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(Picture)Advice PLEASE long arm or ? what else?

2 questions/comments
First, I though that on the TNT kit you had to weld the sleeves thru the unibody frame to the frame and when the kit came out that only TNT would do it, but they may have changed some things.
Second, how would extending the sway bar disconnect buy you anything more than positioning the sway bar further up in the wheel well, because its the torsional stiffness of the sway bar what actually resists body roll.

Please educate me.
 
GroversXJ said:
2 questions/comments
First, I though that on the TNT kit you had to weld the sleeves thru the unibody frame to the frame and when the kit came out that only TNT would do it, but they may have changed some things.
Second, how would extending the sway bar disconnect buy you anything more than positioning the sway bar further up in the wheel well, because its the torsional stiffness of the sway bar what actually resists body roll.

Please educate me.
Rock Yacht makes the TNT kit, so if he says it completely bolt on they must be.

Longer disco's mean better geometry which will hopefully keep the the SB outta the springs and be less likely to rip the SB mounting bolts outta the frame.

BTDT
 
No. You can run the drop brackets with stock upper and lower arms. Thats what im doing at about 7" of lift. BUT.....you HAVE to take it in for an alignment once you install them if youre running stock arms. Because the caster will be way out, they have shims they can fix that with. The drop brackets are friggin awesome!!! They make the jeep ride like its not even lifted. I swear!
 
I have the RE drop brackets. Right now i have no braces on my XJ, but im building some of my own. I couldnt justify spending like 75 bucks on something i could build in about 20 minutes. On the MJ, there arent any brackets for the braces so i think the braces are more for just EXTRA strength. I think they will work fine without the braces.

heres a pic of them before i installed the caster sleeves.
97xj001.jpg
 
GroversXJ said:
2 questions/comments
First, I though that on the TNT kit you had to weld the sleeves thru the unibody frame to the frame and when the kit came out that only TNT would do it, but they may have changed some things.
Second, how would extending the sway bar disconnect buy you anything more than positioning the sway bar further up in the wheel well, because its the torsional stiffness of the sway bar what actually resists body roll.

Please educate me.


Nope completely bolt on. I just installed it on my heep and love it. it is mounted solid and this thing is well built. Plus the Bob and Matt at TnT are great answered all my question.
 
GroversXJ said:
2 questions/comments
First, I though that on the TNT kit you had to weld the sleeves thru the unibody frame to the frame and when the kit came out that only TNT would do it, but they may have changed some things.

Please educate me.

The Y-Link Radius Arm Kit is 100% bolt on with no welding required.

Drop Brackets will correct your suspension geometry to stock.

The Y-Link kit gives you a full belly pan, 1" drop in the T-case to improve correct your DS angle, high-clearance arms, the ability to run lock to lock without having your tires/wheels rub your LCA's...yada, yada, yada.

The best way to decide what kit to get for your rig is to decide what features you'd like and need. Price is always important but in most cases, the less expensive kits won't be feature rich. What most people don't see is what they're going to end up paying over time. Going from one kit to another may end up costing you more than doing it once right.

My opinion is and has always been, do it once right. Save an extra week or month and get what you really want. You'll be happier more quickly and you'll end up saving in the long run. As most of us know, money saved can be put in other places (and that's not such a bad thing to tell the wife/husband when you're jusifying the higher initial expense).

Matt
 
Martinida said:
Rock Yacht makes the TNT kit, so if he says it completely bolt on they must be.
I must have understood it wrong.
Martinida said:
Longer disco's mean better geometry which will hopefully keep the the SB outta the springs and be less likely to rip the SB mounting bolts outta the frame.
I'll buy that they keep the sway bar further up away from the springs, but it wont make the rig have less body roll.
ECKSJAY said:
B) Those swaybar endlinks are WAY too short...which makes your swaybar less effective.
How does it make it less effective?
Regardless of where his sway bar is, I'd think that having the sway bar ends parallel to the ground would make the most effecient transfer of any sway loads, similar in idea to keeping you control arms parellel to the ground for the best ride.
 
If he had the right sized shocks there would probably be a lot less body roll. If 3-4" material were added to his SB links it would be closer to parallel. It might make them easier to use and he wouldn't have to waste money on new ones. Cause it obvious he needs to spend the money in other places.
 
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