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Performance Electric Radiator Fan Options

To true on the tranny building heat. I usually steer folks to get that first before spending big cash on a new rad set. My AW4 would heat up fast on the rocks and towing the boat. I cannot say which did more for my rig, the new rad or separate tranny cooler.
 
To true on the tranny building heat. I usually steer folks to get that first before spending big cash on a new rad set. My AW4 would heat up fast on the rocks and towing the boat. I cannot say which did more for my rig, the new rad or separate tranny cooler.

That is so correct. I was thinking of routing the trans fluid back to the rad but I think I'm going to skip that and get a bigger trans cooler.
 
Update:
Last Friday I decided to do a little something to figure out some of my overheating problems. I was stuck in Friday afternoon rush hour traffic and took me about 1 hr. 45mins to get home (12.5 miles). My dash temp gauge read around 220* for 45 minutes with the AC on Hi then over heated. As soon as I turned the AC off within 3 minutes the temp went backt o the 210* mark. Again, this is in stop and go traffic, having to sit through up to 3 red light cycles before I could move, etc.
What I did was I brought with me a digital bbq temp gauge just to get temps as much as I could. During my commute I was taking outside ambient temp reading from my window. As soon as I got home, I took temp readings all over.

The dash gauge reading while I was sitting in traffic:
20130726_141447_zps0bf59538.jpg


Outside temp:
20130726_143605_zpsdf8736cf.jpg


Engine bay temp:
20130726_144030_zps57a7c06f.jpg


Hood still closed. Radiator water inlet temp (fan sensor location/pass. side)
20130726_144123_zps8d26dc0f.jpg


Hood still closed. Radiator water outlet temp (driver side).
20130726_144427_zpsfccc9817.jpg


Air temp coming from the fan closest to the radiator water inlet (pass. side).
20130726_144644_zpsdee5b568.jpg


Air temp coming from the fan closest to the radiator water outlet (driver side).
0f35cc95-a543-4eb3-aff7-c649953cdfd0_zps06c25d22.jpg


I might need to get a new temp sensor and invest in an autometer temp guage :/
Since I flushed my cooling system, I've been running with a 50/50 coolant (Peak) and I've been refilling my reservoir every few days. My oil is still looking good since I did an oil change about 3 weeks ago so I don't think I have a head leak. I think I'm going to top it off with straight coolant.

Any thoughts?
 
Last edited:
Update:
Last Friday I decided to do a little something to figure out some of my overheating problems. What I did was I brought with me a digital bbq temp gauge just to get temps as much as I could.I might need to get a new temp sensor and invest in an autometer temp guage

I find the dash gauge too hard to interpret, so I now use a ScanGuage, to monitor the OBDII bus, and a calibrated infrared thermometer for checking various parts of the cooling system. Also installed two hard-wired thermometers, one for ambient and other in the air box.
The two hard-wire thermometer came in handy when trying to lower the intake air temp. The cowl intake was the winner hands down. Insulating the bottom of the intake manifold helped too.

I found the dash gauge and ScanGuage were reading the coolant temp 15-20 degree high, compared to the thermostat housing. Bought a new OEM temperature sender and it now shows a lower temp but it's still a few degrees higher than what the infrared thermometer shows.

Also found that the intake temperature sender was way off, showing a temp, when hot, that was almost 30 higher than what the infrared thermometer showed. After replacing the intake sender, the ScanGauge now matches the infrared thermometer. The engine now runs stronger too when hot.
Makes me wonder if I have been chasing a heat problem that that doesn't exist.
 
Makes me wonder if I have been chasing a heat problem that that doesn't exist.

This is exactly what I'm feeling and what my buddies are telling me. "Thou shalt not trust thy OEM gauges" LOL.

Hopefully the Auto Meter gauges will help put this to bed. Was planning on doing it sooner or later and it might be sooner.
 
I just run a V8 Grand fan clutch. And switch for the auxillary fan.
Large cooler for the AW4
Driving miles on the beach in soft sand the temp rarely goes over 215 in the summer heat. No hood vents.
The AW4 runs 150-160 on the street and 180-200 on the beach. Read from hot line.
It will also idle with the AC on and maintain steady temp.
I understand the 4.0 does not like 3 row radiators. The passages are small and restricted compared to a 2 row. Also clog easily.
 
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