 spline C8.25.

The locker is not going back into my axle. I have no reason to think a second installation won’t be as problematic as the first one. If this locker can fail in the first 20 miles after installation, it can fail sometime I am out in the boonies where I really need for it to work properly. If Powertrax will supply me replacement(s) for defective part(s) I will be selling the locker on Ebay as a used unit. If not I’ll sell it for scrap if I can. I am done fooling around with this product.

For those of you for which this product has worked out, I say more traction to you.
 
Just because you had an installation "snafu", this is a good locker. I've had mine in for approximately 20,000 miles, and the only problem I've had was man-made.

The instructions suck, and it'll take sometime and some wrench throwing to get it out w/o the torch. You want to talk about frustrating, I replaced the first one I broke and ended up breaking the other side. But, I had already sanded, filed, and de-burred the c-clips for any future ventures inside the locker.
 
So what do you think you did to break the paddle?

I installed one in my 29-spline last night and yes, the instructions are horribly outdated. WTF? Why would they significantly update/change the product and not update the already confusing directions? It is good my friend installed one a few years ago because he faintly remembered having to ignore some steps. I also had to have my couplers 180 degrees turned from where they say. The pin was a bit hard to get in but a couple hits with the palm of my hand got it in there.

Seems to be working so far, I hope it doesn't break because I have a run Saturday!
 
I too have broken the tab when I installed the NS into my 8.8. I caught it though before I did any driving. The instructions were somewhat vague. Worked great for the 3-4K I used it before the E-Locker went in.
 
We got the no-slip out last Tuesday. No torch cutting was needed and the c-clips came out without much trouble. It was the paddle/tab/ear (whatever you want to call it) on the passenger side spacer that had broken.

Put my spider and side gears back in for the time being. I was honest with Powertrax and told the rep I talked to about tapping the center pin...he did not warranty the broken part so I'll have to get a new one to either sell the locker as a complete unit or do another installation attempt. I was pretty straightforward in telling him that the instructions were vague at best and assurred him that there had been no amendment to the instructions included in my package as he said there had been.

Nevertheless I've mellowed out a bit and am considering another installation attempt. This would be the thread for anyone with additional details about getting stubborn center pins to slide into place to chime in.
 
Last edited:
http://www.drivetrain.com/parts_cat...lation_guide.html#PreparationofPartstobeinsta

Step 11 is the one that most folks miss, skip, or just don't do correctly. Getting the teeth aligned properly makes the rest fairly straight forward.

I'd suggest putting everything together on the bench first and scribing a line in the across the various outer surfaces to aide in assembly in the axle. It makes it easier to maintain proper component orientation when your elbow deep in the housing.
 
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