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Pahl McAllister's Pre-runner/Rock Crawler

Fun times
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we go there from time to time as well. Looks like alot of fun. I have those same 8.5" fox on my rear. getting ready to 4link the rear now with 14" coilovers into the cab :)
 
So far I love the fox shocks but the real test will be next weekend at the MORE race. I'll revalve them a few times then add the hydro bumps. As good as it will get for a while.
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looks great i cant wait to see the coilover mounting in the front its on my list for future mods!
 
so I hate to ask just because I don't want to start up the debate, but how has that D30 held up to the abuse on 35's?

I only ask because your setup is a lot like what Im hoping to do.
 
I've been forgetting to update this thread with all the plan changes and updates. First I'll answer the D30 question.

So the previous axle was LSD and stock axles. The previous owner ran it in rocks mostly...hard enough to twist a D44 rear axle spline (I replaced it a few months after I bought the Jeep). However the front axle had no issues. I drive "polite" and with a light right foot. That axle went on 8 trips with me...again no issues.

I now have an ARB and Chromo axles with three rock crawling trips and still no issues. I don't even worry about it. Sure 35" tires create more leverage than 33 BUT with the alloy rims I have my set up has less rotating mass than 33's with steel wheels.
 
The front end is going to wait. It rides okay for now so I re-focused on the rear. I bought full traction Jeepspeed leafs, rear frame plates, bump stop cans and I have the bumps...so now I have to decide if I want to do any shackle change and I'll have everything for a rear suspension rebuild!

I also have the ram, box and tabs/brackets to do front Hydro assit steering....just need the lines and to do all the work. Now I just need time to do all this! Work/Life are both busy but its been fun so no complaints. If I get off my ass I'll have pictures soon. Truth is I have too much fun driving this thing to tear it down.
 
PahlMc said:
I've been forgetting to update this thread with all the plan changes and updates. First I'll answer the D30 question.

So the previous axle was LSD and stock axles. The previous owner ran it in rocks mostly...hard enough to twist a D44 rear axle spline (I replaced it a few months after I bought the Jeep). However the front axle had no issues. I drive "polite" and with a light right foot. That axle went on 8 trips with me...again no issues.

I now have an ARB and Chromo axles with three rock crawling trips and still no issues. I don't even worry about it. Sure 35" tires create more leverage than 33 BUT with the alloy rims I have my set up has less rotating mass than 33's with steel wheels.
Click to expand...

thanks for the input! Sometimes it can be hard to determine who has actual knowledge of the subject and who's just repeating what they've read.
 
Maybe I am hallucinating, but it looks like your upper rear shock mount just goes to the floor pan? How's that holding up?
 
It is with a big washer on top. So far so good with a Barstow trip and a rock trip on it...and a few hundred street miles.

Its directly next to the old mount so its not through the floor, its the the double sheet metal if that makes sense.
 
Got it. I was wondering how those bolts will hold up to that kind of angled loading in the long term....only time will tell.
 
My guess is not well to be honest! Well the bolts will be fine, I'm guessing the sheet metal could deform. I will be re valving the shocks after most trips so it's something I will watch.
 
JohnX said:
Got it. I was wondering how those bolts will hold up to that kind of angled loading in the long term....only time will tell.
Click to expand...
I went through 2 or 3 sets of those exact bar pin adapters before giving up and fabbing my own steel mounts. In the end the real problem was getting my bump stops set to where the shock wasnt the stop. But then with 35's OP probably wont have the problem. Tire will be the bumpstop. :D
 
Right now (as best I could cycle it on a few rocks) At full articulation the shocks bottom out right before the tire rubs. And like you said the shock being the "bump" is a bad thing! Thats what ruined my stock mounts haha.

So, when I add the full traction leafs I'll take them down to just the main leaf and cycle everything to full bump and full articulation and make sure the hydrailic bump stops I'll be adding stop the up travel before the shocks bottom out....which is already before the 35's hit the body.

I'm actually getting excited to get the rear done. Even though the little center mounted shocks aren't full pre-runner status, I don't think any of this is a wasted step if I do decide to run larger shocks through the cargo area when I cage it. I'm keeping 35's so the bumps should be in the right place. One step closer to going a little faster in the dirt.

I'm guessing I'll only have 10 or 11 inches of travel, but clean travel that doesn't destroy anything is better than more travel that rips the Jeep apart right?
 
Speaking of getting my rear done, step one is the HD Off-road rear frame plates. Anyone have a recommended setting on my welder? It's a Lincoln SP-135 running flux. I'll of course test a bunch of spots, but any suggestions on where to start would help. 90% of my welding was on a tube chasis off-road car.
 
Remember when I said the shocks being a bump is bad and I will cycle everything when i put my leafs on? Well I went to Ocotillo Wells yesterday for a slow geology talk the park was putting on. When it was done we met a nice couple in a sxs who said they wanted to hit a few trails. Long stroy short I was wrong about the sheet metal holding up...it held fine but I split one of those bar pin adapters in half!

I knew I shouldn't push the Jeep until the bumps were on there but the desert got me all excited! Honestly it was soooooo fun hitting the tight washes and ending up at the 4x4 park it was all worth it. But no more desert until I get the rear done! I'll add a picture when i take the two parts off the jeep.
 
A little update. These bar pin adapters are multi purpose and have to widths. The rear requires you use the wider width. Well that leaves a very weak spot in the pin where the other hole is
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